I had the same problem with the bolt. I removed the rear seat and cut a hole in the floor above. Drilled and tapped a new hole, then welded it back up when I was done. Looks good Mike. Get some undercoat on the frame too before you end up with rust holes
I don't always drink orange juice, but when I do, I prefer to chew it. #madpulp
cut the head off the bolt and use a punch and hammer it out. Then use a piece of mechanics wire attach bolt to it and pull it through. Then I usually throw a tack on it to hold it in place
Cutting holes in your floor is stupid
1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
2001 wj tbd
1974 5 ton
You dont need to drill out the shock bolts. Take a good steel punch and hit the broken stud with that. There is a nut with 3 tack welds holding it in place. the punch will break them and you can get it out. Then you can tie some wire to a bolt and washer, feed it through from the top and drop it in. There is enough room if you have the right wrenches to get a wrench on the top of the bolt. Or you can tack that in place.
Lady bugs don't like it when you paint stripes on them
Let me know how that works out for ya, take my advice and tell them don't bother shipping it.
1. You don't ever need a drop pitman arm, it will throw your angles off a shit ton and you'll have crazy bumpsteer.
2. You're using a high steer arm, this makes it even more impossible to run! Your draglink will be going up to the axle instead of down!
Agreed. Mike don't bother with one. this is my over the knuckle steering with 5 inches of lift and stock pitman arm. your high steer arms will be the same height if not higher. plus it will throw your trac bar angle out of wack.
note: i ran that stabilizer for like 5 min, been a year or 2 without one
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