xj's gonna get a makeover

[ct67_72]

I can't wait to try them out.
I'm on a mission to see how long I can make a 30/8.25 combo live.

[ct67_72]

Next step is installing wj brakes and crossover steering.
I decided to narrow the stock wj steering and sleeve it instead of going to heims. At least for now, to save a few bucks.
Here is the difference in brakes.



knuckle with 2 bosses for tie rod and drag link



original steering



sleeved tie rod



quickie bead. Not bad for a 110 with flux core

[Zullock Holmes]

Not trying to be facetious, but What's the purpose of upgrading to a dana 44 if it's going to use dana 30 outers??

The only advantage i can see is R&P size, seems like a lot work for not alot of benefit.

[clean4drxj]

Not trying to be facetious, but What's the purpose of upgrading to a dana 44 if it's going to use dana 30 outers??

The only advantage i can see is R&P size, seems like a lot work for not alot of benefit.

He's not upgrading the axle, he was just going to run thr outters for better brakes and stronger wheelbearings but then decided it was easier to do the WJ swap, I also believe somethings fell through for him but he'll chime in.

[ct67_72]

Not trying to be facetious, but What's the purpose of upgrading to a dana 44 if it's going to use dana 30 outers??

The only advantage i can see is R&P size, seems like a lot work for not alot of benefit.

Right, thats backwards. I was originally going to use reid knuckles and 44 outers on the 30, but cant get a wheel adapter with an ID that will fit over the hubs. New rims arent in the budget, especially with rear adapters, so I decided to ditch the idea and go to wj outers. I wont have locking hubs or real wheel bearings, but I will have good brakes and crossover steering. It will be a lot easier to change axles too.

[CntStpTheStnk06]

looks sweeeeeetttttt. time to take her back to that line with the rocks and the trees on the cliff

[ct67_72]

the one near the tall trees? lol. I want to go out this weekend, if things work out I will have the knuckles all done. I dont want to go back out until I replace the steering.

[CntStpTheStnk06]

the one near the tall trees? lol. I want to go out this weekend, if things work out I will have the knuckles all done. I dont want to go back out until I replace the steering.

yup the one with the green leaves.........

[ct67_72]

Oooooooo that one, yeah we might be able to do that.

[ct67_72]

went and picked up a new set of pads and rotors, as well as a hardware kit because I was missing a spring.
I redrilled the bolt pattern to 5x4.5. You have to be careful to line up the hub opening because if the holes are off at all, the rotor wont clear the flange on the hub.
I drilled them first then used a roto-broach to make the final hole. If you have never used one and drill a lot of holes, buy a set. They are awesome.

Here is the broach









and the difference in size between the stock xj rotor, and wj rotor

[ct67_72]

well I got some work done today!
I went out side and started to dissasemble while I waited for ups to bring the hub spacers.
I got one wheel off before UPS showed up, perfect!
So I finished what I was doing and went at the hubs.
I bolted my stock hub into the WJ spindle with the spacer and tacked it in, I did this for both sides then removed the hub and welded the spacer to the knuckle



While they cooled I finished disasembly.





By the time I was done the knuckles were cool and I installed them. I then checked the drag link clearance and had to cut off the pass side sway bar mount, which I dont use anyway.
While doing this I found out I didnt shorten it enough, and also, that with the drag link bolted in the pitman arm, the drag link would only drop about 4" before binding, I have heard this but didnt think it would be so bad.
So I started to think, looked around the garage and decided to try something out.
The stock drag link OD is about the same as the ID of the WJ drag link, so I removed the adjuster collar from the oem drag link and cut the threaded end off. I ground it down until it fit inside with some persuasion, and welded it home





So this shortened up the drag link, and also now with it attached to the pitman arm, it will drop all the way to the ground.

So my next step was to install the rotors and calipers. I found out that I have a 2000 hub on one side and a mid 90's hub on the other, meaning one side caliper bracket had to be shimmed out and one did not. I will replace the older one with another soon. For now its fine.
Once I got the calipers on I mounted a wheel and checked for clearance, there are 2 spots on the caliper that are "high" that needed to be ground down. So I ground them down and anything that was close, literally about 1-2 minutes a side of work





Once that was all set I installed the tie rod



and figured out how to install the steering damper. I had an old bracket from a d60 that clamped the tie rod, so I modified it and mounted it



Then I set the toe, centered the wheel and went for a ride!
Boy even without the brakes seated yet, it stops so much better. I locked up the iroks coming in the driveway no problem.
I have to drive it some more and get everything broken in and re checked now.

[Dirtyjeep92]

im am so jealous right now

[Dirtyjeep92]

Great work though!

[ct67_72]

Thanks man! There is a HUGE difference, it actually stops like a normal vehicle.
I just got back from running around with it and the calipers like to stick, which is apparently very common with the teves calipers, so Im gonna run down to napa tomorrow and pick up a set of akebonos to replace them.

[clean4drxj]

Looks great! I'm assuming the next purchase is heim crossover steering?, either way I'm sure your brakes work mint now.