Originally posted by grundlepunch
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Grundle Jeep
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Originally posted by fizzyor am asians pants not a read end lol.Originally posted by DizzDizzaliens probed my husband
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Dana, have you ever gave any thought to starting with an LJ frame? You were talking about stretching it before and from the builds I've read it seems like a pretty cool idea. I saw a thread I believe somewhere on JF that some guy took an LJ, and cut down his tub to be exactly in spec with a TJ tub, then cut off the remaining frame that hung off the backside and patched the ends. I believe the body mounting points are the same and it's fairly straightforward as far as fabrication.
I'll search for that build, standby.
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You really can't beat $300 for a frame especially if there is no rot on it. I'm not too familiar with back-halfing but if you weld the back half on I just wouldn't bother. You'll have a weak spot around the welds. If that is the way you go I would honestly do a dye-penetrate test on it to try to find any spots that were weakened due to the welding.I don't always drink orange juice, but when I do, I prefer to chew it. #madpulp
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Originally posted by ninetysix-ex-jay View PostYou really can't beat $300 for a frame especially if there is no rot on it. I'm not too familiar with back-halfing but if you weld the back half on I just wouldn't bother. You'll have a weak spot around the welds. If that is the way you go I would honestly do a dye-penetrate test on it to try to find any spots that were weakened due to the welding.Originally posted by Ktmracer419some people choose video games
some choose projects
some choose welding random things together
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I think part of it depends on if you plan to stretch. This would be a perfect time beacause you can just plate the bad spots and do what you need to to the rear of the frame to get it stretched.
Originally posted by grundlepunch View Postfound a full 6cyl tj frame out of a 2001 (clean too) for $300
now do i replace the whole frame? or do i just cut out the section i need and patch it in? i would cut my frame at the start of the tub (both sides) and drop it out while supporting the tub and tranny. i would then cut the downer frame to match, line it up via the body mount bolts and weld/fishplate. my roomate did the exact same thing to his yj and it came out good.
the later option seems easier to me.... opinions anyone?88 YJ...kinda. Clayton Hard Arms, V8, 1 tons w/Detroits, twin sticked T-18/NP205, Irok's, MasterCrafts, fuel cell, multi-colored
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Originally posted by grundlepunch View Postyou would do the full frame swap??? im just worried about how long that would take with brake/fuel lines, steering box, re bleed everything....
one good thing about doing a full frame swap is i could do all the link mounts/shock hangers while the frame is off and it would be super easy.
oh and1950 Willys Trail Rig
2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4
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well, took the jeep to my parents house on Saturday. its not in a garage where i can work on it (though its a ways away from me). going to start choppin and grinding the tub for the stretch and prepping the frame for the cut.
i have a set of xj leafs that i got for free (thanks sam) and im debating if i should just throw those on the rear and get daves rear axle (44 with 4:56 and a detroit) and try to sell mine to get some money."when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"
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Originally posted by grundlepunch View Postwell, took the jeep to my parents house on Saturday. its not in a garage where i can work on it (though its a ways away from me). going to start choppin and grinding the tub for the stretch and prepping the frame for the cut.
i have a set of xj leafs that i got for free (thanks sam) and im debating if i should just throw those on the rear and get daves rear axle (44 with 4:56 and a detroit) and try to sell mine to get some money.You better decide if you are hanging on the cross, or banging in the nails
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Originally posted by XJLI View Postgoing to leaves is such a cop out IMHO. yea its easy, cheap, and can work well, but the advantages of a proper link setup are worlds above what you can ever ask out of leaves.
im going to cut my link brackets off and mock them up and see how everything looks first. I'm going to weigh my options here
its going to boil down to how much of the frame arch im going to have to notch to mount my coil buckets flat and if i then have room to french in the shock mounts.
when i relocated my coil buckets b4 OERII, i moved them as far back as i could without notching and it only allowed maybe 2" of stretch. so its going to be tight, and im not sure if i want to cut the arch out and put in a straight run of box tube. that would run into issues with rear body mounts ect.
so if i see its going to be a PITA to move the rear back ~ 5" w/ coils, then im just going to put shackle mounts on the rear bumper and throw some leafs on dat' bitch... ya dig?Last edited by grundlepunch; 11-02-2009, 02:16 PM."when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"
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