My 1950 Willys Trail Rig

[Jeepbonehead]

what are inside those axles or yours? gears, diff, shafts?

[OWEN]

what are inside those axles or yours? gears, diff, shafts?

4.56 gears, front welded (probably an ARB later on), detroit rear, front is narrowed to 63" WMS with 1541H alloy shafts, rear has a disc brake conversion, both are shaved. I run a NP435 and a D20 with a tera-low gear set and my crawl ratio is about 100:1


I want to definately go to an ARB front, and maybe some lower ring and pinions eventually. Its nice to do it all at once, but for me I do not have an endless budget, and I like working on it. So I left some things to do. Anyone who thinks this is a high dollar build is way wrong. I have spent more than I wanted but still nothing compared to what is out there. I have more repect for rigs built on a budget.

[Jeepbonehead]

wow do i hear you, every time i buy something i'm like i deffinitly didn;t plan on this, also why i have left things on mine to do

[OWEN]

I spent way too much time on getting aggrivated with the exhuast this weekend. Nothing was done, except putting pieces of tubing different place to try to get an idea. I couldnt come up with anything good, especially since the headers exit in a shitty spot.

The more I thought about it, the more mad I got. Today I made some calls after work. I got Steve from Advance Adapters on the phone and he was very knowledgable. I told him I was putting a 4.3 in a Flatfender and wanted to use their in frame headers. "They will not work for 2 reasons...1) The manual steering shaft... 2) Frame mounted clutch pedal." I told him more about my jeep and he said I should be ok since I eliminated both of those factory "limitations"

So next week sometime I should see these

And yes I got them in Nickle Plated for bling factor to compete with all of Shane's bling Hopefully I wont have to modify them

[OWEN]

I worked on it a little friday and saturday. My brother came to visit and we tried to get the clutch to work. Bleed the system at every point, extended the release rod, clutch still wouldn't release. Looks like maybe an alignment problem between the chevy bellhousing and ford transmission. Pulled the trans and transfer case yesterday, hopefully get it figured out today and put back in...

[netrachamp1853]

hey let me know when ur gonna see if it all works ill stop by

[OWEN]

hey let me know when ur gonna see if it all works ill stop by

Finished today, still doesn't work and the cherokee has a cracked head.... little disgusted today, but at least I got a new job

[Jeepbonehead]

pics required now must see, detailed picks of exaust very curious

[OWEN]

The headers have not arrived yet. Maybe tomorrow

This is the conversion guide that I used to fit my chevy BH on the Ford transmission. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/ford_to_gm.htm

I removed the transmission and cleaned the surfaces between the transmission and BH faces, thinking there was an alignment problem. The clutch releases fine with just the bellhousing bolted to the engine without the transmission, once the transmission is installed, it does not release. I am starting to think I did not cut the input bearing retainer short enough and it is pushing the clutch disc into the flywheel. Either way it is coming out again

[Jeepbonehead]

that sucks, you'll figure it out though

[OWEN]

I figured out why my clutch wasnt disengaging: not enough spline on the input shaft, the input shaft was jamming the clutch disc into the flywheel. If you don't understand this, that is ok, it is hard to explain without pics. I spent hours on the phone with Centerforce, Novak, AA, Napa, Summit, etc with no solution. Finally I went to a local machine shop to see if they could add more splines to my input shaft and they said they have dealt with this before on S10's they just grind 1/8" off the clutch hub with a hand grinder , but he says they put 400hp to them wth no problem.

My headers came in, they look good. Hopefully I can snap some pics today

[OTTE]

At least you figured it out.

[OWEN]

Here is whats up. Maybe you can see now how the splines end on the input shaft and the clutch disc can't slide any farther back



I measured from the face of the pilot bushing towards the rear of the jeep with the clutch assembly bolted to the flywheel... ~2.125" from the face to the back of the clutch disc hub... but only 2" of spline. Here was the solution
Start




I originally wanted to add more spline to the input shaft but the machine shop I went to assured me this would be fine, and there is still plenty of spline engagement. Put the transmission back in and it seems to work this time. I'll know by the end of the weekend

Headers
I put them on with the trans out of the jeep and I thought they fit well

Reinstall the trans

Driver side header points right at the slave cylinder. I am just going to mod the driver side

[OWEN]

Headers

Interference
Here is a pic of the slave cylinder bolted on. The bellhousing is a Chevy Truck Bellhousing with factory hyd clutch. The slave is a 80-85 Jeep CJ7 6/8 cylinder slave. After looking at some pictures and a couple trips to the parts store, I was able to figure out that this slave bolts to the Chevy bellhousing with no modification necesary. As far as I a know I am the first person to do this


Dump
The header dumps right where the slave cylinder is




Goal
I want the header to dump farther forward and closer to the frame.

Start
Clamp header in vise. Grind down welds on the collector cone and slide off. This took over an hour



Next I will grind down the welds that join the three tubes, and bolt the header on and bend each tube to where I want them

[grundlepunch]

damn, lots o work man.

on my friends 318 in a YJ swap he ran into the same problem. so he used 2 passenger side headers so on the drivers side it dumped in front, then just custom routed it. would that work in this application? i looks like it would dump infront of the motor mount??