My 1950 Willys Trail Rig

[Riot]

That thing was a wild ride, almost uneventful just driving up rock faces and whatnot.

[OWEN]

pics plz.

My friend took a few but I haven't seen them yet

[OWEN]

Tackled the braking today... It stopped but the pedal started out low and almost hit the floor before there was any braking action. Keep in mind I swapped the pedals and brake booster from a 1981 CJ7 and fabbed my own firewall which turned out great except the pushrod on the pedal needed to be lengthened. I wound up making an adjustable pushrod... pretty simple and works great.

Second, I am running a master cylinder from a 79 Chevy Corvette. If anyone here needs is using my pics as a reference don't, because I had my lines hooked up backwards! On the Corvette MC the front reservior (reletive to the front of the vehicle) is larger but has a smaller port. This is for the rear brakes. The rearward, smaller reservior with the larger port is for the front brakes. Needless to say it stops a lot better now and I haven't bled it yet.

I priced out the hardware for my beadlocks from a few local hardware stores. I can get everything for around $50 from Church and Morse in Meriden. They have the best hardware prices in the area hands down. Thats 128 grade 5 2" 3/8 Bolts, 128 nylock 3/8 nuts, and 256 washers. Most offroad shops want $100 for the hardware, Fastenal wanted $109. Probably going to start on those pretty soon as well as my OBA setup

[OWEN]

Been driving the piss out of it on the street and wheeling the hell out of it as much as I can. Here is a couple things I have been working on.

Beadlocks.
I ordered a kit from A-Z Fabriaction a while ago and I finally got a couple extra rims. I switched out 2 rims on my jeep to use the rims on it to made the bead locks

Start
These wheels came off of an 80's Chevy pickup, they are 16x6.5 with 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern

Clean the lip of the rim with a grinding wheel/wire brush, as this is where it will be welded

Fit the innner ring "within the lip," make sure it it centered

Since my wheels were narrow to begin with, i needed to notch out a spot for the tire valve stem to be filled with air. Then I tacked the wheel in 8 spots, and groud the lip flush with the ring.

Then weld the bitches up!



They need to be ground smooth. A 7" flap disc works nice. You can fix a 7" flap disc on a 4.5" grinder with no guard just watch your fingers.



Paint and bolt the bitches up!


I have two done, when I install the other two I will try to snap some pics of assembling the beadlocks with the tires, I learned a couple tricks as I went.

[OWEN]

Driveshafts.

Here is one and only one wheeling pic in this build thread.


It wasn't bad, I got out to take the pic and look at my line, got back in and tried it. The front wheels came off a little and when it came down the point of the rock hit my front shaft.



Moral of the story is: Carry a spare!

I actually had a spare for the front I threw in, and here is a spare I made for the rear:

[netrachamp1853]

Haha, yup..yeah..driveshaft's fucked....owell..i can get out of here in 2wd..its time for a drink..

[netrachamp1853]

http://hartford.craigslist.org/for/1450764513.html

you want it

[Jeepbonehead]

nice beadlocks, finally so wheeling pics!! now if i could do the same

[OWEN]

nice beadlocks, finally so wheeling pics!! now if i could do the same

There are some more wheeling pics on my facebook page. As a respect to this forum I try to keep only build related pictures in this section

[OWEN]

Rejected the front shaft again today... this time it grenaded at the splines.

Bead locks worked nice, wheeled all day @4psi front 3psi rear

[Mike]

ive seen custom cv driveshafts made out of box tubing that are beefy as fuck. if its not driven on the road it might be good for your application.

[XJtheXtremeJeep]

or if you have selectable hubs up front you can run a super beefy shaft and not have to worry about balancing it

[Jeepbonehead]

should talk to high angle dirveline they make some beefy stuff

[OWEN]

ive seen custom cv driveshafts made out of box tubing that are beefy as fuck. if its not driven on the road it might be good for your application.

My friend runs this, male and female reciever tubes, 1/4" wall. Too heavy for me to abandon a conventional driveshaft yet.

or if you have selectable hubs up front you can run a super beefy shaft and not have to worry about balancing it

I have been building my own shafts for years. I spin them on a flat surface to check for runout. I retube a shaft if I bend it. I run locking hubs and twin sticks, I can completely disconnect my front end

should talk to high angle dirveline they make some beefy stuff

I have wheeled with some people running expensive drive shafts, always needing a spotter to watch it on rocks seems like a headache. They are going to take a beating. This one cost me 100 bucks and 5 bucks to retube it once. I am going to cut a hole in my floor so I can change it easier.

[Even]

How much backspacing are you running with those wheels?

Looks good mang!