Project "Swapped"

[justtorchit]

i doubt ur coils are bad...but you can always give em to me if you think that. whats your caster like?

i bet the axle is to far back and caster is off.

and you only had 3 arms in? like 1 side was a y link and teh other was just the lower?
i woulda been scared shitless to see that and a stock little tiny bolt holding ur axle in on the upper arm

[HeavyMetal]

drivers side is perfect and the wheelbase is the same on each side, i believe 124"

now thats a long XJ

[justtorchit]

Doesn't look that bad from this angle, but the coil is pretty much shot. Gonna order a pair of 5.5 in RE coils for a decent price and then swap em in. While im at it im gonna put in the fourth control arm, cause the axle is rotated so much, the driver side doesn't extend enough. Pucks got added to the front so i don't crush anymore fenders, might throw a 4th puck per side in.

im trying to gain a better picture in my head.
Your saying ur axle is rotated so much. (as in the pinion is pointed upward? meaning your caster is way off? wonders over the road?)
why does the arm on the passanger side fit but not the drivers side? (welded tabs in wrong spot? seams like things are not lined up right?)

not trying to be a dick but it seams like the front suspension is not set up right to me

[LittleD]

Will i meant 104

Okay, made some measurements, the pass side (bent coil side) is deff shorter than the drivers side, the lower measures 31 eye to eye on the pass side while the drivers measures to 32 eye to eye, what should the wheelbase be on this? i measured 104 on a buddys xj so i went off that. Im thinking that i might set the wheelbase, adjust the lowers to where they should be, and might just cut off the upper brackets and start over with that.

Would 1 inch on the lower make it bend that much? what do other systems measure out to on the lower arm?.


Next time this gets worked on, its getting done on a lift, the floor jack isn't helping with all this shit

[justtorchit]

Will i meant 104

Okay, made some measurements, the pass side (bent coil side) is deff shorter than the drivers side, the lower measures 31 eye to eye on the pass side while the drivers measures to 32 eye to eye, what should the wheelbase be on this? i measured 104 on a buddys xj so i went off that. Im thinking that i might set the wheelbase, adjust the lowers to where they should be, and might just cut off the upper brackets and start over with that.

Would 1 inch on the lower make it bend that much? what do other systems measure out to on the lower arm?.




Next time this gets worked on, its getting done on a lift, the floor jack isn't helping with all this shit

okay, im gonna try and help ya thru this and get it set up a little better.
dont worry to much about wheelbase., i like to extend them about an inch when running 35s anyways. the most crucial thing is if its all lined up right.....

first get yourself in the right ballpark... an inch diffrence on the lowers is not right. they should both be the same length.

is your crossmember strait? take a tape measure and take a measurement from a good reference point, something like the leafspring bolt to the eye of the lower arm bolt on the crossmember.
make sure that is right first. if its and 1/8 or 3/16ths of, no biggy but no more than a quarter inch id say(you can get it aligned exactly with the johnny joints after).

now thats lined up, get the lower arms the same length, and the wheel centered in the wheel well.... if you wana stick with 104 than go for it. but i would once again measure off a good reference point.
you should try to keep the diffrence of length in teh arms less than a quarter inch again (you can make up the differnce in the joints).

no that you should have the right wheelbase and equal size arms, time to set teh caster.... dont worry about you pinion angle, just make sure the caster is set to about negative 6-7. use a angle finder right off the balljoint. meaning the knuckles should tilt back six degrees . by doing this your spring perches should be levelish and your springs should look better.

now set your upper arms so the axle keeps that -6 degrees caster. if you have to cut the tabs off on teh lower arms then do it.

also dont worry bout doing it on a lift cuz your gonna wana do it on level ground anyways at ride height.

in teh end you should be able to measure off a reference point to the lower control arm bolts on the axle and they should be the same distance on both sides.

ask if ya got any questions, that should give ya a good start.....

just remember to measure and keep measuring.

im also not sure or understand what you men by 1 inch making it bend that much. (the spring?) the arms should be almost exactly the same length.

and plz plz plzzzzz, get that other upper arm on asap. those little 10 mil bolts holding the uppers on are to small in my opinion with both arms, never mind just a single bolt holding that axle in place.

[LittleD]

The wheelbase is shorter on the pass side, so that means the axle is pulled back towards that side correct? hint why it wonders to the pass side when i let go of the wheel?


I tried getting the upper in, but it extends to much to be safely bolted in

Tips for adjusting the arms? when i tried doing the caster before, i had to use a jack, and a block of wood to rotate the axle down, and it still wouldn't go enough

[justtorchit]

The wheelbase is shorter on the pass side, so that means the axle is pulled back towards that side correct? hint why it wonders to the pass side when i let go of the wheel?


I tried getting the upper in, but it extends to much to be safely bolted in

Tips for adjusting the arms? when i tried doing the caster before, i had to use a jack, and a block of wood to rotate the axle down, and it still wouldn't go enough

Idk why you would have any problem getting the upper arm in. It adjustable right? just adjust it till it fits. That or ya welded the tabs in the wrong spots.

Just do it like I said. Get crossmember strait. Get arms the same length. Get ur wheelbase set in the ballpark and measure from a reference point to the lower control arm bolts. Get those exact.... take uppers right out, set the caster. Adjust n Bolt the uppers in.... if it dosent fit right then the upper tabs were welded in wrong or something

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Listen to Andy, hes giving you good pointers. Do the lowers first, that holds in the axle and caster can be set by the uppers. Why is one arm so short, didn`t you build this? I think my lower arms are 30" but its a Clayton kit and it depends on where the arms mount in the crossmember. 1" difference is pretty freaking big.

Honestly, we`re just trying to help but I`m really having a hard time picturing the set up and from the pics you gave, its not helping. Please do us a favor and go outside and take pictures of the links and how its attached. Someone may be able to tell if the links are in the wrong place by looking but the description isn`t making sense especially why the passanger side link doesn`t fit. All you have is room on that side and no interferience

[LittleD]

Well, i got to work on the jeep today, took the lowers out, did my tranny mount which was completely collapsed. Set both arms at 32" from eye to eye which made the axle straight. Since my drivers side coil was straight and the pass was arched, i unbolted the passenger shock, used the engine crane to pull it up by the bumper, and WA LAA the coil was bent, there was a arch right in the midde. Spun it a bit, set it back down and now it sits fine.

Went to put the other upper in......Stolen out of the jeep sometime within the last week cause it's gone. Tore apart my room, garage, shed, racing trailor, other vehicles. No where to be found.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

I refuse to post again until pics are taken because I dont understand what the hell you're doing and can't wrap my head around that link not fitting.

[LittleD]

The drivers side one would have to extened to where it is loose on the threads, the passenger side would have to compensate and shorten up some to get the other within adjustability

[LittleD]

Bump:

Xmember got welded to angle iron and bolted through the unibody

The engine build is going smooth so far, droping the block/head off to get boiled out, crank, rods, and pistons are getting cleaned up next week.

This all got inspired due to the headgasket leaking oil all around the block.

Gonna be throwin this in to get more torque and hopefully save some on gas.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K68-232-4/

[LittleD]

Hmmm, i have a opportunity to get a d44 out of a early model bronco, coil setup with a drivers side drop for $100

Waiting on all the details like wms and gearing

[clean4drxj]

Hmmm, i have a opportunity to get a d44 out of a early model bronco, coil setup with a drivers side drop for $100

Waiting on all the details like wms and gearing

76 and down is Ideally what you'd want, and you'll probabley have to regear it reguadless.

[LittleD]

Got some of the pics and the specs. High Pinion, complete knuckle to knuckle. From knuckle to knuckle it is 54 inches, how much different would this be than the 30? im looking at the jeep specs thread and not sure what i should compare it to.