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  • 8.8 front axle?

    As many of you know, the 8.8 is a common rear axle swap for Jeep because of the ability to retain the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern. What I realized, is that there isn't a whole lot of options to upgrade the front axle(D44/etc.), unless you run custom shafts in the 8.8.

    Not a big deal, but it got me to thinking, what about an 8.8 front axle? I remember reading about it somewhere, but with a bunch of searching I came up with nothing.

    I don't know a whole lot about this subject, so how exactly would you go about doing this? Is it even possible?

    The main problem I figured you would run into, is how exactly would you set up the housing to be configured for a front axle? I was under the impression you would flip the housing to high pinion, and run reverse cut gears. Now, I'm pretty sure there isn't a company that offers reverse cut 8.8 gears. Also, would flipping the housing create oiling issues?

    The other issue I came up with, would be the outers. I think I remember hearing that you can get aftermarket 8.8 rear shafts drilled for 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5 bolt patterns off the shelf. I also think, that JK's use 5 on 5 bolt patterns. So, would it be possible to use complete JK outer assembalies and have custom inner shafts made?

    Feel free to tell me I'm an idiot, it was just a thought that sprouted in my head.

  • #2
    hubs? knuckles?

    i guess you could run dana 30 knuckles and hubs with dana 30 outers attached to a custom legnth 31 spline shaft.

    all in all, way too much money, time, and effort to put into something that in the end would not really be all that spectacular.
    No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


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    • #3
      I agree with what matt said. I think it would be a lot of time and money and not really worth it. would be cool to see tho and if you make it 33 spline it would be beef

      97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.

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      • #4
        Well with enough time and money any thing could be done. I have seen 14 bolts turned into front axles. There is an ifs 8.8 that is high pinion used in the 97+ f-150s. The problem with these custom axles is if you need custom shafts made you will be paying good money for it. Honestly if you are staying under 35" tires keep a 30 with the 297s and dont lock it. I thought the deal for you was you were going 8.8 to get it wheelable sooner? I think you need to stick to one thing and go with it. I vote 30 8.8 setup
        1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
        2001 wj tbd
        1974 5 ton

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        • #5
          Originally posted by JeepBabiiXJ View Post
          hubs? knuckles?

          i guess you could run dana 30 knuckles and hubs with dana 30 outers attached to a custom legnth 31 spline shaft.

          all in all, way too much money, time, and effort to put into something that in the end would not really be all that spectacular.
          I thought about running D30 stuff, but it seems a little small/weak for a project of this magnitude.

          I only got into the basics when I was researching, I was contemplating using JK stuff from the knuckles out, just to keep it simpler. Use a 33 spline locker with custom chromo shafts, and chromo JK 32 spline stub shafts(not sure what size joints they use).

          I thought about JK stuff, because they use the 5 on 5 pattern. I'm definetly open to other suggestions.

          Originally posted by CumminsJeep View Post
          I agree with what matt said. I think it would be a lot of time and money and not really worth it. would be cool to see tho and if you make it 33 spline it would be beef
          Agreed.

          Originally posted by raze1287 View Post
          Well with enough time and money any thing could be done. I have seen 14 bolts turned into front axles. There is an ifs 8.8 that is high pinion used in the 97+ f-150s. The problem with these custom axles is if you need custom shafts made you will be paying good money for it. Honestly if you are staying under 35" tires keep a 30 with the 297s and dont lock it. I thought the deal for you was you were going 8.8 to get it wheelable sooner? I think you need to stick to one thing and go with it. I vote 30 8.8 setup
          Hmm, interesting about the high pinion 8.8.

          You are correct, the next step is 297's open.

          And, to everyone above, I completely understand the time/money factor. This isn't something that is an immediate project, because I know for sure it's not something I can afford right now. If I decide to go this route, it won't be for quite some time.

          It was just an idea that came into my mind for a future project. Obviously, something with this much fab work you really want to explore all the options to find the most cost effective/simple/strongest solution. I like the idea of going outside the box, and coming up with something you don't normally see.
          Last edited by Even; 05-01-2010, 09:45 PM.

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          • #6
            All that time and money and I don't see why a Dana 44 couldn't accomplish the same thing, unless you run dana 60 outers, in which case why not rune a d 44 or 9" center.
            1950 Willys Trail Rig
            2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4

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            • #7
              the currie "9" is actually an 8.8

              and they dont reccomend it for larger than 35" tires

              nuff said
              www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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              • #8
                First off the 8.8 has way to horrible of ground clearance to run in the front and as a C-Clip axle its just not an efficient idea. You can do a D60 stronger and faaaaaar cheaper....dont get me wrong, the 8.8 is a very very stout axle, but there would be no real benefit for the magnitude of work and cost.

                There is an axle thats called a 609....i plan on building one after my XJ is fully up and running. There are many variations and many can be done far cheaper than my plan but i plan on a KOH capable rig.


                9 inch housing heavily braced or spidertrax housing (cut and modified for drivers/passenger drop)
                spidertrax c knuckles
                spidertrax outer knuckles
                spidertrax modified F450 unit bearing to accept 35 splines
                truehi9.com high pinion third member
                etc etc, you get the idea....very expensive but you get built Dana 60 strength with dana 30 clearance.
                DD - 95 F150, 302, 5 Speed, 6" Lift, & 36" TSL/Iroks

                Trail Rig (In Progress) - 97 XJ, 4.0L, AW4, 12" of Lift, Chevy 1 Tons w/35 SPLs, 39.5 Iroks, 4 Link Front, Leaf Rear, Dana 300, Exo and a bunch of other goodies

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                • #9
                  just get waggy 44's

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 1-Ton-XJ View Post
                    First off the 8.8 has way to horrible of ground clearance to run in the front and as a C-Clip axle its just not an efficient idea. You can do a D60 stronger and faaaaaar cheaper....dont get me wrong, the 8.8 is a very very stout axle, but there would be no real benefit for the magnitude of work and cost.
                    you wont need the c-clips in a front axle application either way
                    www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                      the currie "9" is actually an 8.8

                      and they dont reccomend it for larger than 35" tires

                      nuff said
                      What he said.

                      Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                      you wont need the c-clips in a front axle application either way
                      What he said.


                      I'm going through the same issue right now trying to save weight on the front axle.

                      The weak point is the outer stuff and there is nothing between weak and super strong. Not like the rears with little increments.
                      Either you got equivalent to a D30 outers or the next option is a D60 outers.

                      D30 RCV axles are supposed to be as strong as a stock D60.

                      FYI, I snapped a stock D60 outer with 35" tires and a weak 4cly.

                      Sorry but if you find a better option I would love to know.
                      RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
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                      • #12
                        True that on the c-clips and there really isnt a thing with inbetween strength...however...the toyota 8 inch axles are quite strong when braced, arb studs, cryod r&p and longfield 30 spline shafts....being a member of a yota club I have seen people run up to 39.5 Iroks on those axles and I have never seen anybody ever break a shaft or anything. http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/

                        I am running Dana 70 outers that make mine 35 spline...cut off some 60 inner c knuckles, get some dana 70 outers and you are half way there to a 609...its substantially cheaper than the spidertrax components, yet still quite strong.

                        Personally on your axles you have, I would have just upgraded to chromoly outers and kept the stock inners...you wont break a stock inner 35 spline.
                        DD - 95 F150, 302, 5 Speed, 6" Lift, & 36" TSL/Iroks

                        Trail Rig (In Progress) - 97 XJ, 4.0L, AW4, 12" of Lift, Chevy 1 Tons w/35 SPLs, 39.5 Iroks, 4 Link Front, Leaf Rear, Dana 300, Exo and a bunch of other goodies

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