btw how are those tires.... they good for rocks?
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they are sand tires, but they have good road manners, suprisingly good in the rocks actually so long as they arent wet, and they are pretty awesome in dry, powdery snow.Originally posted by clean4drxj View Postbtw how are those tires.... they good for rocks?
wet snow, mud and the rain they are a nightmare.
most of the time i have no issue with them."Watching you work on your Jeep is like watching a doctor operate on a cadaver...
It may be good practice, but in the end it won't do much good." -My Mother.
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Yeah here's the kitOriginally posted by kracker View Postditch the 4" lift? its brand new....but....the 2.5" RE is long arm?
http://rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/TJ/Lo...earRadius.aspx
and now that i look at it the control arms are longer than stock but idk if they are as long as typical stock control arms. but thats what i would do if you want it low and stable
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sense....this doesnt make much to me....explain? to me it seems youre saying they look longer than stock, but arent as long as "typical stock" arms....am i the only one confused by this?Originally posted by XJtheXtremeJeep View Postand now that i look at it the control arms are longer than stock but idk if they are as long as typical stock control arms.
97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.
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thats a lot of $$$ just for the rear! what about the front?Originally posted by XJtheXtremeJeep View PostYeah here's the kit
http://rubiconexpress.com/Jeep/TJ/Lo...earRadius.aspx
and now that i look at it the control arms are longer than stock but idk if they are as long as typical stock control arms. but thats what i would do if you want it low and stable99 XJ on tons and 40s....
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i would stay with the 4" coils and just make your long arms
i have 4.5" coils with 36" tires and i like it. when i had 3" coils on my front control arms hit the frame b4 full compression.
i've been down this road. get 44's out of a waggy (chromo shafts if you break a lot), 4.88 - 5.13 gears and detroits. 4" long arm, some triming... and MOVE THE REAR AXLE BACK b4 you get a d-shaft in the rear. move the tank in the back like i did or if you want the rear seats get a gen right tank, they are $$ but ive seen them in my friends jeep and they work good and you can move the rear back ~ 5 inches without comp cutting and you get a damn good wheelbase. oh and get a high clearance skid, the stock ones are low
after running it i would not set up my jeep with stockish wheelbase with 36" tires again. let me know if you need any other advice..
mines:

oh, and an anti-rock front sway bar does wonders for stabilityLast edited by grundlepunch; 01-06-2010, 09:24 PM."when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"
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It says theyre longer than stock but when you look in the pics they arent as long as the clayton long arms and stuff....Originally posted by CumminsJeep View Postsense....this doesnt make much to me....explain? to me it seems youre saying they look longer than stock, but arent as long as "typical stock" arms....am i the only one confused by this?
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I didn't say it was cheap lol but the Rough country one is pretty cheap....Originally posted by kracker View Postthats a lot of $$$ just for the rear! what about the front?
http://roughcountry.com/jeep_tj_2.html
and you could always make or buy control arms for that kit....
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