I still rub 4.5" and 33s but i have to cut more and adjust my control arms a little. just cut a little bit of the fender away and you will be fine. My brother had a 2 inch and 30s on his and didnt rub so thats weird that yours is
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Originally posted by HitItWithSomeSpeed View PostGo out and pick up a 6-pack, a set of cutting wheels and stop by for an afternoon. I'll get ya ready to run 37"s
anyways, i want to add another 1.5-2" of lift before winter, as soon as i figure out driveline angles, so i'm sure that'll open me a whole new can of jeep worms to worry about
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Originally posted by XJtheXtremeJeep View Postjust do a SYE when you add to that lift, all ya really have to do
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SYE is definitely on my wish list..but I can get away with doing a t-case drop instead right?
i'm really just worried about the pinion angle. i don't want to have to re-locate the leaf spring plates and what not after rolling the axle back. mainly because..i don't weld.
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Originally posted by skippy View PostSYE is definitely on my wish list..but I can get away with doing a t-case drop instead right?
i'm really just worried about the pinion angle. i don't want to have to re-locate the leaf spring plates and what not after rolling the axle back. mainly because..i don't weld.
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for brake lines get ones from a 1990 chevy c1500 2 wd they are 18 dollars a piece part numbers 38620 and 38621 pass and drivers. they are 25.125" long. those part numbers should work at most autopart numbers1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
2001 wj tbd
1974 5 ton
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or front brake lines from say a 95 wrangler also work good... im running about 5 inches of lift and still have plenty of slack when flexed.98 Cherokee, D30/8.25 w/4.56s locked F/R -- 3 link front IRO springs rear with shackle relocation, one ton steering w/heims, hybrid cage under contruction, 33'' KM2's
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