Originally posted by HeavyMetal
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Swapping A Proportional Valve
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I don't think the proportioning valve is even built into the combination valve on the XJ I think the proportioning is in the master.
The combo valve only has a residual pressure valve and a shuttle valve to turn the light on when you loose a brake line.
Can you post a picture?
adjustable external prop valves are only like $30 and easy to install install it on whatever brakes lock up first they only reduce pressure not make more pressure.RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View PostI don't think the proportioning valve is even built into the combination valve on the XJ I think the proportioning is in the master.Dan.
2000 XJ, BJ 60 front, welded, 5.13's, 3 link, ruffstuff heims. D70 rear, detroit, 5.13's, discs. stretched. trail ready beadlocks. 39" Red labels. 4:1 Klune V-drive/D20, PSC full hydro
http://www.facebook.com/people/Dan-M...00000913365979
www.DMROFFROAD.com
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View PostI don't think the proportioning valve is even built into the combination valve on the XJ I think the proportioning is in the master.
The combo valve only has a residual pressure valve and a shuttle valve to turn the light on when you loose a brake line.
Can you post a picture?
adjustable external prop valves are only like $30 and easy to install install it on whatever brakes lock up first they only reduce pressure not make more pressure.
EDIT: No pictures of under the hood on the Jeep. I'll take one when i get home at around 4.Last edited by Hudson; 12-07-2012, 09:31 AM.Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View PostI don't think the proportioning valve is even built into the combination valve on the XJ I think the proportioning is in the master.
The combo valve only has a residual pressure valve and a shuttle valve to turn the light on when you loose a brake line.
Can you post a picture?
adjustable external prop valves are only like $30 and easy to install install it on whatever brakes lock up first they only reduce pressure not make more pressure.
just easier to say so everyone knows what your talking about....Originally posted by Ktmracer419some people choose video games
some choose projects
some choose welding random things together
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Originally posted by justtorchit View Postcorrect..... but everyone calls the combo valve the proportioning valve.
just easier to say so everyone knows what your talking about....Last edited by Hudson; 12-07-2012, 09:53 AM.Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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Originally posted by Hudson View PostSo you're basically saying i shouldn't even touch any of that setup unless my master is actually shot and needs replacement?
NO NEED TO TOUCH THE COMBO VALVE (aka the non proportioning/residual/shuttle valve )
EVEN IF YOUR MASTER IS BAD, EVERYONE IN THIS THREAD HAS STATED THEY DIDNT SWAP THE VALVES!!!!!!
now replace your pads
pop the o ring out of the residual valve
bleed the shit out of your brakes
and see if its good to go
sorry but i feel like im beating a dead horse.Originally posted by Ktmracer419some people choose video games
some choose projects
some choose welding random things together
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Originally posted by justtorchit View Postyes, i have been saying.... and ill say it AGAIN
NO NEED TO TOUCH THE COMBO VALVE (aka the non proportioning/residual/shuttle valve )
EVEN IF YOUR MASTER IS BAD, EVERYONE IN THIS THREAD HAS STATED THEY DIDNT SWAP THE VALVES!!!!!!
now replace your pads
pop the o ring out of the residual valve
bleed the shit out of your brakes
and see if its good to go
sorry but i feel like im beating a dead horse.
I will do exactly that and report back.
Reading that now.Last edited by Hudson; 12-07-2012, 10:19 AM.Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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no problem lolololol. just report back after you do that. we will go from there.
but back to the discussion, There is alot of shitty information out on how the valves work.... and i want to know whats true and whats not.
the removing the oring trick..... lots of misleading info out there saying it makes it 50/50. but we r saying that it is a residual valve and just keeping pressure in the rear brake lines. How exactly does this work? by looking at this picture:
one would think that the section on the front where the o ring comes out would be the proportioning section...... WHAT IS THIS O RING DOING? How does its work? I dont have a combo valve sitting infront of me and im not running out to take mine apart to understand it.Originally posted by Ktmracer419some people choose video games
some choose projects
some choose welding random things together
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looking at this picture fluid flows past the differential piston (shuttle valve), then flows into the proprtioing valve (which resembles the front section of a xj combo valve). correct? so does the xj combo valve indeed include a proportioning valve? where is the o ring located?Originally posted by Ktmracer419some people choose video games
some choose projects
some choose welding random things together
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I'd need better pictures or parts in hand.
What I remember is that it is only a check valve.
The o-ring is a lip seal so only prevents fluid from coming from the wheel cylinders back to the master. and lets the fluid from the master flow freely to the wheel cylinder.
But it has been a while.
I think this guy has the lip seal back words, it doesn't make sense that way but I would like to see an XJ cross section.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/..._Valve_Mod.htm
Like I said it has been a while.
Either way I would remove the ring and install an adjustable prop valve as needed they are only $30RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
Sponsors:
Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View PostI'd need better pictures or parts in hand.
What I remember is that it is only a check valve.
The o-ring is a lip seal so only prevents fluid from coming from the wheel cylinders back to the master. and lets the fluid from the master flow freely to the wheel cylinder.
But it has been a while.
I think this guy has the lip seal back words, it doesn't make sense that way but I would like to see an XJ cross section.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/..._Valve_Mod.htm
Like I said it has been a while.
Either way I would remove the ring and install an adjustable prop valve as needed they are only $30
and yes i do agree with the the adjustable prop valve... did that with rear disc swap on a yota.Originally posted by Ktmracer419some people choose video games
some choose projects
some choose welding random things together
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Originally posted by justtorchit View PostYes, i was looking around and finally found a decent photo of it... i do believe this is just a check valve and the oring is just the seal.... so basically the piston and spring can be removed aswell and it would do the same. i might have one laying around the garage to see in person.
and yes i do agree with the the adjustable prop valve... did that with rear disc swap on a yota.
You cannot just remove the piston and spring I tried that there is another seal on the shaft if it is not in there brake fluid just comes out the hole.RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
Sponsors:
Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts
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Well just put new pads in the rear and bled the system. (Did not remove any o-ring or touch the prop valve/combo/whatever you want to call it.)
Brakes were really firm when the engine was off, but the second i started it up the brakes went back to where they originally where. (I think this means my brake booster is working correctly?)
Possibly my master going out?Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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