do a youtube search. people have posted vids of installing them and shit
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Alright. Carrier is out. Ring gear is off.
Pinion looks fine. Saw another piece of metal in the diff not sure where it's coming from. Ring gear also looks fine.
Can anyone tell me how to remove that pin looking thing that holds the center pin in place? I don't want to fuck it up. I've read on some "It's a roll pin that must be knocked out with a punch and hammer." I think that's my case. Where do i get a new roll pin?
Here's a picture of it removed maybe something is wrong and i just don't see it.
Oh, and Sardo, the two seals that need to be replaced on the 30 are the ones right to the left and right of the diff, correct?
Last edited by Hudson; 07-31-2013, 11:59 PM.Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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ya should be that white ring seal thing shown on the right side. i'm not too familiar with axles yet, i'll be building my first one in a week or so.
as for the pinion i think you just take the nut off that holds on the yoke then hit it out with a hammer and punch. that's how i stripped my other axle.
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Originally posted by sardo_67 View Postya should be that white ring seal thing shown on the right side. i'm not too familiar with axles yet, i'll be building my first one in a week or so.
as for the pinion i think you just take the nut off that holds on the yoke then hit it out with a hammer and punch. that's how i stripped my other axle.
I don't need to take the pinion out. No chips in the teeth or anything and i just need to replace both of the axle tube seals. Going to figure out how to get the roll pin out of the carrier so i can remove the aussie and inspect that before reinstalling everything.
Need to hit the hay first though as there are lawns that need to be mowed tomorrow.Hudson
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No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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Getting all these odds and ends figured out as i'm rushing like a madman trying to get this jeep together by labor day.
Bought a bunch of shit this week. Probably going to buy 35x12.5x15s within the next few days.
Got my two air lines run from the front of the jeep to the rear of the jeep. (i know i could of tee'd one of the air lines instead of running two, but i didn't want to do that.)
Anyways, i ran the air lines, along with two 14 gage wires (one to supply power and one that splices into the a/c compressor to wire up a switch for my OBA) and another 0 gage wire for power to the back of the jeep if i ever need it.
I think the air lines and wire looks super neat although it is on the floor of the jeep.
This picture shows the wire in the jeep. (don't mind the kick panel off as it's part of the doorless mod. Hahaha.)
Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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Originally posted by sardo_67 View PostYou don't have carpet in there?
Going to call up Clayton and buy those coils as soon as my money transfers from my bank account into my paypal. Should be tomorrow or the next day.
Just got my bearings for the axle shafts, the oil seals, and one rubicon retainer ring, along with the axle seals for the D30, and some new shackles. I thought the rubicon retainers came in a pair, but that's not the case. Just had to buy another one of them.
Trying to swap out all of my steering components, both axles, and get a rear bumper on, and some other shit before labor day.
Few questions though;
1) Will a stock XJ front driveshaft work on about 6.5" of lift? (in the rear with a SYE)
2) What's the best rotors to buy for Wj steering?
Hudson
Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903
No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.
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2002 Explorer SporTrac rotors are the correct size and match the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. You'll need to space the caliper back by around 1/8" though... you can do it by finding a spacer with the correct ID of the caliper bolt and cutting it down to the correct width.2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"MK2 Jetta > M3Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program
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Or just redrill stock wi rotors, that's what I did, so did will, and Zach, and Alex too I think, it works the best considering that's what it was designed for. I believe Iron Rock sells predrilled ones too.-Caleb
Crawl Daddy Champion 2011
1999 XJ 4 inchs of lift or so, 35s and some other stuff.
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Originally posted by Robin Fairchild View Post2002 Explorer SporTrac rotors are the correct size and match the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. You'll need to space the caliper back by around 1/8" though... you can do it by finding a spacer with the correct ID of the caliper bolt and cutting it down to the correct width.
Originally posted by Bigbike View PostOr just redrill stock wi rotors, that's what I did, so did will, and Zach, and Alex too I think, it works the best considering that's what it was designed for. I believe Iron Rock sells predrilled ones too.
Afraid ill drill my holes off center and not have the rotor spinning true causing something bad to happen.
I only see the slotted ones on IRO's website. Don't see just regular rotors.
Originally posted by Riot View PostCool build.Hudson
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Originally posted by Hudson View PostI was going to do that and use my old wheel bearing as a template but I'm Afraid ill drill my holes off center and not have the rotor spinning true causing something bad to happen.No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.
ForSure Motorsports
Win or Lose, We Booze.
Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers
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Rotors dont care if the holes are perfect. They are hub-centric and clamped by the wheel. The explorer rotors are NOT direct bolt in. I forget the difference, I think the diameter was a little off. Its been a little while since I did mine, but I just flipped the stock XJ rotor upside down, put it on top of the new WJ rotor, center punched and cut the new lug holes with a roto-broach. I was a little off so I went up a size and it was fine.Dan.
2000 XJ, BJ 60 front, welded, 5.13's, 3 link, ruffstuff heims. D70 rear, detroit, 5.13's, discs. stretched. trail ready beadlocks. 39" Red labels. 4:1 Klune V-drive/D20, PSC full hydro
http://www.facebook.com/people/Dan-M...00000913365979
www.DMROFFROAD.com
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