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Welding a Rur Axehull

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  • Welding a Rur Axehull

    What's the secret?

    I'm thinking about welding my 8.25 for OER III, as i'll be switching in my 44 upon return and I kinda don't wanna be traction-less this year.

    I just want some advice. I have an ARC (220v) and MIG (Millermatic 180, 220v) and I was just hoping I could use the MIG....

    Also can I leave the carrier in the housing or should I take it out?
    dirty30

  • #2
    if you don't care about it, jack the rear up and set it on stands. blast the whole inside with some brake cleaner and wipe down. weld that bitch up as it sits and thrash

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    • #3
      You could do it that way...but it will make it impossible to replace a shaft if you break one...If i were you, ID take the carrier out..hose it down with break cleaner, then tack the spider gears on place with the center pin in. Take the pin out and put it on a grill and pre-heat it for like a half hour, then burn everything in. Put the carrier back in, re-set the backlash and ur good to go. Thats how Owen showed me when we welded my 8.25 for my 89 a whiile ago.
      98 Cherokee, D30/8.25 w/4.56s locked F/R -- 3 link front IRO springs rear with shackle relocation, one ton steering w/heims, hybrid cage under contruction, 33'' KM2's

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      • #4
        Originally posted by netrachamp1853 View Post
        hose it down with break cleaner, then tack the spider gears on place with the center pin in.
        Brake cleaner and welding isn't the greatest mix, I'd be careful with that.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Even View Post
          Brake cleaner and welding isn't the greatest mix, I'd be careful with that.
          true. phosgene gas ftl.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by netrachamp1853 View Post
            You could do it that way...but it will make it impossible to replace a shaft if you break one...If i were you, ID take the carrier out..hose it down with break cleaner, then tack the spider gears on place with the center pin in. Take the pin out and put it on a grill and pre-heat it for like a half hour, then burn everything in. Put the carrier back in, re-set the backlash and ur good to go. Thats how Owen showed me when we welded my 8.25 for my 89 a whiile ago.
            the right way to do it.

            the who gives a shit way if you are replacing the rear next week and don't have to drive it home from the trail is my plan above.

            i like this way better though.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Even View Post
              Brake cleaner and welding isn't the greatest mix, I'd be careful with that.


              how to kill yourself with brake cleaner
              - Will


              Originally posted by fizzy
              or am asians pants not a read end lol.
              Originally posted by DizzDizz
              aliens probed my husband

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              • #8
                Fozzy Locker

                Fozzy locker is a twist to the standard Lincoln Locker. Apparently made popular by a guy named Fozzy. The Fozzy Locker is a cheap, removable version of the "Lincoln Locker" where the teeth of the side gears of the spider gear set are partially filled by welding material.

                Some people who have created a Fozzy locker weld up the valley between 2 adjacent teeth on the side gears as pictured to the right. Welds are done 180° apart. Both side gears are done this way. The valley between the teeth are then fill until flush with the top of the teeth and ground flat. Some people say there are a couple advantages to the fozzy Locker. By only doing the two valleys it allows the side gears to still rotate partially before locking. The gears that are being welded are the same gears that are replaced when a drop in a "lunch box locker" so if it doesn't work out as you hoped or if you damage a side gear, it can be replaced by one of several drop-in lockers such as a Lock Rite or a Detroit EZ Locker. Ultimately this type of locker will not ratchet (disengage) around corners as a an automatic locker would would and can be hard on the stock open carrier especially when a wheel spins and hits the weld placing a large amount of shock on the stock carrier.
                running spooled was not too bad on the street tight turns were a pain in the ass, but for free traction it is worth it
                1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
                2001 wj tbd
                1974 5 ton

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                • #9
                  I've seen the "Fozzy" locker fail.

                  Clean it with brake cleaner... And let it evaporate! And BTW I am doing 90% of my breathing through P100's when I am welding and grinding these days.

                  Pretheat it in an oven, gas grill, or oxy-acytelene torch.

                  Stick weld with 7018, either 3/32 or 1/8, don't run too hot for the wire size.
                  1950 Willys Trail Rig
                  2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4

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                  • #10
                    So stick welding is preferable? If that's the case I'll have to have my pops do it as I don't feel 100% comfortable ARC welding
                    dirty30

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                    • #11
                      corey blasted mine with mig. It was mad easy, done in under 40 minutes, very easy to do, worked good, never broke ( 33 inch tires ). Just mig it.

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                      • #12
                        WD-40 and a rag.... just as good as brakleen or carb cleaner and its harmless
                        No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


                        ForSure Motorsports
                        Win or Lose, We Booze.


                        Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Hydra View Post
                          So stick welding is preferable? If that's the case I'll have to have my pops do it as I don't feel 100% comfortable ARC welding
                          I've never welded a set of spiders before, but I would imagine it's much easier to just MIG it. I would think it's going to be a pain in the ass cleaning the slag off when you're done, you don't want any of that shit floating around your diff.

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                          • #14
                            I have welded them with stick and MIG, never had one break using either method, but they definately come out nicer with stick and you can get in a lot farther with a stick electrode. MIG leaves behind a lot of dingleberries, if you clean it nice and weld with 7018 its a really nice finished product. I spend a lot of time cleaning them out after welding, and after you dirve it for a day or two, change the gear oil in case you missed any crap, it can tear up your bearings and gears.

                            One thing I learned is the preheat works great, I have had a few welds crack while it was cooling, when I didn't preheat.
                            1950 Willys Trail Rig
                            2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4

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