Going to be regearing my 30 tommorow to a 4:10 i have a bare XJ housing and a set of gears and a carrier from a YJ as well as a master install kit.. Only question I have is setting pinion depth with the shims whats the best way to do it?
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Originally posted by CumminsJeep View Post89XJ Pioneer Edition 3.5" 33s ravines 4:10s 8.8- parted but not forgotten
95XJ tons 3 link 36s 5:38s
97 F-250HD 7.3 Turbo Diesel
If Parts Ain't Flyin' you Ain't Tryin'
"Shut up and Wheel"
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Ask Google what is a good starting shim size or reuse your old one.
Remember the carrier bearing caps are matched so mark left right up down.
Install the pinion don't worry about pinion preload until the depth is set. Just install it and torque down the pinion until it is about as hard as you can turn a screwdriver.
Then install your carrier set the backlash.
Then put marking compound on it and read the pattern adjust the shims accordingly.
Repeat until your pattern is good this can take a few tries that is why setup bearings are nice you don't have to press them on and off every a million times.
I have the pinion depth tool so I just set it to the depth written on the pinion and double check with the pattern.
Once you got the pinion depth set then you set the pinion preload, if this is a crush collar make sure you have the bearing and seal in place first.
Then you add about .010 shims to both sides of the carrier for the carrier bearing preload and double check the backlash. You should really have to force the carrier in with the hammer it shouldn't just fall in especially if you're not using a case spreader.
Tools you will need
giant clown hammer (big dead blow)
calipers to measure shims,
dial indicator to measure backlash,
in_lb torque wrench for pinion preload you can usually get by with feel after a while.
A case spreader is good idea to get the correct amount of carrier preload.
If your replacing the inner seals the seal installer makes your job a million times easier.
Pinion depth tool or extra tries.
Setup bearings makes the job faster and less chance of F-ing up the bearings. Bearing race installer or something to hit them in.
Torque wrench for the ring gear bolts an the bearing caps.
Loctite for all the bolts
And a large prybar to get the carrier out once you hit it in it is hard to get out.
Silicone don't forger to put it under the pinion to seal off the pinion splines to yoke.
Good luck.
~JustinRCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
Sponsors:
Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View PostAsk Google what is a good starting shim size or reuse your old one.
Remember the carrier bearing caps are matched so mark left right up down.
Install the pinion don't worry about pinion preload until the depth is set. Just install it and torque down the pinion until it is about as hard as you can turn a screwdriver.
Then install your carrier set the backlash.
Then put marking compound on it and read the pattern adjust the shims accordingly.
Repeat until your pattern is good this can take a few tries that is why setup bearings are nice you don't have to press them on and off every a million times.
I have the pinion depth tool so I just set it to the depth written on the pinion and double check with the pattern.
Once you got the pinion depth set then you set the pinion preload, if this is a crush collar make sure you have the bearing and seal in place first.
Then you add about .010 shims to both sides of the carrier for the carrier bearing preload and double check the backlash. You should really have to force the carrier in with the hammer it shouldn't just fall in especially if you're not using a case spreader.
Tools you will need
giant clown hammer (big dead blow)
calipers to measure shims,
dial indicator to measure backlash,
in_lb torque wrench for pinion preload you can usually get by with feel after a while.
A case spreader is good idea to get the correct amount of carrier preload.
If your replacing the inner seals the seal installer makes your job a million times easier.
Pinion depth tool or extra tries.
Setup bearings makes the job faster and less chance of F-ing up the bearings. Bearing race installer or something to hit them in.
Torque wrench for the ring gear bolts an the bearing caps.
Loctite for all the bolts
And a large prybar to get the carrier out once you hit it in it is hard to get out.
Silicone don't forger to put it under the pinion to seal off the pinion splines to yoke.
Good luck.
~Justin89XJ Pioneer Edition 3.5" 33s ravines 4:10s 8.8- parted but not forgotten
95XJ tons 3 link 36s 5:38s
97 F-250HD 7.3 Turbo Diesel
If Parts Ain't Flyin' you Ain't Tryin'
"Shut up and Wheel"
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