suspension set up choices

[grundlepunch]

but one dude is saying that the numbers in a linked front end arent all that important and all you need to worry about is in the rear. he also goes on to say that a 3 link calculator for the front is useless, just try to get the upper arm as parralel to the ground as possible while keeping halfway decent separation at the axle and you will be good to go

what im thinking...

do Option 3.... and in the future just add a front 3 link if desired.

[justtorchit]

hmmm.... hokay so...

i would take you front lower arms and use them for a 3 link... im not gonna preach that a 3 link is better in the real world, but isnt it nice to know that you have a decent setup with gewd numbaz?? it def wont hurt anything and to make one upper link and mount is easy.

now for the rear.. what is the point in making longer arms.. how much will it effect your numbers with the longer wheelbase? thats what i would be looking at.

if you go through and the numbers look like dog ass then just make a double triangulated 4 link in the rear..

Use all the joints ya have, and build the best ya can with what ya have.

[Ktmracer419]

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1027046

pay attention to goatmans posts. this guy has been building xj's since i was a toddler

[grundlepunch]

now for the rear.. what is the point in making longer arms.. how much will it effect your numbers with the longer wheelbase? thats what i would be looking at.

if you go through and the numbers look like dog ass then just make a double triangulated 4 link in the rear..

Use all the joints ya have, and build the best ya can with what ya have.

good advice mang.... i figured if i kept the same arm length with stretching my WB it would fuck with my numbaz....

i've have to mess with the calculator, i never have so this should be interesting.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1027046

pay attention to goatmans posts. this guy has been building xj's since i was a toddler

thanks for the link man... good shit

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

I'm leaning toward 3.5 and the fact that it does save cost is a huge plus. I would run your options though a calculator to check on the numbers as stated before. They aren't that hard to work, I have been playing with a 3-link myself. Heres some links that I found and Sam set me up with that I found most helpful in understanding how to use the calculator.

Where to get yo numbers from + what shit means. Read this first
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...3&postcount=21

4 Link Calc 101
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=460091

3 Link TOTM
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=816361

[Arundlemcbrundle]

i voted numba 2.5. long arms are long enough, dunno the geometry but i'd think it'd get hung up on alotta shit with even longer ones and its cheaper but still tri/4 link

[CumminsJeep]

voted 3.5 but i think 4 is a good option also. but thats also a lot of monies.

[Henchman]

I like option 3.5

I wanna eventually run 4link rear/3 link front

[HitItWithSomeSpeed]

My answer depends on what shape your clayton arms are in. (replace or not) But im leaning toward telling you to do the three link option either way.

Im in a similar situation because my arms are rotting away. been thinking about buying new ones from clayton, but thats money, and at that point i might as well consider their three link upgrade too, as i dont like how my radius arms are mounted on my truss.

However, I dont know how I feel about trying to go through the effort of doing a three link, as i dont know how much better it will be.
soooooo, i think you should give it a go and let me know how it goes.

haha, joking aside, i wouldnt consider messing with the rear LCAs at all till ive seen the calculator numbers. thats the real way to decided whats best i think.

The genright brackets sound like they would be useful tho. I would probably consider those if i were you.

good luck with whatever route you choose bud.

[grundlepunch]

My answer depends on what shape your clayton arms are in. (replace or not) But im leaning toward telling you to do the three link option either way.

Im in a similar situation because my arms are rotting away. been thinking about buying new ones from clayton, but thats money, and at that point i might as well consider their three link upgrade too, as i dont like how my radius arms are mounted on my truss.

However, I dont know how I feel about trying to go through the effort of doing a three link, as i dont know how much better it will be.
soooooo, i think you should give it a go and let me know how it goes.

haha, joking aside, i wouldnt consider messing with the rear LCAs at all till ive seen the calculator numbers. thats the real way to decided whats best i think.

The genright brackets sound like they would be useful tho. I would probably consider those if i were you.

good luck with whatever route you choose bud.

the arms are guaranteed for life from clayton so if they are rotting that bad i would return them. they have FANTASTIC customer service

my arms are in good shape so this is what im doing. due to time constraints right now (i want to wheel it in April) im going to leave the front AS IS.
I played with the link calculator last night and i get better numbers if i lengthen my arms sooo

the rear:

new frame link mounts:



they tuck the lower link mount up higher so they wont get bashed, and have adjustable upper link mount

new axle end lower links, 10 degree offset to match frame brackets



going to run Johnny Joints at all ends of my links (not just 2 on the lowers)

make longer arms outs square stock and some of these:



hope it works out good

[HitItWithSomeSpeed]

Tried it, turns out theres fine print.

the warranty only covers bending or breaking of arms.

Ive gone to them to replace two already and have a third cut and rewelded because the threads in the insert were so bad.

they gave me a deal on the hour of labor they charged me, but all together replacing the arms ive spent close to $500.

and now the two new rear lowers that i got from them are rotting out too.

Damn gen 1 kit without powdercoat

I still agree that their customer service is great, Im just in a bad spot i suppose. although, I dont know how i feel about dropping $1300 on a new set of arms from them, may just have to make my own.

anyways, looks like youve got a gameplan. good luck!

[grundlepunch]

may just have to make my own.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1557.html

tube adapters are $17, and square tube is cheep
if you need help making them im down, or i can sell you my rear arms (no JJ's) for cheep, and they will have good bushings in them

anyways, looks like youve got a gameplan. good luck!

thanks man! I HOPE! haha

[Ktmracer419]

Tried it, turns out theres fine print.

the warranty only covers bending or breaking of arms.

:

maybe if you wheeled more they would bend

[HitItWithSomeSpeed]

how about you get bent Sam...

[HitItWithSomeSpeed]

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...er_p_1557.html

tube adapters are $17, and square tube is cheep
if you need help making them im down, or i can sell you my rear arms (no JJ's) for cheep, and they will have good bushings in them
thanks man! I HOPE! haha

whatever I decide to do... you'll be getting a PM when I get going on this.