Originally posted by Cletus
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axle swap option
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gonna keep thinking about it, it seems WJs are a pain in the ass when it comes to axle swaps from what i read...usually having to ditch the ABS and finding a way for the speedo to work...
idk if i'd want a custom fabbed axle in my DD when i can put one in that came out of a WJ...im happy with just having one axle locked im more or less just looking for an axle that will handle 33's fine and get me home from rausch...seems like the 44a is the perfect candidate...-Jason
99WJ 4.0
IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers
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Originally posted by lakailimited06 View Postgonna keep thinking about it, it seems WJs are a pain in the ass when it comes to axle swaps from what i read...usually having to ditch the ABS and finding a way for the speedo to work...
idk if i'd want a custom fabbed axle in my DD when i can put one in that came out of a WJ...im happy with just having one axle locked im more or less just looking for an axle that will handle 33's fine and get me home from rausch...seems like the 44a is the perfect candidate...
yea i understand what you mean about the non custom shit, my ideas for cars an shit as DD's usually arnt to reasonable so i usually dont vote for that option. but, if your only gong to be running 33s an u dont seam like you beat on your jeep to bad any option would probaly be fine its just whatever your most comfortable doin. an making all the brackets an shit for an axle swap deff can turn into a pain an take longer than expected. just my .0297 zj- frankenstein 3.5", 35 stt's.
92 240sx- coilovers,full adj arms bla bla bla. 50trim t3/t04 soon
xj- need one
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Originally posted by lakailimited06 View Postseems like the 44a is the perfect candidate...
Trussing is a must because of how flexible the aluminum center is, and you are definetly going to want some sort of skid that wraps underneath to prevent chunking when dragging it over rocks. I've also heard that the carrier bearings like to wear out quickly. Something about how quickly the aluminum heats up and cools down, but I'm not sure how accurate that is.
Aftermarket support is minimal, and the one locker that everyone looks for (Aussie), well...good luck getting one for a decent price. I've seen them go for $400 bucks used.
I would tend to agree with everyone above that the 8.8 is the most sensible option. It's one thing if you already had a 44a underneath it right now, but you don't.
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I don't know much about the ABS on the WJ does it use a center ring on the carrier you might be able to get the sensor on the 8.8 to work, they have a sensor on the carrier.RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
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Originally posted by 003brian View Postyea i understand what you mean about the non custom shit, my ideas for cars an shit as DD's usually arnt to reasonable so i usually dont vote for that option. but, if your only gong to be running 33s an u dont seam like you beat on your jeep to bad any option would probaly be fine its just whatever your most comfortable doin. an making all the brackets an shit for an axle swap deff can turn into a pain an take longer than expected. just my .02
Originally posted by Even View PostThe 44a is a stout axle, if you spend a lot of money to build it correctly.
Trussing is a must because of how flexible the aluminum center is, and you are definetly going to want some sort of skid that wraps underneath to prevent chunking when dragging it over rocks. I've also heard that the carrier bearings like to wear out quickly. Something about how quickly the aluminum heats up and cools down, but I'm not sure how accurate that is.
Aftermarket support is minimal, and the one locker that everyone looks for (Aussie), well...good luck getting one for a decent price. I've seen them go for $400 bucks used.
I would tend to agree with everyone above that the 8.8 is the most sensible option. It's one thing if you already had a 44a underneath it right now, but you don't.
gears and install is going to be the only real expense other than like you said finding an aussie for it...
if trussed/skid the 44a is said to be stronger than the iron 44 and some parts are compared to the strength of a dana 60
This is a tech post that I came up with based off of info I found on JF, mostly thanks to EMTimZJ
http://www.rockfrogs.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=779
Comparision between Aluminum & Iron D44:
Pro's:
Bolt up.
Get to maintain ABS & speedometer pickup (both based off of tone rings)
Strong R&P
Cons:
Lowest gear ratio is 4.56
Only one locker (lunchbox locker to boot) availablee for it.
Weak axle tubes
Aluminum housing makes it prone to twisting and destroying the wheel bearings.
Ring gear on a D44a is thicker
Pinion gear on a D44a is similar to a D60
30 spline axle shafts
Specifics:
Dana 60
Ring Gear Diameter = 9.750"
Pinion shaft Diameter = 1.626"
Ring Gear Bolt Count = 12
Pinion Spline = 29
Cover Bolt Count = 10
Dana 44 a
Ring Gear Diameter = 8.5"
Pinion Shaft Diameter = 1.625"
Ring Gear Bolt Count = 10
Pinion Spline = 29
Cover Bolt Count = 10
Dana 44 Iron
Ring Gear Diameter=8.500"
Pinion shaft Diameter=1.376"
Ring Gear Bolt Count=10
Pinion Spline=26
Cover Bolt Count=10Last edited by lakailimited06; 02-18-2010, 07:02 PM.-Jason
99WJ 4.0
IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View PostI don't know much about the ABS on the WJ does it use a center ring on the carrier you might be able to get the sensor on the 8.8 to work, they have a sensor on the carrier.-Jason
99WJ 4.0
IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers
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http://www.arlojeep.com/Misc-Pics/D4...Sd35_RandP.jpg
and heres a skid/truss id probably mimic
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9591/imgp0215li3.jpg-Jason
99WJ 4.0
IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers
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