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  • a/c compresser as on board air

    anyone do this? how much work/parts are involved? pics/write ups...? would be great.
    Last edited by JoeNitro; 11-01-2009, 07:19 PM.
    #becauseJoeNitro

  • #2
    i did it. not a lot of work. when you can spell correctly i will help.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by crosbike View Post
      i did it. not a lot of work. when you can spell correctly i will help.
      fixed
      #becauseJoeNitro

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      • #4
        put a filter on the inlet side, run an air line to a tank
        fill the compressor with oil
        run a tank mounted or inline pressure switch, run power to the pressure switch to the AC unit and to a switch mounted in the cab.
        "when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"

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        • #5
          I did it to mine, off the top of my head the parts i used were 1 roll of 1/4" air line, 1 crank case breather for a intake filter, 1 oil too oiler ,1 check valve, 1 2.5 gallon air tank, 1 150psi saftey switch, 1 145 psi off/120psi on pressure switch, and a whole crap load of 1/4" fittings. I'm in west haven too let me know if you wanna look at my set up to get an idea of how it works.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by kevinlax16 View Post
            I did it to mine, off the top of my head the parts i used were 1 roll of 1/4" air line, 1 crank case breather for a intake filter, 1 oil too oiler ,1 check valve, 1 2.5 gallon air tank, 1 150psi saftey switch, 1 145 psi off/120psi on pressure switch, and a whole crap load of 1/4" fittings. I'm in west haven too let me know if you wanna look at my set up to get an idea of how it works.
            i wanna see...................
            #becauseJoeNitro

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            • #7
              why do i need a tank? cant i just put a hose off the output and when i want it on turn on the a/c? i dident know there was a need for all these switches and valves...????
              #becauseJoeNitro

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              • #8
                you don't need the tank i guess...you cant just turn the ac on when you want to use it though. When you remove the freon from the ac system the compressor clutch will no longer engage because the freon acts as the oil to the compressor, by removing the freon you will trip the low freon saftey. If you want to run the oba with out a tank you will still have to "howire" the compressor to bypass the saftey.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by kevinlax16 View Post
                  you don't need the tank i guess...you cant just turn the ac on when you want to use it though. When you remove the freon from the ac system the compressor clutch will no longer engage because the freon acts as the oil to the compressor, by removing the freon you will trip the low freon saftey. If you want to run the oba with out a tank you will still have to "howire" the compressor to bypass the saftey.
                  oh. ok.

                  i wanna check yours out.
                  #becauseJoeNitro

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                  • #10
                    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/c...p-pics-471962/

                    You're welcome.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by crosbike View Post
                      #becauseJoeNitro

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                      • #12
                        you will blow hoses with no tank or switch

                        you will blow tanks with no switch
                        www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                        • #13
                          Do a google search, there are a million setups with pics out there. Most people run a York or Sanden compressor

                          Your jeep probably has a Sanden SD508 or SD709, both of which can be used. I am building a Sanden SD508 at the moment. Normally, when used in an AC setup, the compressor circulated the lubericating oil through the AC system. Since OBA is no longer a closed system the biggest concern is lubrication. The easy way to do it, as you will see on most write-ups is to use an inline oiler on the intake side, and a coalescing filter on the outlet side with some kind of pressure switch to control the clutch operation.

                          I am building an SD508 right now. If you feel like taking your compressor apart, you can mod it to run gear oil or grease and not have to run an inline lubricator on the air inlet. You can also mod the head to run NPT fittings and you can mod the valve plate to flow better. Endless Air is an Austrailian company that sells a compressor like this.

                          The SD508 is a ~8 CI/Revolution, 5 cylinder rotary compressor, the SD709 is a 7 cylinder, ~9CI/ Rev compressor. To figure out the CFM (popular rating for air compressors) you multiply the engine RPM by CI/Rev, then divide by 1728 (CI/CF). At 1200RPM engine speed a Sanden SD508 can produce 5.55 CFM, which is pretty good, and even better if you have an air tank (Reservior).

                          York compressors are more popular for OBA, if you do a google search you can learn why the design of a York is more durable when used for OBA (open system) Why didn't I choose to run a York 210 (2 piston, 10CI/Rev)? For 2 reasons: a) it is very tough to find a York 210 with a 6 groove serpentine pulley and the pulley is well over $100 when purchased separately. Sanden compressors are commonly found with 6 groove serp pulleys b) the Sanden Rotary compressors are more compact, which is what I needed.

                          So here is the basic layout

                          Compressor choice/ mounting
                          Lubrication
                          Plumbing/Electrical
                          Tank


                          I will be posting pics of my setup when I get into it a little farther

                          I am running a modded SD508, going to make a bracket to mount it where the stock AC compressor would mount on my 4.3. For a tank I am going to be running a small aluminum propane cylinder
                          1950 Willys Trail Rig
                          2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4

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                          • #14
                            sounds good owen. once i get a few extra dollars imma attempt this myself. care to lend a hand if need be? a lil unsure of exactly what parts id need.
                            #becauseJoeNitro

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by JoeNitro View Post
                              sounds good owen. once i get a few extra dollars imma attempt this myself. care to lend a hand if need be? a lil unsure of exactly what parts id need.
                              It seems like one can spend $100 to $1000 on this setup. I have no first hand successes yet, just laying it out, but I should know faily soon if what I am doing will actually work or not. I have probably read about 50 writeups, there is a lot of info out there. Do some homework on it, there is a lot to learn.
                              1950 Willys Trail Rig
                              2007.5 Dodge 2500 QCSB 6.7 Cummins 68RFE 4x4

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