Front Axle Tech/Opinions

[Hydra]

I've recently been considering drivetrain upgrades, and my biggest choice blocking progress is whether to keep and upgrade the hp30, or look into a Waggy 44. My plans down the road are to run 35's, locked rear and depending which route I take maybe a locked front. The issue is, to get the waggy 44 set up and installed in the jeep will cost about as much as gearing, locking and beefing up the 30.

So my reall question is do you guys think I should spend the extra dough on a 44( and wait the extra time till I can take the jeep off the road) or should I just stick with the 30 and make it stronger.

Also I've read that a reverse cut 30 is almost as strong as an lp44, is there any validity to this?

Also what's the deal with 30/44 hybrids?

[BOX]

I've read that a reverse cut 30 is almost as strong as an lp44, is there any validity to this?

HIGHLY doubt it.

[crosbike]

I wouldn't swap in a lp44. I would rather take it easy on my 30 locked and save up for either a hp44 or hp60. Don't do a hybrid 30/44 because you still have the tiny 30 ring and pinion.

[grundlepunch]

i've never once hit my lp44 on anything , my control arms would hit b4 the yoke/drive shaft.

if you wheel it hard and are planing on low gears then i would go 44, seen to many hp30's blow up parts

my $0.02. im sure other people will disagree and say other wise. but its hard to find a good bolt in hp44 and d60 is $$ and overkill for 35's. a lp44 is cheap and available and will suit your needs just fine.

[#DEZERTDAD]

hp44 or 1-tons

[Ktmracer419]

my lp front 44 gearset has never been an issue

on 37's beating the piss out of it with high traction tires.

i would say its stonger than a 30 gearset, but some mathematphysicisttichains on the internet forums tell me otherwise.

and thats with several blown alloy/chromo shafts and a broken detroit locker. and "weak" 5.38 gears to boot.

if you already had a locked/geared 30 i would reccomend the reid racing knuckles which bolt onto your 30 and allow you to run 44 outers. but if you have no money in your 30 a 44 isnt a bad idea

[Ktmracer419]

might i add that with either a 44 or 30 if you want it to take abuse you need alloy shafts.

[Hydra]

I have no money into my 30's internals, jstock everything except bushings and bearings

[XJLI]

no way id run a waggy front and stock rear. matching waggy axles, sure. im a fan of the polished turdy, but it need lots of money/time/effort to be uber beef. truss, alloys, reid racing knuckles or WJ outers...

[BOX]

i've never once hit my lp44 on anything , my control arms would hit b4 the yoke/drive shaft.

X2

[DrThunder]

no way id run a waggy front and stock rear. matching waggy axles, sure. im a fan of the polished turdy, but it need lots of money/time/effort to be uber beef. truss, alloys, reid racing knuckles or WJ outers...

No such thing as an uber beef 30. Maybe a beefier 30 but not uber beef.

If I had plans of 35s for life I'd have kept my 30 in the front. You're gonna break a few axleshafts here and there but always have spares and the tools and get good at takin the unit bearings off fast! The 44 outters and stuff would be a great upgrade for the d30. Both axles use the same size u-joint.....

In my opinion if you were to get rid of the unit bearings the d30 would be a pretty good axle.

[Hydra]

no way id run a waggy front and stock rear. matching waggy axles, sure. im a fan of the polished turdy, but it need lots of money/time/effort to be uber beef. truss, alloys, reid racing knuckles or WJ outers...

I have a mj 44 sitting in my garage, waiting till I find a path to follow, but where I'd like to save a little $$ and down time on keeping the 30, the added security of the 44 would definately be welcome.

Just for reference I don't wheel incredibly hard, the only times i currently abuse the skinny pedal is do to being open/open and needing the extra spin to get traction

[XJLI]

Just for reference I don't wheel incredibly hard, the only times i currently abuse the skinny pedal is do to being open/open and needing the extra spin to get traction

the only people who say the 30 is beefcake are the dudes out west where they wheel on glue and tire spin isnt required. those dudes rock D30s locked on 37s when polished to hell and say that shits legit. the killer in the east is the spinning/hopping you do when youre getting it, and that flexes housings/tubes, pops u-joints apart, and eventually blows shafts. i agree with corey about the 35s for life thing.. trussed 30 with WJ brakes/steering, or 44 outers with 1ton brakes and OTK or hi steer and itll be more than enough. id skip the chromos and superjoints and go straight to longfields for the extra 200 bucks itll cost, and the warranty is no questions asked.

[Hydra]

The MaiN issue in my head is this.

The 30/44 thing is nice cuz it means I can gear now and upgrade the rest later, but the knuckles and new axleshafts, steering arms, and such are all $$$

the waggy 44 is nice cuz while it would take me more time to get done, I could run stock shafts, lockouts, and other stuff on the axle on 35's until I got the monies/broke something, and if I ever wanted to go ~36's it wouldn't be a deathbomb

[Even]

id skip the chromos and superjoints and go straight to longfields for the extra 200 bucks itll cost, and the warranty is no questions asked.

i'm gonna x2 this one