My ongoing electrical/battery issue...

[HeavyMetal]

I swapped my battery out for another, and i get same result:

Jump the car with cables, let it run for 5 mins, it eventually wants to die out (sputters, struggles) unless i give it some gas and then it still is sputtering to stay alive, then i turn it off. go to turn it on again and its so dead that i cant even get the dash to light up or beep with the turn of the key. jump it again, same result.

justin suggested this could be my alternator, and im tending to agree with him (i definitely did go through dirty water on the trails splashing around and such last weekend more than normal.) before i go snag one, anyone else agree? or disagree

[Magilla]

get it running and with a voltmeter check the voltage at the alternator. also throw a jumper cable on the neg terminal and to a good metal ground on the motor then see what its charging at.

[xjeeper]

get it running and with a voltmeter check the voltage at the alternator. also throw a jumper cable on the neg terminal and to a good metal ground on the motor then see what its charging at.

already told him to do the same thing to confirm it. Is it necessary to full field the alternator to make sure its not just a faulty regulator?

[HeavyMetal]

ok ill def check up on it when i can, i gotta source a meter

[Magilla]

justin you can or just take the alternator off and have autozone check it out for free.

[xjeeper]

justin you can or just take the alternator off and have autozone check it out for free.

nevermind i think thats what you were referring to when you said jump it from the ground to a ground. usually there is a special test point on it somewhere that says jump to ground.

[Magilla]

yes. also you can check for a bad ground by going from neg bat terminal to motor i had the problem where mine was doing the same thing and it ended up being a bad ground.

[Ruecifur]

x2 on pulling it off and bringing it to autozone

[XJLI]

pulling it off is a bitch. when i verified mine, i just put a voltmeter from the field test on the alt and a ground and when it read less than 12V i knew it was dead. the regulator is built into the alt on HO 4.0s. i recommend NOT getting a reman crap, but instead getting one from an automotive electrics shop. mine was $90 for a fully rebuilt to factory spec one.

[Magilla]

if you get it rebuilt you can also have them make it higher output which usually doesnt cost that much more.

[XJLI]

if you get it rebuilt you can also have them make it higher output which usually doesnt cost that much more.

ya they upped mine from 90 to 100 (max you could go on that my 93 apparently..) but you can boost the newer ones to 160ish.

[Magilla]

you have to watch some times they'll put on a diff size pulley and it wont work. i had that problem at one of the shops i worked at. they used to send them to get rebuilt and they'd come back with diff size pulleys on it and you wouldn't realize. so you would be there wondering why the belt doesn't fit right.

[Ktmracer419]

ive had the pulley issue, just keep the old one until the new one is in there and working, then bring it in for the core.

but i'm not quite sure its his alternator. i have had batteries keep my jeep running no issued for over an hour. and then my headlights will dim and eventually when i hit the brakes the whole jeep will die from the draw of the taillights. no stuttering/stumbling, runs fine until it dies.

there is some serious battery drain methinks

parasitic draw test that bitch

[snowblur17]

If possible just have yours rebuilt.. you'll save a boat load and it doesn't take long

[HeavyMetal]

ok so i tested voltage today with the help of Adam

the alternator is reading 11-12 or so, so i guess its toast and im gonna have it fixed up by some shop if i can. i imagine this would be my issue

anyone know a place offhand that will rebuild it/make it better? that isnt 24393 miles from me?