replacing yoke on D60

[Even]

The breaker bar perfectly wedges up against the frame rail, i was a little weary to try backing up but i think i'll try that tommorow. If that gives me trouble i'll just go pick up a 3/4-1/2 adapter and bust out the impact.

[Ktmracer419]

im sure mr custom creations knows what he is talking about.

but with an impact giving the nut a sudden jolt, works better in this application for me than a longass breaker bar.

an impact can get that nut off even if you have no carrier in there

[wannabejeep]

im sure mr custom creations knows what he is talking about.

but with an impact giving the nut a sudden jolt, works better in this application for me than a longass breaker bar.

an impact can get that nut off even if you have no carrier in there

no no I wasn't trying to say that he's wrong. I probably have 1/450th of the experience that he does, especially dealing with 60's. I was just thinking about shit that I do know...mowers. I thought maybe they worked the same way.


edit: looking back I don't think you were reffering to me at all in your post lol

[xjunker]

The proper ( AND ONLY )way to do it CORRECTLY is to take the carrier out and set the pinion preload with an inch pound dial indicator. Your risking severe damage to your axle the way you are doing it.

[Ktmracer419]

The proper ( AND ONLY )way to do it CORRECTLY is to take the carrier out and set the pinion preload with an inch pound dial indicator. Your risking severe damage to your axle the way you are doing it.

you mean inch lb torque wrench?

when simply replacing the yoke, just torque it back to spec. the shims in there arent going to magically change thicknesses and fuck with your pinion bearing preload.

for removing the nut an impact is acceptable anyway

[HeavyMetal]

you mean inch lb torque wrench?

when simply replacing the yoke, just torque it back to spec. the shims in there arent going to magically change thicknesses and fuck with your pinion bearing preload.

for removing the nut an impact is acceptable anyway

x2 on thus

and x2 on impact.

the breaker bar is not always the best way.

[Zullock Holmes]

The proper ( AND ONLY )way to do it CORRECTLY is to take the carrier out and set the pinion preload with an inch pound dial indicator. Your risking severe damage to your axle the way you are doing it.

JF??

no offense, but that is a very JF reply........

[Wide-J]

Agreed. A properly tourqued pinion nut will yeld the same pinion bearing preload as when it was removed (since it is a non-crush sleeve design).

[customcreationsllc]

There is more than 1 way to skin a cat.

Pinion nuts aren't usually that tight an impact wrench normally does the job.

I have one of the strongest 1/2" IR impact wrenches and used some nice snap-on impact wrenches. When the impact isn't enough I go back to eh breaker bar and I can usually bust it free. Especially with extensions they just suck all the torque out of the impact gun because of all the wind up.

For example the crank bolts on Honda's they sell a special tool to hold the crank with one breaker bar so you can put another on the bolt. The engines spin backwards so you cannot use the starter trick. I never once got it off with the impact gun but I always try. I actually bent my 1/2 snap-on breaker bar trying to get one off.
Another one that is always tight is the Audi axle nut the 14 or17mm allen never once got it off with an impact only a breaker bar.
Or one that you might be familiar with is the King Pins the 7/8 allen will not budge with a impact but got them out with a breaker bar.

I wasn't saying an impact wrench will not get it off but a breaker bar definitely will just need a little elbow grease and a lot cheaper. I did say to use a pipe wrench to hold the yoke. I guess the backing up thing would work but I would prefer not to, you still need to have a way to tighten the nut too.

A good Impact wrench a must for every tool box along with a breaker bar, Impact wrenches are great when you cannot hold the other side from spinning.

I've never used a 3/4 or 1inch gun but If you read the specs they need a larger feed air line the normal air line will just choke off the gun's power.

One last thing on the D60 yoke make sure you put some silicone under the nut or it will leak out past the splines, unless you can find one of those funky O-rings.
Also stake the nut (remake the lock nut with a punch and hammer) and use loctite, you don't want that coming loose.
Or better yet do what DrThunder said and get a new nut.

xjunker:
The pinion preload is set with shims on most Dana 60 the shims go where the crush sleeve would go so no matter how hard you crank down the pinion nut it will not change the pinion preload.

However if it did have a crush sleeve (I don't know which ones do) you would be 100% correct.

Every shim kit I got for a D60 comes with both a crush sleeve and shims I always use the shims it takes longer but you don't have anything to worry about anything when you change out the yoke. They also make crush sleeve eliminators for every axle just something to keep in mind.

So the real question is did you swap out the yoke yet so we can stop this thread?

I had a hard time finding a socket that fits the impacts were all to thick so an hour at the grinding wheel got it to fit.

[Havoc319]

Gotta chime in on this one. I have yet to find a pinion nut i could not get off with an impact gun.
CRUSHING a crush sleve on a 14bolt or 8.8 is not going to happen with an impact gun unless it has been started than MAYBE but usually not enough grunt to do it unless its a really THIN crush sleve or a 3/4 drive impact gun... Ive bent alot of stuff doing crush sleves. Made a few plates and braker bars to do it.

Getting a nut off and on, I have a 3/4 drive socket i machined down a good amount. about an 1/8 to fit and a 3/4 to 1/2 adaptor. Anyway an impact gun, if its a good one, should get it pull it off. When your done, zap it back on.
Just give the yoke a little spin before you pull it apart and than after its together to just make sure nothing changed and now its bound up. Iver never seen it but just check the length of the seal area on one yoke to the stock one to make sure its not TOO long or too short..

I would think about getting a new nut, But should not be that much of a problem. Ive taken the nut and put it on the table and given the tap with the hammer to dimple the top thread so you can start it and the last thread is a little off making a lock nut, OR when its on, take a punch and tap it. Should be fine. Ive done it on Low pinion d30s with a crush sleve and not messed up the preload going from the CV shaft to a yoke on a grand. Not a big deal. With a crush sleve an inch LB torque wrench would be nice to check it with but its no big deal.
Never needed to put the car in drive to pull the nut off but a good trail situation fix! I have done the braker bar and moved the car up a ramp. lol. Almost pulled a car off a lift crushing a sleve on a car once.

[Even]

We will see what happens, i didn't have the time to try any of the above yet, i will get back to you all.

[Shane]

when i did mine, pipe wrench around the yoke, let it hit the spring and then got the 1 inch ratchet that i have for tractor trailers and put some ass behind it and came off. put new one on, repeat by allowing the pipe wrench hit the other spring.

[Even]

I just re-torqued the nut, but now when you turn the yoke back and forth, it slides in and out about 1/4 inch like there is play in the gears. What gives?

[Wide-J]

The yoke slides in and out or the yoke moves clockwise/counter clockwise? The clockwise/counter clockwise is normal (its called backlash). You should have had some backlash from the beginning. It is normal and needed.

[Even]

As i rotate the yoke clockwise with my hand the yoke slides about 1/4" out of the pinion towards the front of the jeep. The pinion nut is cranked all the way down.