8.8 swap questions and stuff

[cherokee-at-16]

Alright, I have been thinking about an 8.8 swap and how much it would cost in the end.
so, How much does a used 8.8 cost? cause i cant find it online.

Then I began thinking about gear and just threw out 4.88's which would be like $300 for the gears and install kits, plus $400 for install. Then theres the adapter flange which is about $30. Then new brakes another $100 and a better cover (solid to match the front) $80. Then theres all the brackets and shock mounts, which you could buy for like $165 from M.O.R.E. or make and weld them on myself for cheaper but its easier to buy. They theres the time to clean it up and spray some paint, $10 for paint and flap wheel.

All of that stuff totals to $1085 plus lets say 10 hours of my own labor.

While looking online I found East Coast Gear Supply, Where I could get all this

Ford 8.8 Rear Axle Bolt In XJ Assembly ($500)
Adapter Flange Driveshaft: NEW (+$30.00)
ADD DIFF COVER: SOLID COVER (+$75.00)
ADD POSI: Used Factory Limited Slip (+$50.00)
Brake Options: New Pads/Rotors/Ebrake shoes (+$115.00)
FINISH: Flat Black
Reman Unit with New Gears: F8.8- 4.88 (+$500.00)
Shaft Options: Good Used Shafts

This totals to $1270 and $200 for handling. so $1470 to my door.
there is a $385 difference meaning building my own axle would only be cheaper if i found a limited slip 8.8 for under $385.

So since I don't know the cost of one i cant tell which one would be cheaper in the end. Does this company look like a good deal?

[LittleD]

the actual 8.8 will be no more than 300 delivered, got mine i think for $150

[cherokee-at-16]

the actual 8.8 will be no more than 300 delivered, got mine i think for $150

where?

Also, so $385 is pretty high. How are 4.10's on 33's compared to 4.56 or 4.88?
I only looked as this option because with the gears installed it seems worth it. Do you think I could find a 8.8 with 4.10's and ls?


It would cost like $700 re-gear the rear axle I have. So I would be paying the extra $700 for the build axle for a strength upgrade, diff cover,new brakes- A rear disc brake conversion none-the-less , and the flange

[clean4drxj]

if you can swing buying it already built.. go for it, if not then call chuck n eddies and buy yourself an 8.8 for under 250(provided they have an 8.8 with 4.10s) and order the simple swap kit from ruffstuff and source out the rest of the stuff and you'll end up saving money plus you"ll be able to set a better pinion angle. But to do this yourself you're going to need the proper tools, welder, diegrinder, beltsander ect. I'm very anal when I do something so unless it's done right... I wont do it!

[cherokee-at-16]

i just cant see regearing to only 4.10. same money kinda but not the same result

[CumminsJeep]

I think I spent no more then 600 bucks when i built mine. that was with the Ruff Stuff 8.8 swap kit, spool, Ruff stuff cover, all new pads and rotors, all new e brake shoes/hardware.

that was with 4.10s tho. you are pretty much spending an extra 800-900 bucks for 4.88s instead of 4.10s. not to mention its only a limited slip. if you build it yourself, you can do it for under a grand with a good locker.

[Henchman]

x2 on what andrew said. I got my TJ built 8.8 for $600. It had 4.10s, welded, all brackets setup and goodie brakes on it. I ran it for awhile and when I went to 4.88s it was roughly $900ish

Chuck and Eddies in southington, theres like 100 Exploders. You pull it yourself. $150
Do it up
I'd stick with the 4.10s for now until you think you're really going to need the lower gears

[clean4drxj]

x2 on what andrew said. I got my TJ built 8.8 for $600. It had 4.10s, welded, all brackets setup and goodie brakes on it. I ran it for awhile and when I went to 4.88s it was roughly $900ish

Chuck and Eddies in southington, theres like 100 Exploders. You pull it yourself. $150
Do it up
I'd stick with the 4.10s for now until you think you're really going to need the lower gears

I had called there a few months ago and they had no 8.8 w/4.10s

[cherokee-at-16]

What would I need to pull it from the junkyard, undue the brake line, the u bolts, and drive shaft. Anyone know what the code for 4.10's and ls. I want the Ls because I don't have money for a locker and its better then open (funny saying this when I started the thread with a $1400 axle assembly).

[clean4drxj]

I dont know the code but owen knows it and trust me... go for the open diff, with the LSD you can't lock it down the road and offroad LSD's suck trust me I have a factory traclock in my dana44.

[cherokee-at-16]

I dont know the code but owen knows it and trust me... go for the open diff, with the LSD you can't lock it down the road and offroad LSD's suck trust me I have a factory traclock in my dana44.

did not know that, why is that? Not being able to find one is why I looked at the complete assemblies in the first place

[Magilla]

http://www.kifourwheelers.com/forum/...p?topic=2955.0

[OWEN]

Over the summer I did a 4"lift and 33" tires on my daily driver YJ, I was going to swap in axles from a 4cylinder YJ, but the rear dana 35 had a broken side gear, so I decided to swap in an 8.8

Best thing to do is go to Chuck and Eddies in Southington and pull it yourself. I bought mine there for $100. If you pull it yourself you can make sure you get all of the brake hoses, U bolts and Ebrake cables, I even grabbed the flange from the end of the driveshaft... Everything was $100 (plus tax). It costs $1 to get in, it helps also to have a friend. So total cost to obtain it was $100, $6 tax, $2 to get me and my friend in (clean4drxj) and $25 for a 30 pack of bud light as a token of thanks to my friend for helping carry tools and stuff. You will need to bring a Jack, a decent assortment of metric tools and other misc tools, and some PB blaster. It takes about an hour to pull if you have the right tools. If you go on a weekday the loader operators can bring it up to the office, if not find some tires and put them on it and roll it. Before you bring all of your tools in take a walk around and find the best one with the ratio you want, so you are not dragging all of your tools around looking for it.

8.8s use a flange thing to to attach the driveshaft. Instead of a traditional yoke on the axle there is a flat flange, and then there is a flanged end that goes on the driveshaft end U joint and bolts to the flange on the axle... hope that makes sense... The stock ones on the explorers are all 1330, so you might have to order a 1310 version, they are like $25 bucks if you shop around.

For rebuilding it I bought new pads, rotors, E brake shoes, and wheel seals from Rock Auto, also about $100 bucks. Also a good idea to get some new 3/16"brake line and make new brake lines.

I bought E brake cables from ECGS, for the swap, altough I still haven't gotten my ebrake to work all the well, I should probably try a little harder. The cables were $75 or so.

I bought the Ruff Stuff swap kit. I think it is a good value. If you are a PBB member, check the venders section for discount codes when you order the kit to save a couple bucks.

All in all I got the thing in there for around $500 or so with brake fluid and gear oil. I wound up replacing an axle shaft after driving all summer, it had worn on the wheel bearing surface. I went from 3.07's with P235/75R15s to 4.10's with 33X10.50R15s. My jeep is is a 5 speed and it was a huge difference it drives like a sports car now compare to the old gearing. It cruises around 2500RPM compared to 1900 before, but its better because you are not downshifting into 4th on the highway at all. Wheeling at crawls pretty well, better than before. I am a little spoiled with 100:1ish crawl in my trail rig but I am very happy with it for being an economical swap with great results. Hope this was helpful for ya and good luck.

[OWEN]

Also if you call Chuck and Eddies, they will only tell you what they have on the shelf, if you want to pull it yourself you have to go to yard and find it. And if you fin it but don't feel like pulling it yourself, its like $100 more for them to do it.

[konastinky1234]

heres your codes:


Axle tag codes:

3L73 = 3.73 LS

4 10 = 4.10 open

4L10 = 4.10 LS

and so on



i went through the whole process as well. overall it wasn't too bad. chuck and eddies sold me my 8.8 off the shelf for 220$. i got ruffstuff brackets which were pieced together by the people there since they did not have a full kit yet for a tj swap. brackets were the toughest part because i had to do extra work to make them all work.

you will find the gear ratio you want in chuck and eddies if you just bide your time a bit. be sure not to rush it too much.

also, my biggest mistake was putting the brake calipers on upside down once i got the axle in. took me about 4 days to figure out the problem, it was maddening. such a dumb mistake too. watch out for little things like that.

good luck!

p.s. stu-offroad.com has a TON of great pictures and help for every step of the way on this swap. granted it is done on a TJ but the XJ should be simpler and it'll have alot of great pictures to help you.