BUJILDING A FRONT WAGGY DANA 44

[Bigbike]

Yeah I got that far, and my budget is not much at all. Im going to be order 4.56 thick gears, a Spartan locker, brackets from ballistc and Clayton. Shafts and steering im going to deal with later this year.

[OWEN]

Ok, in all seriousness. What you need

Ring & Pinion
Install Kit
Axleshaft U joints
Brakes
Ball Joints
Brackets to install
Steering
Locking hubs
Spindle Nut Socket

For a cherokee owner probably the biggest part of the swap is installing the axle brackets for suspension attachment. I did this on my friend Pete's Dana 60. The most important things are getting the axle centered and the caster correct. If you don't have adjustable control arms, there isn't much room for error.

Get one of these, Home Depot or Sears have them


There are many ways to do it. Setup your old axle next to the new and take some measurements. Find the center of the axles and measure how far from the center the control arms need to mount. What I have done in the pas on D44s to figure out the caster is put a piece of round stock (threaded rod) through the upper and lower ball joint mounting holes on the inner "C's". That will give you a pretty good idea of where your caster is at. You can probably do the same with your d30 to reference it. It is not an exact science, but I have always used 5-11 degrees of positive caster (top ball joint slightly tilted toward the rear) You want some but not excessive, it is basically what gives your steering the "return to center" and keeps it from wandering. You may have to find a happy compromise between pinion angle and caster, as you increase your caster positively you will be tilting your pinion down. People who cannot find a good compromise have to cut and rotate their inner C's. I don't think you will need to do that.

I would replace the ball joints unless they are newish. The first d44 I built had what felt to be tight ball joints and with 35s they were toast in about 2 months. I never used any special tools to do them. To remove the knuckles from the axle, loosen the two big nuts on the ball joints and tap on the inner "C" around where the ball joint tapered shaft goes through. It is way more effective then hitting the knuckle or ball joint shaft, just watch your toes when it falls. The just pound them out of the knuckle.

I would go online and order some spicer 5-760 U joints (minimum) if you are going to run stock shafts for a while. It seems like no parts stores carry spicer joints, and personally I think they are superior to any parts store joint. I think with 35s and a good set of u joints and a smart right foot, you can make stock shafts hold up for a while, if alloys are not in your budget. You may have to get creative. I started to tack weld the c clips and u joint caps on my 44 shafts because they always seemed to work their way out after a while. If you don't do that at least keep an eye on them, if the cap starts to come out and you dont catch it, you are pretty much doomed for breakage.

Steering kits are availible for some very reasonable prices, Check out PartsMike or Ballistic Fab.

Buy all new brakes (at least calipers and pads) The calipers are the same as 1/2 ton Chevy, inexpensive, especially if you have a core. In my experience they love to seize up, so I would start with a fresh set.

Buy a spindle nut tool for 14.99. Don't be like some of my friends who spend 800 on building an axle and have to borrow a tool to take it apart.

Everone says to get Warn Premium hubs. I was never that impressed with them but you will have to make your own judgement. The nice thing about d44s if you can buy locking hubs for under $100.

Good luck, hope that was helpful.

[Bigbike]

Thanks Owen!

[Riot]

Hey Caleb, hit me up on AIM when you get a chance, in regards to this.

[Buffalo Phil]

Hey Caleb, hit me up on AIM when you get a chance, in regards to this.

Why are you building a front 44 too?

[customcreationsllc]

I agree with Owen, great post.

You do know the weak point U-joint is the same on the D30 and D44.

Warn premium hubs only have a fancy metal lever everything the important parts that transmit the torque are the same.

One thought your signature says you have a XJ d44 rear axle then you are 5 on 4.5 at best you can get with hubs on a D44 is 5 on 5.5 and I think most waggys are 6 on 5.5 so you will need adapters and new wheels. Plus waggys are Low Pinions axles if I remember correct.
All that could cost your more than going a different route.

I think a good D44 axle would be to find a HP 44 like from a late 70's F150-250.
Take your existing D30 axle cut of the tubes and weld in the HP44 housing you should only need to replace one mount and you can set your pinion angle to whatever you need. The axle will work until you have money to get these axles www.rcvperformance.com.
Pirate tested search Pirate they are stronger than stock D60 axles.
They don't fit on Hub axles only unit bearing axles.

You can buy a D44 center housing if you have the money.

This will keep you 5 on 4.5 and the same width.

If you really think you need more strength then go with D60 not all the much more to build and a lot stronger, you will not regret it and if you do it will be worth a lot more than a D44.
This is actually what I'm building for a front axle for my buggy I have everything but the money.

I don't want to discourage you I just want to help direct you in the best direction.

[Wide-J]

After building a Waggy 44 and then building a Dana 60, looking back, I would have never spent the money on a 44. I really never thought I would need more than a 44, and I never broke a shaft with a 360 and 37's. But, my need to upgrade for "invincibility" was calling. In all seriousness, if you think that eventually you may want a 60, even if it is in 2 years from now, don’t even bother with a 44 and build a 60. I threw a bit of money into Clayton brackets, Chevy spindles, calipers, rotors, bearings, gears, locker, hubs that would have been somewhat comparable to a 60 since all of that stuff was needed on a 60. The investment into a 60 is a tough cost to initially swallow sometimes and parts are more expensive. However the price you pay to upgrade to a stronger axle is well worth it than building a 44 and selling it to pay for a 60 you are building. You never get your investment back from what you put into it.
Unfortunately then you must consider rear axle options which is a whole new ball of wax. Just my $ .02 from building the exact same thing.

[grundlepunch]

After building a Waggy 44 and then building a Dana 60, looking back, I would have never spent the money on a 44. I really never thought I would need more than a 44, and I never broke a shaft with a 360 and 37's. But, my need to upgrade for "invincibility" was calling. In all seriousness, if you think that eventually you may want a 60, even if it is in 2 years from now, don’t even bother with a 44 and build a 60. I threw a bit of money into Clayton brackets, Chevy spindles, calipers, rotors, bearings, gears, locker, hubs that would have been somewhat comparable to a 60 since all of that stuff was needed on a 60. The investment into a 60 is a tough cost to initially swallow sometimes and parts are more expensive. However the price you pay to upgrade to a stronger axle is well worth it than building a 44 and selling it to pay for a 60 you are building. You never get your investment back from what you put into it.
Unfortunately then you must consider rear axle options which is a whole new ball of wax. Just my $ .02 from building the exact same thing.

i run this axle. i love it, i have no problems with it.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Just playing devils advocate here but the D60 pumpkin does hand a lot lower then the D44. Sacrifice for strength I guess

[DrThunder]

Build the ultimate... Dana 44 hp with 60 outers

[Ktmracer419]

I DO NOT WANT all that unsprung weight. I wouldnt mind it if I was crawling all the time. But it takes alot to keep a full bodied xj on tons in one piece/ handle comfortably if you like speed.

i would entertain a hp44 with 60 outers though

ultimate would be a 9" center

but now this thread is hella off track

[Bigbike]

Idk what im doing yet, ill figure it out then I guess. Thank you for all the info!

[Zullock Holmes]

Build the ultimate... Dana 44 hp with 60 outers

twats what i am doing kinda.

I have a hp 44 outta a ford f150 with the cast wedges, so i'm ditching the axle tubes, gearing and spooling the diff, gonna order new inner c's and use the 44 knuckles. The cool thing about staying with the knuckles i have already is cause i have 2 sets of hubs, one is 8 lug and one is 5 lug, so i can change them depending on the lug pattern i want to run or what i'm running in the rear.

I'm gonna run waggy inners, to get the width i want and run them with the ford outers. Chromo's when money allows for it.

although i will entertain the ideas of running 60 outers, if i can find a front 60 to donate them for cheap, hahaha.

[Ktmracer419]

twats what i am doing kinda.

I have a hp 44 outta a ford f150 with the cast wedges, so i'm ditching the axle tubes, gearing and spooling the diff, gonna order new inner c's and use the 44 knuckles. The cool thing about staying with the knuckles i have already is cause i have 2 sets of hubs, one is 8 lug and one is 5 lug, so i can change them depending on the lug pattern i want to run or what i'm running in the rear.

I'm gonna run waggy inners, to get the width i want and run them with the ford outers. Chromo's when money allows for it.

although i will entertain the ideas of running 60 outers, if i can find a front 60 to donate them for cheap, hahaha.

use chevy 60 outers

chevy 60's can be had for 200-400 regularly. you can get 35 spline detroits,ox's, and arb's for 44's and run 60 shafts. the only grey area would be the inner axle seals, but I'm sure somebody has figured that out by now

[Zullock Holmes]

do you kno if i can find a 35 spline spool for a 44??

The goal right now is to make something on budget that will allow me to run 35's and even 37's with confidence. I feel like to 60 shafts that size, they will have to be custom length which is a grand and i could see this project getting really expensive, really quick.

sorry for hi-jacking your thread here caleb buddy