Finally making those long arms...

[Ktmracer419]

anything good to say about the clayton 3 link?

[Zullock Holmes]

being built now, tj and lj 3 links are a huge success.

you should be seeing the XJ one within a couple of weeks.

[CumminsJeep]

300 more than your creeeky rough country ones... still saying that buddy

Im still saying it too

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Clayton 3 link = mine

I agree with Clayton-in-Training (Zullo). With something like arms I wouldnt screw around and `see if things work`. If the day ever comes around that you find out it doesnt work pray your best case is a Jeep on 2 wheels. If somethings happens that you hurt yourself or someone else I would not want that on my head just because I was too cheap to fork over some extra cash for a decent set of arms. Think about it.

[LittleD]

Ok, im going to start looking for tubing after being told by another person to go at least 1/4 wall. What tubing should i get DOM? what size? how much should i buy ( im building just lower arms).

Is there any difference between radius arms and long arms? they seem like the same thing to me.


Edit: Is two 4 foot sections of 1.75" X .250" Wall DOM Tubing good enough? i can get it to my door for $127.32

[justtorchit]

Ok, im going to start looking for tubing after being told by another person to go at least 1/4 wall. What tubing should i get DOM? what size? how much should i buy ( im building just lower arms).

Is there any difference between radius arms and long arms? they seem like the same thing to me.


Edit: Is two 4 foot sections of 1.75" X .250" Wall DOM Tubing good enough? i can get it to my door for $127.32

thats what i am using for my arms..... i got ten feet for 75 bucks. i think you can get RE style joints and wutnot to weld on so you can have a larger shank because the joint threads on, opposed to threading in (thats if your worried about the size of the joint used, just try to use 1 inch or 1.25 inch thread).
if i did it again i would go with 2 inch by 1/4, this way ya can run a 1.25 shank with weld in bungs easily. or id go with 2x2 .25 wall box just cuz i like the look.

radius arms are arms that when drooped or stuffed make the axle go in an arc because the axle travels in the arc of a circle relative to where the arms are mounted. yes they are long arms cuz.... well.... usually the arms are long.

[LittleD]

Andy, where did you get your steel? gonna call the local steel place tomorrow and see if i can price match a little.

[justtorchit]

Andy, where did you get your steel? gonna call the local steel place tomorrow and see if i can price match a little.

well, ya probably wont find a deal like i got.... but if ur ambitious, my favorite place to go for steel is randomn scrap yards. usually they have a couple racks of stuff they save. and if ya pick thru ya can find the goooooood stuff. and then you only pay for the weight.... which is alot cheaper than logan, because a dollar a pound really isnt that great of a deal sometimes

[LittleD]

Great, the place down the street can't get me anything with 1/4 in wall unless i go with 2.5 od which is way to thick imo for im doing. Gonna go to logan next weekend and shop around.

[LittleD]

Bump:

Looked at Dillons cross member setup for his long arms that dave built. Gonna go for a high clearance mounting point on the x member
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...bs_p_1643.html


I can get everything that i need to build these completely for $267 shipped, all i need to do is source some material for stiffners/xmember mounting.

Im going to take everyones advise and get 1.75" OD .25" wall 1.5" ID dom tubing and keep them a straight piece and not bend them for clearance.
Production will start after i go to logans next weekend and do some last minute looking.

[LittleD]

I figure that im going to start construction on the x member throughout the week, the main question i have is, do i have to recess a spot for the transmission mount or can i leave the top of the boxing flat?

[Ktmracer419]

I figure that im going to start construction on the x member throughout the week, the main question i have is, do i have to recess a spot for the transmission mount or can i leave the top of the boxing flat?

depends on how you mount the crossmember to the body.

iirc if you mount the 2x6 with the top on the bottom of the framerails you are in pretty good shape to have the tranny mount sit on top without issue.

I have always built mine (2 er em') higher clearance than stock and had nothing but 1/4" of steel below the rails. i then cut out some of the 2x6 and made a little platform inside (so i didnt have the studs sticking out the bottom) this raised the t-case about an inch or so...

[LittleD]

Ok, im getting a lot of ideas from daves xmember, and his is recessed like the others that i have seen. Im going do the x member, and try to work something out to use my warn tcase skid.

[Ktmracer419]

Ok, im getting a lot of ideas from daves xmember, and his is recessed like the others that i have seen. Im going do the x member, and try to work something out to use my warn tcase skid.

my 2 cents:

eff the warn skid. and build a belly pan off of the crossmember

sell warn skid, make bank

[justtorchit]

Im going to take everyones advise and get 1.75" OD .25" wall 1.5" ID dom tubing

Que.....