Finally making those long arms...

[LittleD]

Im in the process of ordering the joints/ bracketry, the thing is, the id of my tubing is 1 5/16 and i wanna get as close to that as possible for the tube adapter. Any idea on who would make a size like that for 12 tpi?

[justtorchit]

Use that for tube for ur upper arms and use 1" joints. then grab like 5 feet of 2" 1/4 wall for the lowers and use 1.25" joints for the lowers...... KISS method......

[LittleD]

This is more than big enough for the lowers imo. Im not making the uppers, im using my re adjustables

[justtorchit]

This is more than big enough for the lowers imo. Im not making the uppers, im using my re adjustables

Well the best ull find is prolly bungs for 1.25 ID tube and use a 1 inch thread. Or machine out the tube to 1.5 ID to slide a larger bung in....

Either option is less than ideal imo

[LittleD]

Ordered all the brackets and just need to order the jhonny joints, Ballistic fab has a delivery date of 1 week from today .

[Ktmracer419]

Ballistic fab has a delivery date of 1 week from today .

good luck

[LittleD]

Got all my shit in one week as planned, only thing that i didn't get was the weldable bushings which Nathan over at ballistic told me to call this afternoon and have two set aside for me... So far im loving there level of business. Got my Jhonny joints yesterday, and holy fuck are they huge. Gotta wait on one more thing and then im gonna start tacking up everything.

Edit: Also ordered a 1 1/2 drill bit from northern tool for around 40 bucks which should be here hopefully early next week.

[LittleD]

Ended up having someone drill out the tubing to 1.5 and got all my parts ready to be welded. Cross member is on but im not happy with how low it sits so im gonna take out my xmember drop

[justtorchit]

Im still saying put the johnny joint on the crossmember..... those pollys are gonna be goneeeee. Unless you have the tabs backwards. looks good tho

[LittleD]

I think your confusing the pic, the jhonnys are on the xmember side, and the rubbers will be on the side that isn't notched yet.

[justtorchit]

That's why I originally said that your tabs are backwards haha then I edited cuz I remember u said something bout running the poly on the x member.... me confused.....


So flip your tabs around.

[LittleD]

Being that these are goin in tomorrow/monday, what should i set my pinion angle at? Around +6ish?

[Zullock Holmes]

Being that these are goin in tomorrow/monday, what should i set my pinion angle at? Around +6ish?

no.

Set your caster between 4 and 5 degrees, your pinion angle will be close enough.

with a d30 there is no way to get your caster angle and pinion angle perfect. because you can't rotate the two independent of one another.

Basically to have a perfect pinion angle your caster will be way off and to have a perfect caster your pinion angle will be way off, you need to find the happy medium of this.

Unless you are changing your lift height, going from longarms or short arms shouldn't change how your front axle is set. Assuming the angles are correct now, none of them should change.


Also, easiest way to set everything...... quickly,
1. lower arms on, uppers disconnected
2. tires back on the axle, vehicle sitting at ride height under its own weight
3. put a bottle jack under the pinion, use a digital angle gauge on the bottom of the inner c.
4. once the angle is ideal, adjusted the uppers so they bolt in relatively easily.
5. remove the bottle jack and tighten everything up, you'll be all good to go.

[LittleD]

The reason im trying to set that is cause my passenger side coil bows towards the front of the jeep pretty badly.

On a side note, the passenger side is done, drivers side just needs to have the upper welded on.

[LittleD]

There finally in, tested em out by flexing on the top of a jersey barrier. Holy fuck it rides sooo much better than the short arms did, and now the front sits even with the back if not taller.


Pics will go up tomorrow