Link Setups

[justtorchit]

alright.. so ive been playin around with the 3 link calculator and wat not, and im trying to find wat a good anti squat setup would be...

basicly do i want a low number or a higher number....
any help would be much appreciated.
thnx

[DrThunder]

Wat are you looking for, wat is he talking about? I don't know wat the hell is going on in here.



Wat

[HitItWithSomeSpeed]

you know, with all the fucking threads on the interweb about those damn link calculator numbers and what good Numbers should be, you think someone would update the calculator software with an explaination sheet attached.

[HeavyMetal]

u want a lower anti squat medoesthink

[justtorchit]

well im under the impression that lower is better... but how low is a good number...
i can get my jeep down to about 78 and have a good 3 link setup it seams....

[XJLI]

4 Bar Link Calculator Version 3.0 Tutorial

Let's start with the Vehicle Specifications.
Most of these should be obvious. If they aren’t don’t read any farther.
Vehicle CG Height: To measure this you will need access to some accurate scales. See www.jeepaholics.com for the procedure. A quick guestimate is to measure the top bell housing bolt height from the ground. This way however, is an approximate of the Sprung Mass CG Height (2nd tab).
Unsprung Mass: With the wheels on the ground this is everything that does not move if you bounce the body of the vehicle up and down. Some parts will have one end that will move up and down and one end that will not (like shocks or the links themselves). These parts are generally considered with half of their mass as unsprung mass. The best way to measure this is to unbolt the parts (tire/wheel, rear axle, shocks, etc.), weigh them individually, and add them all up.

Park your vehicle on level ground
Remove the rear tires and support the axle with jack stands at operating height if you need the clearance to climb under the vehicle
Use a plumb bob from the center of the axle tube to the ground on each side of the vehicle. Mark these points with chalk on the ground and draw a line between them.
Measure the distance between the marks, divide by two and mark the center. Now use a large square to mark a line under the center of the vehicle or do the same thing in the front and connect the dots.

Now start looking for places to put your links. When you find places you like drop the plumb bob from there. Measure from the transverse line (the one under the rear axle) to where the plumb bob meets the ground. This is your “X” value. Now measure from the longitudinal line (front to back down the center) to where the plumb bob meets the ground. This is your “Y” value. Now measure the length of the plumb bob from the point you picked for the suspension to mount to the ground. This is your “Z” value. Do this for both ends of both links on one side of the vehicle.

After you have these measurements (some basic and some far from it) enter them all into the light blue cells on the main page.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showp...3&postcount=21

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=460091

[justtorchit]

the second thread is wat i was looking for... thnx

[justtorchit]

while im at it.... this is eye candy....
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...hlight=link+xj

wat im going for except upper on pass side

[Ktmracer419]

most people shoot for a 50-100

some is good

alot is bad

[Havoc319]

What i have come up with, If the links are flat and the number is close to 0, than it will be neutral. Meaning when you give it gas, it should hold and not squat or raise.

Some like to have alot of lift. Mud, flat rock, so that the truck pulls the front end.
Hill climbs, you want the nose to squat and the rear to lift. Keeps you from nosing over.

Race cars, want the front to lift, rear to squat. For some reason brain fart, but i dont know if that is negative or positive squat.

in wheeling, depends on the area you wheel the most. If you want the nose to lift or squat or stay the same. Personally I leave it neutral. Closest to 0. Positive and it will lift i think, negative and it will squat, under accelaration. But if its like 100 or more you will notice the difference. so either -100 or +100 or more to really see the handeling difference.

[Ktmracer419]

i have read that anti squat is good in the front end.

what happens when you give it gas is the axle separates from the body, this can be good in a way that it pushes your front axle down to get better traction, but bad in a way it makes your front end light.

[Havoc319]

i have read that anti squat is good in the front end.

what happens when you give it gas is the axle separates from the body, this can be good in a way that it pushes your front axle down to get better traction, but bad in a way it makes your front end light.

Right. It can make it good in some situations, bad in others. Hill climbs, you dont want it to move. Others, it might be a good thing.

Best thing to do is build it with variable mounting points so if you want to, just pull a bolt and move the links higher or lower and see.

[OWEN]

I am shooting for 80-90% in the rear, double triangulated 4 link.

[stinky]

Right. It can make it good in some situations, bad in others. Hill climbs, you dont want it to move. Others, it might be a good thing.

Best thing to do is build it with variable mounting points so if you want to, just pull a bolt and move the links higher or lower and see.

thats what a suck down winch is for

[Havoc319]

thats what a suck down winch is for

That to! Or Use your regular winch to suck down the front end from unloading. Just mount a ring on the axle to hook to that is out of the way.. I like the idea of having a spair winch for that, But i dont like it. The fact that its just something else to brake or get in the way. But its a nice part if you build for it. Do it right. But ive never used one? lol