Project Green Monster

[Magilla]

the things on the end of the axle tubes where the spindle bolts to are the c's

[WickedXJ]

you dont need a different lift to go lower. just take out the 2in portion of your lift and you should be sitting at 6, maybe a bit lower if its sagged

2" is out on the front as for the back...the upper shackle bolts have the nuts free spinning on the other side and need to take some drastic action to fix it.

[jeepbogger4x4]

you dont need a different lift to go lower. just take out the 2in portion of your lift and you should be sitting at 6, maybe a bit lower if its sagged

[WickedXJ]

Honestly there is no need for anything really bigger than 36" tires in this area. Also under 5" you will not need to cut and rotate the c's on the 44 front.

Yea everyone seems to agree with this and I had a friend lend me a 39 to gauge size and it is INSANE it is WAY to big. He bought it for a show piece hoping to sell a set at the shop but no one even shows interest in anything over 35"s so I am going to have to concede and say that I will only be getting 35"s or 36"s but 36"s have a more limited selection of tires so probably 35"s. But for now the 6" is on the front and it will stay there until I have the $ to get something different. And what are the c's you are referring to?

[Magilla]

Drop down a few inches of lift like under 5". We built a xj with 4.5" and 38" tsls on 44 front and 8.8 rear BUT if breaks CONSTANTLY Honestly there is no need for anything really bigger than 36" tires in this area. Also under 5" you will not need to cut and rotate the c's on the 44 front.

[WickedXJ]

This happened on the trail the other day...as predicted by R.J.
She stopped starting and I blew EVERY single u-joint on her going down a mountain with a BMC that fucked it self. Oh and the engine would not start. Finally got it to but she was coughing at idle though was fine doing 70mph on the way home. So I have everything to rebuild her I can do it...I can make her stronger...I have the technology. So anyway I took most of the top end of the engine apart today and got most of the big gunk off and am soaking everything in HD degreaser. Also found a vacuum hose in 4 pieces so I am hoping that is the idle problem and found at least 1/4" of general shit clogged in the very upper end of the engine which is now all over my garage floor. So once that gets back in new U-joints (lifetime warranty so FREE!) and back out on the trail soon! OH and a logan steel bumper is on the way got a GREAT deal on it!

[WickedXJ]

Are they both Waggy 44s?

Yes they are.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Frankly I am getting both 44's for basically free so anything else would definitely be a major price difference.

Are they both Waggy 44s?

[Zullock Holmes]

Why is that?

A front 60 certainly would cost more.

But, not really in a rear application. You can pick up full float rear 60's or 14 bolts for dirt cheap. Gears cost the same, shafts cost about the same, lockers cost about the same, in the end it's pretty damn similar.

The amount you gain in the strength department outweighs any slight amount of price difference IMO. Once you go above 36-37" tire, it just makes sense to go to a 1-ton rear.

x2. non steering 60's are relatively the same cost to build as a 44.

[WickedXJ]

The amount you gain in the strength department outweighs any slight amount of price difference IMO.

Frankly I am getting both 44's for basically free so anything else would definitely be a major price difference.

[Even]

a dana60 would cost more than a 44 to "build"

Why is that?

A front 60 certainly would cost more.

But, not really in a rear application. You can pick up full float rear 60's or 14 bolts for dirt cheap. Gears cost the same, shafts cost about the same, lockers cost about the same, in the end it's pretty damn similar.

The amount you gain in the strength department outweighs any slight amount of price difference IMO. Once you go above 36-37" tire, it just makes sense to go to a 1-ton rear.

[Magilla]

And yea I am running 8+" without an SYE becuase of some advice from a complete moron, who was very persuasive at the time. T

Putting 6 on the roof, 2 on the bumper, and 2 on the rear as reverse lights. Have 10 on there now but looking at 12 though they are obviously smaller than Daylighters but I can make it work.

I am hopefully going to super 44's with the 33 spline if I can afford it.

[clean4drxj]

a dana60 would cost more than a 44 to "build"

[Even]

Thanks for the advice I think that may wind up what I may do becuase I talked to the guy I am getting the axles from today and looked at my bank account and well...I am still looking at a "new" 44 rear and getting a 44 front but I will need to fab the mounts for it and I just don't trust my welding skills to weld the structural parts so I'm looking at an additional $100 at least to put in on but seeing as how my 30 is pretty much entirely shot (only working thing is a new u-joint) the 44 is in better shape so it will be at least cost efficient if anything. So basically by late September I am hoping to have a new bumper, rear locker, 44's in, 4.11 gears, SYE, and drive shaft, tube doors, psc steering box, t-case skid plate, and full rust removal. all using the money from my Camaro sale. BTW update doors are back on until I can get the tube doors set and ready because I will not be near it for at least a week or two so I don't want to have to worry about the "cover".

A 33 spline D44 rear isn't very cost effective, especially if you plan on running a 37" or larger tire. All opinions aside, you can easily have yourself a built D60 or 14bolt rear for around the same price as a built D44.

[WickedXJ]

nice jeep man, do like the 2 door






but hate to throw your idea down but a dana 44 even with 94 splines couldnt handle 39s.

like yea you could probally drive around town but.. i would gess if you have 39s then you be wheelin some serious shit an drive like foot is made outa lead.

best bet is to stay with 35s or under. locked 30-44 combo an you will be able to go through more shit than you could think of, an still be pretty reliable an not have to work at nasa to afford it.

Thanks for the advice I think that may wind up what I may do becuase I talked to the guy I am getting the axles from today and looked at my bank account and well...I am still looking at a "new" 44 rear and getting a 44 front but I will need to fab the mounts for it and I just don't trust my welding skills to weld the structural parts so I'm looking at an additional $100 at least to put in on but seeing as how my 30 is pretty much entirely shot (only working thing is a new u-joint) the 44 is in better shape so it will be at least cost efficient if anything. So basically by late September I am hoping to have a new bumper, rear locker, 44's in, 4.11 gears, SYE, and drive shaft, tube doors, psc steering box, t-case skid plate, and full rust removal. all using the money from my Camaro sale. BTW update doors are back on until I can get the tube doors set and ready because I will not be near it for at least a week or two so I don't want to have to worry about the "cover".