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My 1950 Willys Trail Rig

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  • OWEN
    replied
    Rejected the front shaft again today... this time it grenaded at the splines.

    Bead locks worked nice, wheeled all day @4psi front 3psi rear

    Leave a comment:


  • OWEN
    replied
    Originally posted by Jeepbonehead View Post
    nice beadlocks, finally so wheeling pics!! now if i could do the same
    There are some more wheeling pics on my facebook page. As a respect to this forum I try to keep only build related pictures in this section

    Leave a comment:


  • Jeepbonehead
    replied
    nice beadlocks, finally so wheeling pics!! now if i could do the same

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  • netrachamp1853
    replied
    http://hartford.craigslist.org/for/1450764513.html

    you want it

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  • netrachamp1853
    replied
    Haha, yup..yeah..driveshaft's fucked....owell..i can get out of here in 2wd..its time for a drink..

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  • OWEN
    replied
    Driveshafts.

    Here is one and only one wheeling pic in this build thread.


    It wasn't bad, I got out to take the pic and look at my line, got back in and tried it. The front wheels came off a little and when it came down the point of the rock hit my front shaft.



    Moral of the story is: Carry a spare!

    I actually had a spare for the front I threw in, and here is a spare I made for the rear:

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  • OWEN
    replied
    Been driving the piss out of it on the street and wheeling the hell out of it as much as I can. Here is a couple things I have been working on.

    Beadlocks.
    I ordered a kit from A-Z Fabriaction a while ago and I finally got a couple extra rims. I switched out 2 rims on my jeep to use the rims on it to made the bead locks

    Start
    These wheels came off of an 80's Chevy pickup, they are 16x6.5 with 8 on 6.5 bolt pattern

    Clean the lip of the rim with a grinding wheel/wire brush, as this is where it will be welded

    Fit the innner ring "within the lip," make sure it it centered

    Since my wheels were narrow to begin with, i needed to notch out a spot for the tire valve stem to be filled with air. Then I tacked the wheel in 8 spots, and groud the lip flush with the ring.

    Then weld the bitches up!



    They need to be ground smooth. A 7" flap disc works nice. You can fix a 7" flap disc on a 4.5" grinder with no guard just watch your fingers.



    Paint and bolt the bitches up!


    I have two done, when I install the other two I will try to snap some pics of assembling the beadlocks with the tires, I learned a couple tricks as I went.

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  • OWEN
    replied
    Tackled the braking today... It stopped but the pedal started out low and almost hit the floor before there was any braking action. Keep in mind I swapped the pedals and brake booster from a 1981 CJ7 and fabbed my own firewall which turned out great except the pushrod on the pedal needed to be lengthened. I wound up making an adjustable pushrod... pretty simple and works great.

    Second, I am running a master cylinder from a 79 Chevy Corvette. If anyone here needs is using my pics as a reference don't, because I had my lines hooked up backwards! On the Corvette MC the front reservior (reletive to the front of the vehicle) is larger but has a smaller port. This is for the rear brakes. The rearward, smaller reservior with the larger port is for the front brakes. Needless to say it stops a lot better now and I haven't bled it yet.

    I priced out the hardware for my beadlocks from a few local hardware stores. I can get everything for around $50 from Church and Morse in Meriden. They have the best hardware prices in the area hands down. Thats 128 grade 5 2" 3/8 Bolts, 128 nylock 3/8 nuts, and 256 washers. Most offroad shops want $100 for the hardware, Fastenal wanted $109. Probably going to start on those pretty soon as well as my OBA setup

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  • OWEN
    replied
    Originally posted by Pedro View Post
    pics plz.
    My friend took a few but I haven't seen them yet

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  • Riot
    replied
    That thing was a wild ride, almost uneventful just driving up rock faces and whatnot.

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  • Pedro
    replied
    pics plz.

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  • clean4drxj
    replied
    yea it did well Owen, Box yours isn't to shabby either...

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  • BOX
    replied
    This
    thing
    is
    awsome
    offroad.

    Leave a comment:


  • OWEN
    replied
    A little update

    I fucked around with these stupid aftermarket fans, they just did not move enough air to keep it cool. I went to chuck and eddies and got this large fan from a Mercedes car. It is a pusher fan about 16" diamter, cost $25. Works great, I have my fan wired for thermostatic control or manual control. In manual it can keep the temp down to 120 degrees!




    Shortened my XJ gas peal at both ends, so the throttle cable has a straight run the the throttle body (seemed like it was binding before) works and feels a lot better!


    Switched to a 79 Corvette master in attempt to gain better braking, I still need to work the bugs out but it stops a little better, but I have to adjust the pedal travel, it is too close to the floor


    Started working on an OBA setup, here is the tank. It is an aluminum propane cylinder. I removed the propane valve and used pipe fittings to plumb it as it appears in the pics, going to replumb it for an air inlet from the compressor.



    Took it out wheeling again. I wheeled the whole day without any issues, except fuel starvation when the fuel cell got low on hills. It did a lot better this time and is a total blast to drive!

    Leave a comment:


  • OWEN
    replied
    Took it out wheeling today...Good time, just went for a short ride. Made it to the trail and back with no problem, left the windshield at home. Had some overheating problems, I am going to put in a second electric fan to keep it cool. Other than that it went pretty well... a little anti-climactic but it was fun. It did happen, limited pics taken, you can see them on my facebook page

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