ahhh that shit will buff right out....glad ur ok...
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Project - Busted Knuckle
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It's totalled, and I have already done the buy back.
I don't think it touched the sub frame but we will see.
More work and pictures to follow.
BTW. 13 people were sent to the hospital because the 2 cars in the middle jumped the guide rail and hit head on into the white car. The girl who started this was texting. They are all alive, thankfully.
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Originally posted by kfeal View PostIt's totalled, and I have already done the buy back.
I don't think it touched the sub frame but we will see.
More work and pictures to follow.
BTW. 13 people were sent to the hospital because the 2 cars in the middle jumped the guide rail and hit head on into the white car. The girl who started this was texting. They are all alive, thankfully.2000 xj 4.5 clayton longarms with wontons with a touch of
97' zj
2012 surbra imperza DD
im a motivation machine like the hammer and sickle in communism
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Now that Spring is here and the sun stays out past 5PM, here is the list of things to do.
- HD offroad engineering stiffeners - full
- Finish welding and install the JCR front bumper
- Procure a winch
- I picked up some 2X6X3/16 tube for sliders to replace the rockers and cut the doors up.
- Remove the doors and conjure up some wiring harnesses for the power supply in the doors, maybe add a speaker or 2 to the dash.
- New brakes on the 8.8 - Backing plates, ebrake assembly, calipers, lines.
- Unit bearings and ball joints
- Oil pan gasket, oil filter housing gasket/O ring, and rear main
- Strip the interior and see what my floors look like
- Claytons
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Saturday was pretty productive with a little destruction.
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Front installation seemed like more of a burden than it actually was. The Trackbar bracket came right off, bumper was 6 bolts, snapped the steering box bolts off in the box so that was easy, fender supports, and brake line clips. Ready to go.
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The biggest pain in the ass was mocking the plates up and getting the contour correct.
I was thinking about doing a new steering box anyway, maybe now is the time.
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In the last 2 weeks, I think I am over the hump with this project. I had no idea it would take so long to get the stiffeners in and would most likely never want to do that job on my back again. One of the biggest issues I ran into was to much heat in a weak spot on the frame leading to a little blow through. I am not a professional welder but definitely get by alright and this was a shit job. All together with dis-assembly and reassembly, it took about 20 hours (including bullshitting time and beer drinking).
During the stiffener installation there was behind the scenes paint prep on numerous other components such as, long arm brackets and the cross member, the riddler diff cover, track bar bracket, HD shackle brackets misc parts and pieces. The entire rear was taken apart, inspected and reassembled, brakes were removed including the backing plates, all the lines, calipers, pads, and replaced with new everything.
The steering box which the bolts snapped in was upgraded to a 99 Durango box and new hydraulic lines to the pump. If you decide to change your steering box, spend the 50$ and get new lines with O rings. It really made the dis-assembly easier by just removing the entire unit (lines and all) and not worrying about reusing old crap. When attempting to remove the lines from the box, the nut on the line that holds the compression end into the box was frozen to the line, twisting the line with every wrench turn which resulted in more damage than it was worth to try and repair. I don't have pictures of this process but if someone wants them, shoot me a PM and i'll take some. Good to remember, as I have never done a steering box before, the commissioning process on a steering system is as follows;
- Make sure all the lines are tight and the O rings have been replaced with new
- For an XJ or TJ (I believe) get 2 quarts of ATF+4 and fill the pump to the top
- Turn the engine over and let it run for about 3 seconds and shut it down
- Refill the pump to the top and restart the engine for another 3 seconds (do this until the fluid level stabilizes, should be 3 times)
- Once the level has stabilized, leave the engine running and turn the wheel lock to lock a few times getting the air out.
- I let the engine run for about 10 minutes monitoring the level with the cap off
- Check for leaks and you're done
Tonight I plan on installing the HD offroad engineering shackle relocation brackets and the Clayton trackbar. Maybe have the cross memeber bolted and welded if everything else goes together well enough.
Here are some crappy pictures
And sorry for hijacking the name. If I knew how to change it I would.
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