Originally posted by SwampThing
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Sorry here are the pics. I am still working on the lift but just put it on a few weeks ago and need to save up for some 37"s or 38"s. Long story short the front is about an 7-8" rear is 8-9" this is being fixed right now. The start of these pics are the 2" lift then the 6" added to it in the end.
Starting the 8"
Jeeps don't get stuck ... they just take a nap when they are tired of being awesome
93 2DR XJ 8" lift D30/D44 4.56's 35" MTRs IRO Y-link Build:http://sisoffroad.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9658
Eric
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37s or 38s on stock diffs?1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
2001 wj tbd
1974 5 ton
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they are not stock but still probably weakJeeps don't get stuck ... they just take a nap when they are tired of being awesome
93 2DR XJ 8" lift D30/D44 4.56's 35" MTRs IRO Y-link Build:http://sisoffroad.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9658
Eric
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new bearings and r&p in the back on an 8.25 (apparently better than a 35). Front has 30 with upgraded shafts, joints, steering, etc.Jeeps don't get stuck ... they just take a nap when they are tired of being awesome
93 2DR XJ 8" lift D30/D44 4.56's 35" MTRs IRO Y-link Build:http://sisoffroad.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9658
Eric
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Originally posted by WickedXJ View Postnew bearings and r&p in the back on an 8.25 (apparently better than a 35). Front has 30 with upgraded shafts, joints, steering, etc.
i know it may seem like people are bashing you, but theres actually some decent tech advice in this thread, if you can sift through the snickering, haha
may want to step up the axles if youre going to run that kinda tire- Will
Originally posted by fizzyor am asians pants not a read end lol.Originally posted by DizzDizzaliens probed my husband
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I will help you out since you are new but this is your 1 time i do. Those diffs will NOT hold up to it. If you wheel nice and have a BUILT 44 in the front and rear you can get away with 37s on it but expect some breakage. If you wheel like an asshole you will need heavier duty axles especially if you plan on locking it in other words one tons or so. You may be better off dropping your lift to 4.5" and running 35s with a 44 rear and 30 front where you can lock the rear but leave the front open. I like the throttle when wheeling and i was able to keep the 30/ 44 setup with out any issues on 35s
You will also need better gearing i ran stock gears on 35s and it sucked taint.1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
2001 wj tbd
1974 5 ton
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welcome man.
i would try to stay away from them 37s, anything above 35s cost crazy dollaz to have a dialed setup.
do like the 2 door though97 zj- frankenstein 3.5", 35 stt's.
92 240sx- coilovers,full adj arms bla bla bla. 50trim t3/t04 soon
xj- need one
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Thanks for the advice I've been looking into upgrading but would need tons of money for a 16-bolt or a D60. And obviously have to re-weld stuff and I just don't have that kind of confidence in my welding skills at this point so probably couple hundred more for all the welds on the relocated mounts. The 44 is an option but I would not take a used one because apparently with the Jeep 44 and 35 most came from Dana with a slight angle on the axle tubes as the were improperly welded at the factory. So if I went with a 44 it would be even more costly for a new one. But I will get some nicer axles and tire eventually but most of my money is going into my 87 camaro which decided one day that I no longer needed the guages.Jeeps don't get stuck ... they just take a nap when they are tired of being awesome
93 2DR XJ 8" lift D30/D44 4.56's 35" MTRs IRO Y-link Build:http://sisoffroad.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9658
Eric
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