I think i'm going to start playing around with a 4-link calculator for an up and coming project. I never used one before and, for those of you that have used them, can you offer any good advice? I've been looking around on trying to find a good % for anti-squat too and come up with a wide range of numbers. I think any advice would be helpful and a site to download the calculator would be helpful. Thanks
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In order for you to actually know what your anti squat is you need to know what where your CG is.
Basically figure out what you got now and go from there do you want more or less it is all a mater of opinion and driver feel.
I would use the program to figure out what mounts to move that effect the most and make multiple hose so you can adjust it.
Don't forget to use the bump and drop calculation everything changes once your not at ride height anymore. Post your calculations and we can critique.
Note: if your running long arms/ hard arms just put the upper and lower link frame mount location in the same place everything should calculate the same except roll center that will now be based of your pan hard.RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
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Originally posted by customcreationsllc View Post
Note: if your running long arms/ hard arms just put the upper and lower link frame mount location in the same place .
if i am reading this correctly that will essentially make a radius arm setup
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Originally posted by Hydra View PostI could be wrong but I think that's what he meant by long/hard arm setup as he was referencing their commonality in cherokees
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Yes that's how you can trick the program into calculating radius arms to many names for the same thing.
You just cannot use the 4link program to calculate roll centers because the links are no longer triangulated.
You can do the same thing with the 3 link program which does have the pan hard bar and that will calculate roll center roll axis etc.RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
Sponsors:
Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts
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Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Postfront or rear?
panhard or triangulated?I don't always drink orange juice, but when I do, I prefer to chew it. #madpulp
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if you do triangulated, your still going to need a panhard (track bar)
correct me if im wrong but you have 3 options
1) factory 4 link (straight arms) with a panhard
2) radius arms with a pan hard
3) triangulated 3-link with a pan hard.
i would think option 3 would be your best bet. this is the setup Corey and Andy run.... for example.Last edited by grundlepunch; 02-24-2010, 12:06 PM."when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"
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If you triangulate a four link you don not need a pan hard bar the triangulation can support the sidewards force.
But Like DrThunder said it is hard to triangulate a front axle the engine is in the way.
4 link with a pan hard bar will bind up when flexing you don't want more than 4 links connected to your axle including a pan hard bar as a link.
Stock 4 links work with the pan hard bar because there is enough flex in the system with rubber bushings and thin links so they just deflect.
So you have really only have 1 option 3 link with a pan hard. A radius arm is the same as a 3 links with the 2 links mounted to the same spot on the frame.
2 Links built together like on the radius arms is essential the same as 2 long links connected to the same frame mount. It doesn't matter what the link looks like bent or what not it is only the axle connection and frame connection points that matter.
That is why high clearance bent arms don't effect suspension geometry.RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
www.offroadcustomcreations.com
Sponsors:
Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts
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Originally posted by ninetysix-ex-jay View PostDefinitely front but I'm not sure if I want to go triangulated or panhard. I'm still looking into this and trying to get a good idea the plus and minus of both. All of this is 100% new to me
Originally posted by grundlepunch View Postif you do triangulated, your still going to need a panhard (track bar)
correct me if im wrong but you have 3 options
1) factory 4 link (straight arms) with a panhard
2) radius arms with a pan hard
3) triangulated 3-link with a pan hard.
i would think option 3 would be your best bet. this is the setup Corey and Andy run.... for example.
Originally posted by customcreationsllc View Post
4 link with a pan hard bar will bind up when flexing you don't want more than 4 links connected to your axle including a pan hard bar as a link.
So you have really only have 1 option 3 link with a pan hard. A radius arm is the same as a 3 links with the 2 links mounted to the same spot on the frame.
2 Links built together like on the radius arms is essential the same as 2 long links connected to the same frame mount. It doesn't matter what the link looks like bent or what not it is only the axle connection and frame connection points that matter.
That is why high clearance bent arms don't effect suspension geometry.
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Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
radius arms w/ panhard have more bind than a 4 link with panhard. don't get me wrong 4 links have thier bind, but throw rubber bushings in the mix and thats more enough to compensate for the binding.I don't always drink orange juice, but when I do, I prefer to chew it. #madpulp
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