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  • Suspension geometry question.

    Background:
    I am asking this just to clear thoughts in my head. Say that a person had a cherokee with a 3-4 inch lift and already had adjustable upper and lower control arms. This person wants to make their lower control arm angle flatter or make the suspension to where it is not as harsh.

    Would it be more beneficial to:
    A.(EASY WAY) raise the lower link mounts on the the axle (for example: on a D30 raising the link mount to be even with the bottom of the tube.)
    1. What would this do to the suspension geometry if the uppers stayed the same height?
    2. What would this affect handling wise?

    B.(MORE DIFFICULT WAY) Design a mid-arm 3/4 link?
    1.Obviously this would probably be better be cause the person could design their own geometry for their purpose
    2.The more expensive option.
    Last edited by SupermanIce-J; 01-13-2010, 11:24 PM.
    2013 F150 fx4 (Tow Pig/DD)
    • 5.0 with the 3.73 option

    2003 TJ Rubicon
    • 4.0/42rle/np241or
    • 5.13's
    • 3" Savvy/Currie suspension with acos
    • 33” BFG KO2s

  • #2
    have you looked into it all? moving link mounts around can have good and bad repercussion. Moving the link mounts on the axle up increased the force exerted on it by a lot. I remember reading one dude on pirate who moved it up 3/4" it increased like 600 psi on the mount. Your best bet would be building mid arms.

    Moving the link up will spin the axle pointing the pinion down unless you compensate up top. The geometry will not be the same but close.
    1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
    2001 wj tbd
    1974 5 ton

    Comment


    • #3
      go play with link calculators

      its fun and you will learn a few things.

      i raised my lower mounting points and its awesome, but i run a radius arm and it doesnt really matter where the links are mounted.

      but less separation at the axle end will negatively effect your anti-squat, how much? im not sure. will it be noticeable? i'm not sure.


      im doin a ballin midarm next.

      might wanna do a 4 link with all rubber bushings too. my stock shortarms are super duper cushy at speed offroad.
      www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Cletus View Post
        have you looked into it all?
        I have heard raising the lower link mounts but i have never heard any feedback from the people that have done it on the stock geometry.

        Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
        go play with link calculators

        its fun and you will learn a few things.
        I am going to get the stock measurments then play with it a lil bit.



        Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
        but less separation at the axle end will negatively effect your anti-squat
        which means there will be less anti squat which means on a hill climb it will unload more?? maybe i am totally confused on this.

        Looks like I need to do some moar reading into this. But more input on the subject is appreciated because Ithink this could help some other people out too.
        2013 F150 fx4 (Tow Pig/DD)
        • 5.0 with the 3.73 option

        2003 TJ Rubicon
        • 4.0/42rle/np241or
        • 5.13's
        • 3" Savvy/Currie suspension with acos
        • 33” BFG KO2s

        Comment


        • #5
          id just do mid arms for the reasons i stated less stress on the link mounts
          1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
          2001 wj tbd
          1974 5 ton

          Comment


          • #6
            Okay i am sure that this will be answered when i venture into the link calculator but what if the uppers are raised as much as the lowers???

            I am trying to imagine why there would be more stress on the mounts but i just can't picture it.

            Off to pirate I go in search of the thread you spoke of.
            Last edited by SupermanIce-J; 01-13-2010, 11:53 PM.
            2013 F150 fx4 (Tow Pig/DD)
            • 5.0 with the 3.73 option

            2003 TJ Rubicon
            • 4.0/42rle/np241or
            • 5.13's
            • 3" Savvy/Currie suspension with acos
            • 33” BFG KO2s

            Comment


            • #7
              when you start driving your axle twists with the tires, it all has to do with the centerline of the axle but i may be wrong
              1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
              2001 wj tbd
              1974 5 ton

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Cletus View Post
                id just do mid arms for the reasons i stated less stress on the link mounts
                on my 44 i raised my link mounts so they are flush with the axle tube

                no ill effects, just more ground clearance
                www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Supermanxj View Post
                  Okay i am sure that this will be answered when i venture into the link calculator but what if the uppers are raised as much as the lowers???

                  I am trying to imagine why there would be more stress on the mounts but i just can't picture it.

                  Off to pirate I go in search of the thread you spoke of.
                  if the uppers are raised just as much as the lowers you will have better as numbers (flatter control arms)
                  www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post

                    might wanna do a 4 link with all rubber bushings too. my stock shortarms are super duper cushy at speed offroad.
                    factory 4 link w/ panhard, or true 4-link? if you have a true 4 link run all hard ends, c'mon guy.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by XJLI View Post
                      factory 4 link w/ panhard, or true 4-link? if you have a true 4 link run all hard ends, c'mon guy.
                      don't worry, i know what im doing

                      and how the fuck will i even fit a triangulated 4 link under my shit with 3" of lift and a dookin ass 4.0 oil pan chillin there?

                      i cant even fit a truss that is 2.5" above my axle tube
                      www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                        don't worry, i know what im doing

                        and how the fuck will i even fit a triangulated 4 link under my shit with 3" of lift and a dookin ass 4.0 oil pan chillin there?

                        i cant even fit a truss that is 2.5" above my axle tube
                        14" of lift duh.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                          my shit with 3" of lift
                          Originally posted by XJLI View Post
                          14" of lift duh.
                          does not compute
                          www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                          Comment

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