building up the YJ

[kracker]

just acquired a set of dana 60s from an 88 F350 from my buddy...getting them on friday... now my questions are:

1.) where is best place to buy parts for these axles?ebay?craigs list?
2.)whats a realistic expectation for the cost to build said axles?not that its an issue,but rather for preparation...
3.) should i four link my YJ or just keep the soa setup? i like the springs for their simplicity,but they do have their limitations.
4.)i plan on running 39.5 IROKS, what is the best gear ratio for these as i will (attempt) drive it on the street occasionally?
5.) moly shafts or no?
6.) should i sell my d30/8.8 combo w/aussies and 4.88's,1-ton high steer complete? keep the springs or leave them attached to the axles and sell them with the drive shafts too?


would appreciate some honest feedback as this is the LAST time im upgrading as the boss(the wife ) has given me the green light to build my dream rig....GO!!!

[customcreationsllc]

Randy's Ring and Pinion for gears and everything King pins spindle bearings etc. If your going to do it yourself or let the person installing them buy them so you don't have to deal with wrong parts etc.
Axles look for the ones that have lifetime warranty I think Yukon does, but their U-joint wraps are larger than stock so you need to have the inner and outer as a pair or your really limit your steering. Moser Axle no warranty but you get like 43° of steering with stock inners.
I would stay with the stock parts until you break.
All aftermarket axles are chromemoly anyways.

Price is all depends on what you want Lockers and axles@$200 and crazy U-joints add up.

I would stay with SOA leaf springs for simplicity and a more stable roll center.
You can be back ready to wheel in a couple weeks.
For the front you are either going to have to narrow the front axle or widen the spring perches on the frame. I believe rears are narrower than the fronts anyways. I usually just shorten the long end.

5.38 is the lowest gear ratio you can go anyways but the gear ratio depends on your tranny and engine. do you have over drive? can your engine run at 4grand for an hour?

[Jeepbonehead]

with a 88 f350 front d60 you will have to cut tubes and get new shafts, or outboard your springs i sugest finding a 78 or 79 the perches on those are already the right length apart, BOLT IN!!

[Ktmracer419]

perches are easy enough to weld on in new locations. i wouldn't exactly call that a selling point.

i get all my gear stuff from www.completeoffroad.com

i hate yukon shafts.

i would put aside a few grand

linked suspension>leafs.

i would go into more detail but i gotsa work

[spanky]

just acquired a set of dana 60s from an 88 F350 from my buddy...getting them on friday... now my questions are:

1.) where is best place to buy parts for these axles?ebay?craigs list?
2.)whats a realistic expectation for the cost to build said axles?not that its an issue,but rather for preparation...
3.) should i four link my YJ or just keep the soa setup? i like the springs for their simplicity,but they do have their limitations.
4.)i plan on running 39.5 IROKS, what is the best gear ratio for these as i will (attempt) drive it on the street occasionally?
5.) moly shafts or no?
6.) should i sell my d30/8.8 combo w/aussies and 4.88's,1-ton high steer complete? keep the springs or leave them attached to the axles and sell them with the drive shafts too?


would appreciate some honest feedback as this is the LAST time im upgrading as the boss(the wife ) has given me the green light to build my dream rig....GO!!!

1)the place u can find the cheapest parts
2)if u build the right like alittle over 6k for both mine were alittle more but i build mine to the hilt and bought all new shit
3)i think since ur doing it ,go all out and 4link the rear . but soa are still good, either way i would think about stretching to ATLEAST 101"stock wheelbase is not good that big.
4)5.13
5)i would go molly if u can afford it atleast molly 35spline outters in the front. if ur going to run a v8i would do inner and outter in the front and 35 spline in the rear.
6)ur call

[spanky]

with a 88 f350 front d60 you will have to cut tubes and get new shafts, or outboard your springs i sugest finding a 78 or 79 the perches on those are already the right length apart, BOLT IN!!

i have a 89 front ,cost me 250 to get the tubes cut and i used the stock outters and inners from a 79 not bad at all .plus when the cut the tubes they can fix the caster angle

[kracker]

what does it entail to outboard the springs?and just curious couldnt i keep the axles the way they are and not cut them ? i do plan on going full width with this one and most likely unless i get a good offeron my springs im gonna stay SOA....i plan on running 37's minimum but hopefully 39's if i can keep it low enough....

[kracker]

i have a 5spd stock tranny w an np231...maybe i should get the teralow 4:1?

[spanky]

i wouldnt do a tera like getting a super d35 save for a atlas or stack... even a d300 ,but with the 513s ull b ok . and i dont no much about leaf spring shit . i dont have any sorry lol
this is what st6ock full widths look like on a wrangler lol there wide lol

[customcreationsllc]

Full width is nice for spares.

I've seen kits that move the springs outward for full width don't remember where do some internet searching.
Basically just move the spring perches and shackles out until you can center the axle.
Try to keep the angle of the spring the same that controls your brake dive and the shackle angles contribute to your spring rates.
Shocks are the easiest part.

Closer springs are together the more they flex and allow and you don't hit your tires when turning.
Further springs are more stable but flex less.

I would look for a Dana 300 and do the flip kit and use the NP231 for a crawl box.
I moved my pumpkin to the passenger side so I rung the Dana 300 passenger side with the 231 crawl box.
But the flip kits are easily available and the 231 crawl box will have a lot lower gear ratio and cheaper than just the 4:1 kit plus you can twin stick.