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  • #31
    Originally posted by grundlepunch View Post
    wouldn't mind. but clocking the steering box might me a little tricky...

    fuck it, i'll stretch the front w/ 3-link and do xj springs in the read and have a 104" wb

    but really im going to sit down on Sunday and hammer out what im going to do
    what exactly do you mean by clocking the steering box???
    if you stretch would you have to drill new wholes for the steering box anyways??

    im bit confused
    Originally posted by Ktmracer419
    some people choose video games
    some choose projects
    some choose welding random things together

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    • #32
      Originally posted by DrThunder View Post
      You probably won't have to buy any links, just the tube for the links. I re-used all my old johnny joints and bushings.
      my links are square stock, what about buying more square stock where the O.D. is the same size of the I.D. of my links and then buying more material thats the same size as my links. cut my links, and sleeve it????
      "when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"

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      • #33
        Originally posted by grundlepunch View Post
        my links are square stock, what about buying more square stock where the O.D. is the same size of the I.D. of my links and then buying more material thats the same size as my links. cut my links, and sleeve it????
        You could do that. It would definately be strong enough just heavier.

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        • #34
          Originally posted by justtorchit View Post
          what exactly do you mean by clocking the steering box???
          if you stretch would you have to drill new wholes for the steering box anyways??

          im bit confused
          on my tj if i want to push the front any farther i would have to rotate the steering box flat (aka clocking) on a tj the box sits nose down all the way in the front of the jeep already not leaving any room to move it. so i would have to cut part of my frame off, weld in new box tube with a new cross member and make new holes/sleeves for my box like diss



          along with moving my track bar and coil/shock mojnts
          "when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"

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          • #35
            well.. theres another advantage.. you wont have that silly box sticking down waiting for every rock to hit it... you could whip up that setup in no time.. you have a frame to play with you lucky bastard
            Originally posted by Ktmracer419
            some people choose video games
            some choose projects
            some choose welding random things together

            Comment


            • #36
              its not like you have a shitty approach angle right now.

              stretching the front just seems to be more of a pita than gettin some leaves in back.

              move steering box forward
              new steering shaft
              longer power steering lines
              move coil buckets (or be cool and do coilovas or airshocks)
              move shock mounts
              move trackbar mount
              new driveshaft.


              leaves in the rear requires a few brackets and a longer driveshaft.
              www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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              • #37
                nevermind about steering

                nevurr heard of clocking, but i can see it halpin

                still a pain in the sack tho
                www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                  nevermind about steering

                  nevurr heard of clocking, but i can see it halpin

                  still a pain in the sack tho
                  mmm hhhmmm
                  "when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"

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                  • #39
                    Leaves in the rear would seem the simplest, and most effective way to do what you want, leaves in the front seems like a step backwards
                    dirty30

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                    • #40
                      Where do you want your CG further forward or further backwards? That should determine which end you want to stretch.

                      If you go leafs you would be done already.

                      But like I said earlier if you like hitting obstacles hard and doing monster drops then go links. Leafs cannot handle forwards and sideways loads,
                      If you only do slow crawling you can get away with leafs.

                      I don't think climbing is effected either way you just have to deal with axle wrap.
                      Anti squat effects climbing.
                      You will loose some of your steering with leafs.

                      I went with Leafs for simplicity, and price.
                      Next time around will be going links.

                      And last throw that steering box out and go full hydro, it will save you a lot of headaches.
                      RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
                      www.offroadcustomcreations.com

                      Sponsors:
                      Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts

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                      • #41
                        Originally posted by customcreationsllc View Post

                        And last throw that steering box out and go full hydro, it will save you a lot of headaches.
                        i would be a little scurred of running full hydro on a street driven rig
                        www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                        • #42
                          I had a good conversation with Lance from PSC I met him at the KOH race at Rausch. He said he runs them in his 100mph race cars with no problems. He would have no problem running them on the road.

                          You just need to have them set up correctly.
                          Match pump, ram, and tires size.
                          Use an orbital valve that doesn't lock position a "force feed back" or "self centering orbital valve" With correct caster it will center itself.
                          You also need a good cooler to keep the fluid from boiling over.
                          The orbital valves act as manual pump if you engine dies you still have manual steering.

                          I'm planning on running full hydro on the next rig.
                          RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
                          www.offroadcustomcreations.com

                          Sponsors:
                          Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            not going to run full hydro on a d44. i'll wait till i go 1 -tons and 40's
                            "when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by grundlepunch View Post
                              not going to run full hydro on a d44. i'll wait till i go 1 -tons and 40's
                              LMK when you sell that front 44
                              Hench

                              ATM anyone?

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                              • #45
                                rear frame damage= leaf time
                                www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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