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appropriate way to break in gears?

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  • appropriate way to break in gears?

    im getting 4.10s and install kits put in as we speak...im sure my buddy i have doing it will explain how to break them in correctly but i read you shouldnt drive longer than 20 mins, shouldnt pounce on the gas, and no 4 wheel for alittle while..

    next week i actually start my new job thats 30min-45 min away some stop and go but mostly highway driving..idk if i should be asking for a ride to work the whole week?

    for those who regear what do you got to say?
    -Jason
    99WJ 4.0
    IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

  • #2
    bring it up to about 4k in neutral, slam it into reverse, quickly followed by drive, then rip an e-brake that sends you into a mctwist through the air

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    • #3
      Originally posted by fullwidthxj191 View Post
      bring it up to about 4k in neutral, slam it into reverse, quickly followed by drive, then rip an e-brake that sends you into a mctwist through the air
      tru story
      Originally posted by Fast Orange
      if you piss all over the floor and get 3 drops in the bowl do you count that as good? granted i'm good for a sprinkle or two on the seat, but you leave all of our feet wet, metaphorically speaking of course
      Originally posted by HitItWithSomeSpeed
      I find adam sandler strangely attractive, it must be josh's fault. god that kid sucks

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      • #4
        When I broken my Dana 60 gears in, I locked the hubs but disengaged the front axle at the transfercase so those wouldnt see a load from the motor but just a steady speed up and speed down. They are super quiet and I haven't had a problem with them. Here is what Yukon recommends:

        All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent overheating damage. Any overloading or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail. This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears’ warranty. Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.

        - Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
        - Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
        - Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
        - Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears’ warranty.
        - When towing for the first time, drive for a very short distances (less than 15 miles) with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding.
        Repeat this procedure two more times (45 miles total) to fully break in the gears.
        - Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears’ break-in period.

        These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was fully broken-in.

        http://www.yukongear.com/DownLoads/T...structions.pdf
        Last edited by Wide-J; 05-30-2009, 08:02 AM.
        88 YJ...kinda. Clayton Hard Arms, V8, 1 tons w/Detroits, twin sticked T-18/NP205, Irok's, MasterCrafts, fuel cell, multi-colored

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        • #5
          i dont remember ever breaking in gears.

          i competed on my dana 60 the day it was installed under my jeep
          www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Wide-J View Post
            When I broken my Dana 60 gears in, I locked the hubs but disengaged the front axle at the transfercase so those wouldnt see a load from the motor but just a steady speed up and speed down. They are super quiet and I haven't had a problem with them. Here is what Yukon recommends:

            All new gear sets require a break-in period to prevent overheating damage. Any overloading or overheating will break down the gear oil, which will cause the ring and pinion to fail. This can be determined by inspection and will void the gears’ warranty. Please follow these guidelines to insure proper break-in.

            - Avoid heavy acceleration during the break-in process.
            - Drive the vehicle lightly for the first 15 to 20 miles and stop. Let the differential cool before proceeding.
            - Avoid heavy acceleration for the first 100 miles.
            - Drive the vehicle at least 500 miles before towing to retain the gears’ warranty.
            - When towing for the first time, drive for a very short distances (less than 15 miles) with the full load and stop. Let the differential cool for about 20 minutes before proceeding.
            Repeat this procedure two more times (45 miles total) to fully break in the gears.
            - Change the oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove any metal particles and phosphoric coating shed by the gear set during the gears’ break-in period.

            These towing instructions may seem unnecessary to most people, but we have seen many differentials damaged from being loaded before the gear set was fully broken-in.

            http://www.yukongear.com/DownLoads/T...structions.pdf
            Thank ya
            -Jason
            99WJ 4.0
            IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

            Comment


            • #7
              And make sure when your doing the break in process do it with a non synthetic gear oil and after 500 miles when you change the fluid you can run whatever synthetic you use if you use synthetic which you should be especially with aftermarket gearsets.
              Check out www.EVB.cc

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              • #8
                i run the cheap crap now
                www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by XJ~ontherocks View Post
                  And make sure when your doing the break in process do it with a non synthetic gear oil and after 500 miles when you change the fluid you can run whatever synthetic you use if you use synthetic which you should be especially with aftermarket gearsets.
                  why
                  "when I'm riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive...when I stop riding my motorcycle,I'm glad to be alive"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My rear axle is pretty much broken in by now but i was wondering if i should do anything special for the front since i have locking hubs. I really dont wanna drive around with the hubs locked with the locker in the front.
                    99 xj, 3" RC, 35" BFG AT red labels, custom rear bumper, SYE, armor, Hellas, waggy 44's fr+rr, 5.13's ,lunchbox lockers fr+rr, rear disk conversion,rock crusher covers frt+rr, beefy homemade 1 ton highsteer setup

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by xjeeper View Post
                      My rear axle is pretty much broken in by now but i was wondering if i should do anything special for the front since i have locking hubs. I really dont wanna drive around with the hubs locked with the locker in the front.
                      Why? You been doin that in your jeep for over a year

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                      • #12
                        just romp on it.

                        it will never see much heat if your only crawling it offroad with the hubs locked
                        www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          just got them put in, my buddy who did it says i should really buy one of those reprogramming things than u have to plug in for a sec so the tranny shifts normal or something?

                          is this necessary and did any of you do it?
                          -Jason
                          99WJ 4.0
                          IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by lakailimited06 View Post
                            just got them put in, my buddy who did it says i should really buy one of those reprogramming things than u have to plug in for a sec so the tranny shifts normal or something?

                            is this necessary and did any of you do it?
                            nah
                            www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              also, are they supposed to be noisy? they sound alittle noisy
                              -Jason
                              99WJ 4.0
                              IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

                              Comment

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