CV joint to U joint conversion problems...

[lakailimited06]

theyre made by iron rock offroad specifically for the WJ front axle..i had them next to my CV's and they are the same length...im putting my CVs back in tomorrow to see if the noise goes away and the lights stay off and if so im keeping them in and hopefully getting some money back for these from the guy and sselling the seals i just bought...

[crosbike]

check the u joints as any play could make a noise. also check the ears, maybe they are contacting the knuckle a little and you need to clearance the knuckle.

[lakailimited06]

i checked the joints and they were fine...i had the jeep on stands and rotated both tires and coudlnt see or hear anything contacting and i also turned the steering wheel and rotated the tires and coldnt hear anything...

[Ktmracer419]

hokay. my next bet is that aussie noise is just the nature. u joints arent constant velocity, much like cv's so they aussie needs to differentiate on turns.

the ginding noise could be wheel bearings. when weight is on them your rotor could be contacting a dust shield or something

[lakailimited06]

ill buy the aussie thing...i know the wheel bearing may be on there way out even though theres no play in the tire at all when its mounted...im just trying to decide if i want to dump more money into this than i already have rather than just stick with CV shafts and try to get my money back for the alloy ones...

ive spent a decent amount so far 350 for the shafts, gas driving to jersey, tolls going to jersey, gas driving back and forth to my fathers shop, new gear oil and rtv for when i popped open the diff...new alloy shafts from IRO are 800$ im just deciding on what i want to do...

i dont want to run 33's locked on cv shafts im thinking of just trying to get my money back and stick to CV's or keep the alloy shafts put my CV's back in and try to figure out the problem..

[Ktmracer419]

the dana30 front is fairly simple. can only be one of a few things. i would track down the issue and run the dookiner u joints/shafts

[lakailimited06]

yea im leaning towards keeping the shafts and just putting my old ones back in and hopefully everytihng is normal again, then just finding out what it could be...

either way 350 is good for alloy shafts custom made basically...i really think it has something to do with this guys outer hubs unit bearings whatever you want to call it that came with the alloy shafts...

i might swap my stock ones and put them on these shafts tomorrow at the shop, depends on how much time i have and what im working with...

thanks for the help guys

[lakailimited06]

if the above doesnt work, i think i might buy a whole new axle bearing hub assembly since that should more or less have every new part in it that could cause the problem no? and its only ~95 on rockauto..

even after removing the shafts 1000 times i still get confused on what is what

[XJLI]

run the P/N for the hubs on amazon and google, find the best price on TIMKEN brand hubs. any others will bust.

[Jeepbonehead]

yup, i fail, my bad

[lakailimited06]

alright so, took the shafts back out tonight along with the superior seals and swapped my CVs back in and there you have it everything seems like its back to normal..no strange noises and no lights coming on...

i did however take the outer hubs off the alloy shafts that the guy had on there and the drivers side spun like butter which is weird cause thats the side that i heard noise from..

anywho the passenger side when spun felt like there was friction, sand, or corrosion in it it wasnt spinning smooth..also it would bind up and need force to continue to spin it..

can i say that this is a shot wheel bearing inside the passenger hub?

[crosbike]

ya. swap out the hubs and throw another shrimp on the barbie