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CV joint to U joint conversion problems...

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  • CV joint to U joint conversion problems...

    alright so sunday i swapped out my stock CV axle shafts for custom IRO alloy u joint shafts i bought used from a guy in jersey..

    everything is fine and dandy install goes smooth..i go to drive away and my ABS light and E brake light go on as well as lots of noise under the front of the jeep..i right away think my diff is slowly disintegrating so i deal with it...

    The ABS light i can see going off because maybe the tone rings on the new shafts are alittle banged up or not clean enough so i put that problem aside and it only comes on above ~10-15mph..i have no idea why the e brake light is on..

    so today i went back down to my dads shop opened the diff, no filings or pieces or nothing everything is clean and fine...

    i pulled the shafts back out cleaned the tone rings with a wire brush and i remembered the driverside (short shaft side) tone ring was alittle cocked when i put them in for the first time and i made it straight..so this time i moved it where i thought it should be..

    anywho put everything back together (this time torqued the 3 hub bolts) and with the jeep on stands everything seemed fine again like yesterday...

    so now on the way back home the ABS stays off for alittle till i get up the block and cruise around 40 it pops back on..i shut the jeep off and then start it and continue driving and it pops back on alittle later..do the same thing again and the e brake light and abs pop back on..

    as far as the noise, they are still noisy but not as much..seems like they make the locker more noisy as well...

    idk what to do i can live without ABS i dont care and the e brake light is just the sensor i guess or some shit..

    and ideas?

    also i checked for wheel bearing play everything was fine as well as the u joints they are good too..previous owner says his axle nuts were torqued down to spec as well when he had them and he also said his shafts made niose to...but his abs or brake lights didnt come on..
    -Jason
    99WJ 4.0
    IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

  • #2
    With some vehicles when the abs light goes on the brake light will go on.

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    • #3
      so you got rid of the CV joint??
      1991 YJ, 1 tons, locked, lots o armor, stretched, cage

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      • #4
        he changed it from cv joint to ujoint
        1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
        2001 wj tbd
        1974 5 ton

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        • #5
          won;t the f up the drive line and make problems and vibes.
          1991 YJ, 1 tons, locked, lots o armor, stretched, cage

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          • #6
            well its not supposed to...but they seem to be making a decent amount of noise..there was no visible damage inside the diff when i opened it up so i guess theyre just noisy i dont know if i shoudl switch back the the CV's just to be safe...
            -Jason
            99WJ 4.0
            IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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            • #7
              the geometry for a u-joint drive shaft and a cv driveshaft are completely different your going to blow shit up, CV is better anyway
              1991 YJ, 1 tons, locked, lots o armor, stretched, cage

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              • #8
                he's talking about axleshafts

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jeepbonehead View Post
                  the geometry for a u-joint drive shaft and a cv driveshaft are completely different your going to blow shit up, CV is better anyway
                  um wut.
                  and what evan said. this is axleshafts.

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                  • #10
                    alright so sunday i swapped out my stock CV AXLE shafts for custom IRO alloy u joint shafts i bought used from a guy in jersey
                    reread bonehead
                    1996 xj, waggy 44 front 5.13 gears aussie trussed, 3 links, 3.5" coils, spooled 8.8 rear, 38" tsl sx's, tnt front bumper, jesus freaks rear bumper, Olympic top hat roof rack, bunch of dumb shit
                    2001 wj tbd
                    1974 5 ton

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                    • #11
                      burnnnnnnn...no harm done
                      -Jason
                      99WJ 4.0
                      IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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                      • #12
                        i found this out first hand the other day.

                        if there is the SLIGHTEST nick in the tone rings. shit hits the fan.

                        pull the abs fuse and you wouldnt have to worry about it. abs sucks for wheeling anyway.
                        www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                        • #13
                          yea abs is my last concerne...its the noises im hearing that are making me cringe..are u joints that noisy? i know when u turn real sharp theyll sometimes bind up...

                          i narrowed the sound to only coming from the left side which either means its the drivers hub are thats a problem or inside the diff there is something going on that i didnt notice...also on right turns everything is normal on left turns the aussie is way louder now..

                          even going straight i hear sounds..it comes and goes it honestly sounds like something scraping against something else on every rotation but i spun the tires and examined everything and couldnt find anything
                          -Jason
                          99WJ 4.0
                          IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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                          • #14
                            ive been talking to IRO today adn yesterday and they cant really come up with a problem i dont mind going back to CV shafts since im only on 31's anyhow right now and maybe i can get my money back from the previous owner rather then sell them to smoeone else if theyre giving me problems...

                            it jsut sucks cause i had a nice setup going for 33's when i run them and i have the superior seals in already that ill have to take out..if anyones interested let me know theyre brand new..
                            -Jason
                            99WJ 4.0
                            IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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                            • #15
                              OH. WHAT ARE THE SHAFTS FOR?

                              wj knuckles are wider than xj/tj/zj knuckles by about 1/4" this would cause the u joints not to be aligned properly with the ball joint. thus when you turn theres hella stress put on them which could explain the bulk of your issues.

                              you would need wj specific shafts or run lame old jeep steering and knuckles with those shafts if this is the case (maybe you can have your knuckles machined down?)
                              www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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