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  • T-Case Linkage.

    Been working on my new T-Case linkage a lot. I have it all just about together, but i've run into one little snag.

    On the paddle that attaches to the lever in the jeep, i can't get a bolt through it. Is there a rubber bushing or something stopping me? I was going to just pull the entire paddle off the jeep and just knock whatever it is out on my workbench, but i can't figure out how to get it off either.

    Picture related. The thing circled in red is what i'm trying to remove.



    Hudson

    Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

    No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

  • #2
    Cut a hole in the floor with a angle grinder. Than use pop rivets to put metal back over it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Schickos881 View Post
      Cut a hole in the floor with a angle grinder. Than use pop rivets to put metal back over it.
      How big of a hole? What does this hole let me accomplish? Getting the paddle off or being able to drill the paddle out?

      Also, where do i cut it? In like the driver side foot rest area?
      Hudson

      Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

      No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well, i got the linkage in. Managed to get that rubber bushing out with a pick.

        Anyways, i have another question. My linkage is only allowing my jeep to shift into 4 part time and 4 full time.

        It doesn't have enough reach in it for it to get into neutral or 4lo. Is my linkage at too much of an angle, or is there too much play in my system somewhere?

        Pictures are related.

        I realize that bolt isn't straight and has a lot of play in it. How would i fix that? Should i use a bunch of washers as opposed to the one 1/2" washer i have locked in place?


        Hudson

        Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

        No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

        Comment


        • #5
          Paging Zullo.
          2000 XJ: "The Black Jeep"
          MK2 Jetta > M3
          Chairman of the Chechnyan Space Program

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          • #6
            Just tightened everything up, and still no neutral or 4lo. Here is a video of it.

            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FY9Dh...ature=youtu.be
            Hudson

            Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

            No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

            Comment


            • #7
              Hmmmmmm.

              i ended up welding the bolt that goes through the heim on the shifter end to make like a stud, and prevent from having any slop.

              I also had similar problems with shifting into 4 low and having it stay in. I had to modify the shifter plate in the passenger compartment by cutting some material out so i could adjust the 2hi position forward. That in turn moved the shifter position for all the gears forward and allowed for enough room to shift the transfer case into 4low.

              i made sure i was able to shift the tcase into all the gears manually with that tab on the tcase. basically just to insure that the tab itself wasn't the issue and it was possible to get all the gears from 2 through 4 low.

              I don't know how much of a part the adjustability factor played, but i used threaded rod and because of that i was able to fine tune it to the point where it worked well. It took me a lot of playing with it though to get it all lined up just right.

              Maru.... did you use the linkage when you put the case into your truck?? How has it worked out?? I'm curious to see if the application transferred over well.

              Shifter was also VERY firm considering its a hard linkage with very little leverage. I think it helped that the tcase i was using was basically brand new and shifted extremely smoothly between positions.

              As for anything else, all i can say is tinker with it, you're on the right path. Try different ideas, you'll figure something out. Kinda the way i worked through mine.
              Last edited by Zullock Holmes; 01-19-2013, 11:40 PM.
              No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


              ForSure Motorsports
              Win or Lose, We Booze.


              Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Zullius Caesar View Post
                Hmmmmmm.

                i ended up welding the bolt that goes through the heim on the shifter end to make like a stud, and prevent from having any slop.

                I also had similar problems with shifting into 4 low and having it stay in. I had to modify the shifter plate in the passenger compartment by cutting some material out so i could adjust the 2hi position forward. That in turn moved the shifter position for all the gears forward and allowed for enough room to shift the transfer case into 4low.

                i made sure i was able to shift the tcase into all the gears manually with that tab on the tcase. basically just to insure that the tab itself wasn't the issue and it was possible to get all the gears from 2 through 4 low.

                I don't know how much of a part the adjustability factor played, but i used threaded rod and because of that i was able to fine tune it to the point where it worked well. It took me a lot of playing with it though to get it all lined up just right.

                Maru.... did you use the linkage when you put the case into your truck?? How has it worked out?? I'm curious to see if the application transferred over well.

                Shifter was also VERY firm considering its a hard linkage with very little leverage. I think it helped that the tcase i was using was basically brand new and shifted extremely smoothly between positions.

                As for anything else, all i can say is tinker with it, you're on the right path. Try different ideas, you'll figure something out. Kinda the way i worked through mine.
                Alright, so you stuck the bolt through the shifter end, and then welded the bolt to the shifter arm while it was in the jeep, correct?

                "modify the shifter plate in the passenger compartment by cutting some material out so i could adjust the 2hi position forward."
                I do not understand this at all. Where is the "Shifter plate" in the passenger compartment, and how do i access it? What material did you cut out?

                My T-case didn't shift into 4lo before i started all of this. I assumed my linkage was out of adjustment, and instead of fixing that i opted to rebuild the entire thing. Think this has something to do with it?

                I'll get some 3/8-24 threaded rod and try my luck with that and just keep tinkering with it. I should be able to get it eventually.

                Do i need to get anything special with the transmission to shift the tcase into 4 lo? I've never EVER used it on this jeep, or for that matter been able to shift into it.
                Hudson

                Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

                No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

                Comment


                • #9
                  not sure what size heims those are. but 7/16" heims are perfect. 7/16" bolts fit like a glove. get shorter bolts. and you have to extend the bottom of the lever on the bottom side by about 3/4" for good engagement without chopping up the interior panel and bracket.
                  www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                    not sure what size heims those are. but 7/16" heims are perfect. 7/16" bolts fit like a glove. get shorter bolts. and you have to extend the bottom of the lever on the bottom side by about 3/4" for good engagement without chopping up the interior panel and bracket.
                    Those are 3/8" heims. Are you saying 7/16" bolts fit into the paddles like a glove or into the heims?

                    I actually used a shorter bolt if you watched the video.

                    What do i have to extend 3/4"? I have to make the ruddy brown thing on the tcase longer?

                    Looks like this currently.


                    Hudson

                    Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

                    No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Hudson View Post
                      Those are 3/8" heims. Are you saying 7/16" bolts fit into the paddles like a glove or into the heims?

                      I actually used a shorter bolt if you watched the video.

                      What do i have to extend 3/4"? I have to make the ruddy brown thing on the tcase longer?

                      Looks like this currently.


                      well ya cant use 7/16" bolts with 3/8" heims. but 7/16" heims fit the factory levers perfectly.

                      the lever coming out of the floor needs to be lengthened for full engagement in all positions.
                      www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                        well ya cant use 7/16" bolts with 3/8" heims. but 7/16" heims fit the factory levers perfectly.

                        the lever coming out of the floor needs to be lengthened for full engagement in all positions.
                        That's what i originally thought. I was trying to get the linkage level, but it wasn't happening. Just ordered some 7/16 heims from amazon, as home depot or no one else seems to carry them.

                        You recommend 7/16" bolts to go through the factory levels and then 7/16" threaded rod to connect the two or what?

                        How would i take that lever coming out of the floor out so i can extend it? What holds it to the jeep? Also, you see the angle that the lever is at? Should i keep that angle going, or when i weld a piece onto it should i make it straight?

                        If you scroll up to the picture you just quoted, on the last one you can see the angle it come stock from the handle. Do i maintain this?

                        Picture is what you want me to extend, correct?


                        Hudson

                        Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

                        No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          i just completely threaded a long 7/16" grade 8 bolt with a die.

                          yes, thats what you wanna extend. I just put a die grinder to it to clean the metal, then welded the piece on it when it was still on the truck. did this with my last 2 xjs.
                          www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Ktmracer419 View Post
                            i just completely threaded a long 7/16" grade 8 bolt with a die.

                            yes, thats what you wanna extend. I just put a die grinder to it to clean the metal, then welded the piece on it when it was still on the truck. did this with my last 2 xjs.
                            Alright thank you. You're a lifesaver.

                            Just one more question. How long of an extension piece did you weld on? I want to drill the hole before i weld it up for obvious reasons. I'd assume measure it so the linkage will be level, then put the hole where it needs to be, correct?

                            Will get this done this weekend. I appreciate all the assistance.
                            Hudson

                            Build Thread - http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/...d.php?t=121903

                            No Amount Of Money Is Worth Your Sanity.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It was basically just a square piece of 1/4" thick metal with a 7/16" hole drilled in the center. extended it maybe 3/4".

                              when welded up, just put both levers in 2wd (inside handle, and the t-case lever) adjust the threaded rod/heims to slide into place, tighten the bolts, and see if it engages well in all ranges.

                              I have never had to do any adjustment after that.
                              www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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