my jeep headache

[92xjlaredo]

okay so i made this in the AM today, took almost all the way to the PM to upload, fucking slow internet......anyways here it is

watch yourself headphone users, and you may have to play with the volume to hear it run cause its from my phone.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4C71cPZHNE&feature=context-cha"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4C71cPZHNE&feature=context-cha[/ame]

and a few minutes later [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myF5PmnaJCw&feature=plcp"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myF5PmnaJCw&feature=plcp[/ame]

[justtorchit]

Have u replaced the coolant temp sensor?

[92xjlaredo]

its probably 2 months old, other than a coolant flush and swap thats where i started

[crosbike]

just cuz the sensor is new doesnt mean it is good. test it or find another one and try it.

[customcreationsllc]

its probably 2 months old, other than a coolant flush and swap thats where i started

your gage temp sensor and the computer temps sensor are different.

Just watched the video you got the computer one.
But you can test it with a volt meter or a scanner.

Hard to help over the internet sorry.

You will have pressure even when the fuel rail vapor locks.
Try a cool wet rag on the fuel rail to cool it off. Does it start up then?
XJ are known for running hot add a spacer in the rear of the hood to let the hot are out. 1-1/4 block works well.

Make sure there is no other vacuum leaks or anything stupid.
You can also check your other sensors like the O2 and Map
Sounds like it is running rough when it goes to closed loop. (running off the sensors)
Open loop when it runs off the computer without being modified buy the computer.
A scanner will tell you when it is in closed or open.

[92xjlaredo]

your gage temp sensor and the computer temps sensor are different.

Just watched the video you got the computer one.
But you can test it with a volt meter or a scanner.

Hard to help over the internet sorry.

You will have pressure even when the fuel rail vapor locks.
Try a cool wet rag on the fuel rail to cool it off. Does it start up then?
XJ are known for running hot add a spacer in the rear of the hood to let the hot are out. 1-1/4 block works well.

Make sure there is no other vacuum leaks or anything stupid.
You can also check your other sensors like the O2 and Map
Sounds like it is running rough when it goes to closed loop. (running off the sensors)
Open loop when it runs off the computer without being modified buy the computer.
A scanner will tell you when it is in closed or open.

well thats the thing i cant get it to connect to a scantool. my ecm will throw check engine flashes at me though, but as far as hooking it up to a tool it just errors out and wont connect at all. if i pour cold water directly on the rail however it will run a little better it seems, not enough to make a difference though, wondering if this is my problem altogether in one, thats what a lotta people have told me thus far, that and CTS

would it be possible to retrofit an older style fuel system (send /eturn setup) by changing the rail and pump and adding a return line? I have all the stuff at my house to do it other than some fuel line which i could easliy get.

[92xjlaredo]

hey just thought to add to some of the tech knowledge i would put up a problem solved video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMm0M...ature=youtu.be

in the process ive changed Coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor, Throttle position sensor, Manifold Air temp sensor, and ECM...all to no change. then later on i swapped in a better (still not new) distributor, cap, rotor, and cam sensor and it works perfectly. i think the combination of all the distributor components had something to do with it. possibly just a bad cam sensor but id be willing to bet the cap had more than something to do with it.


anyways just wanted to say thanks a bunch to everyone. really saved me more than a few bucks of just throwing money at it

[92xjlaredo]

scratch that last post, hate to try and ride a dead horse into the ground, but this things still running like garbage. even after cap and rotor.....once it comes up to temp it doesnt run for shit again, along with the fact that while its cold it seems to pop, sputter, and blow what seems to be air back into the intake manifold....either that or a backfire on the exhaust end.....


im starting to wonder if my timing chain has stretched to the point of throwing the whole motor off, enough to make it run like shit, but not enough to make it quit. also is there a difference between a digital multimeter and an ohmmeter, as far as i understand it when you put a multimeter in the "resistance test" mode then it becomes an ohmmeter. thanks

[justtorchit]

O2 sensor?what codes does your light flash? thats where i would start.
sounds like you are just playing the guessing game.

[92xjlaredo]

well i was playing the guessing game hoping id get lucky, the codes vary sometimes it throws a coolant temp sensor, sometimes it throws an o2 sensor...im checking compression across the cylinders tomorrow and see where that gets me i think i may have a stuck valve.

[justtorchit]

well i was playing the guessing game hoping id get lucky, the codes vary sometimes it throws a coolant temp sensor, sometimes it throws an o2 sensor...im checking compression across the cylinders tomorrow and see where that gets me i think i may have a stuck valve.

I'm willing to bet on o2 sensor..... They don't just throw codes for fun

[92xjlaredo]

well ya see theres something funny about the O2 sensor issue....its never not thrown that code at me since ive owned it....the guy before me took the cat out and in doing so removed the downstream o2 sensor completely...but in the year and a half that ive owned it...its never ran this bad. always just a smidge rich. on top of that i replaced the upstream sensor within the past 6-8 months or so. i mean it certainly isnt helping the issue but i doubt that its the whole problem. the reason i havent fixed this is because ive been meaning to utilize the bung thats on there and space it out so it fakes the ecm that the other ones there(giving it half the exhaust)....but all the damn wiring is missing for the secondary o2 sensor maybe its there but just cutoff i dunno....

Edit: compression check across 1-4 was 130, 150, 140, 130....got really dark and started raining so number 5 and 6 are on the agenda tomorrow.

[justtorchit]

well ya see theres something funny about the O2 sensor issue....its never not thrown that code at me since ive owned it....the guy before me took the cat out and in doing so removed the downstream o2 sensor completely...but in the year and a half that ive owned it...its never ran this bad. always just a smidge rich. on top of that i replaced the upstream sensor within the past 6-8 months or so. i mean it certainly isnt helping the issue but i doubt that its the whole problem. the reason i havent fixed this is because ive been meaning to utilize the bung thats on there and space it out so it fakes the ecm that the other ones there(giving it half the exhaust)....but all the damn wiring is missing for the secondary o2 sensor maybe its there but just cutoff i dunno....

Edit: compression check across 1-4 was 130, 150, 140, 130....got really dark and started raining so number 5 and 6 are on the agenda tomorrow.

Fix that. Put a cat on and don't try and "trick" it. Find he harness for the other o2. Put another o2 where it should be. They are more crucial then you think they are. Your upstream o2 could be bad too.

Don't try to find anymore problems until you fixthe ones you have

[Hudson]

I think you have a TON of little problems that have added up to ONE huge problem.

I know it's going to be expensive, but i'd figure out what you know for sure is wrong, and FIX them. Anything you're on the fence about TEST IT. (I hate testing shit too, but it keeps your wallet heavier. Be my guest to guess away it's your money.)

[92xjlaredo]

yeah, well least i have time to tinker with it now cause i dont have to use it every damn day lol thanks gents