Brake bleeding 101

[HeavyMetal]

i need to drive this jeep soon to make sure everything with it is ok before i commit to painting it and all the rest of its mods. if someone was willing to come over and solve this stupid issue i would be willing to pay in either food, beer, or money.

i dont have the time these days to sit outside troubleshooting and guessing for hours on end, especially when its something im not well versed in.

i dont have the tools to pump fluid through the bleeders to the master or i would have after that post...as far as i can tell i have exhausted my limited ability on it and i would prefer to keep it away from a dishonest shop that will overcharge me.

giving it one more try tomorrow

[DizzDizz]

Have a tool that will suck the fluid all the way to the rear end like a 4 dollar whore. But that still might not help u. Plus u need an air compressor.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Have a tool that will suck the fluid all the way to the rear end like a 4 dollar whore. But that still might not help u. Plus u need an air compressor.

Not the hand pump one, I have one and it works well to pull a vacuume and pull the fluid through the line.

[HeavyMetal]

i let it gravity bleed for 30 minutes. i sent about a pint or so of fluid through the system..and the brake light is gone and the jeep is definitely fine enough to drive around, drove it to fairfield with no issues. still no fluid coming out of the rear drum brakes, but i dont really care at this point.

swapping that axle out for a locked 8.25 anyway so hopefully that will remove whatever the issue is in the line, if not i will troubleshoot later

[Lycaon]

reset your proportioning valve, if the front lines were opened at one point and pressure was applied to the system then the proportioning valve will close off the rear port until its reset. at least this is what my latest research has told me considering im dealing with mystery air in my system too. give it a shot?

[Lycaon]

just read through the rest of this and saw ^that^ was already posted. another possibility for the pedal sinking and no leaks is that when the pedal is depressed fully, repeatedly over time for bleeding, it fucks up the piston seals in the master cylinder. so while you may have a solid system, any pressure the master pushes forward down the line is going to bleed slowly backwards past the piston and back into the bore of the master