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setting proper pinion angle

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  • setting proper pinion angle

    This might be a simple question, but has come to my concern.

    I am about to weld on new perches to my d44 rear and want to set my pinion angle correctly. I have a hack-n-tap sye that I am going to be installing also.

    The directions for the hack-n-tap said to cut the output of the t case so that the length between the pinion and were the cut will be made at 33" or something like that, as long as there are 1" of splines left. They also say that it should be done with the weight on the rear axle. This makes sense as the weight will change were the axle sits in relation to the pinion.

    So I'm thinking I'm just going to install the sye without abiding to the 33" measurement because i don't think it will really affect much accept drive shaft length and at my lift height I'm confident in the stock xj front shaft to cover my needs.

    Now with the sye the pinion should be pointing directly at the output. But, I'm worried that since my jeep is up on jack stands that the angle will change once on its own weight. Am I worrying for nothing? Whats the proper way I should do this? I'm going to be at around 4.5" of lift.

  • #2
    put the perches on the axle with the u bolts. Let the jeep down on the wheels, or on jack stands under the axle. Start with the pinion low, then use a floor jack to jack up the pinion.
    Dan.
    2000 XJ, BJ 60 front, welded, 5.13's, 3 link, ruffstuff heims. D70 rear, detroit, 5.13's, discs. stretched. trail ready beadlocks. 39" Red labels. 4:1 Klune V-drive/D20, PSC full hydro

    http://www.facebook.com/people/Dan-M...00000913365979
    www.DMROFFROAD.com

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    • #3
      Originally posted by ct67_72 View Post
      put the perches on the axle with the u bolts. Let the jeep down on the wheels, or on jack stands under the axle. Start with the pinion low, then use a floor jack to jack up the pinion.
      Werd to your mama
      dirty30

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      • #4
        Well the perches are part of a U-bolt eliminator kit so there are no u bolts. Also, the bolt pattern is different so the tires are not on the right rims yet, I could do jack stands though. But that wont help with the no u bolts issue, which means i cant lower it onto its own weight on the axle.

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        • #5
          Just bolt the plates on though. The idea is to have it all together like it would be when its done, just not welded. Since you are not applying any rotational force you can put the weigh of the vehicle on the axle. Just have to be a little more careful since they arent all the way around the axle like a u bolt. But the weight will hold it in place.
          Dan.
          2000 XJ, BJ 60 front, welded, 5.13's, 3 link, ruffstuff heims. D70 rear, detroit, 5.13's, discs. stretched. trail ready beadlocks. 39" Red labels. 4:1 Klune V-drive/D20, PSC full hydro

          http://www.facebook.com/people/Dan-M...00000913365979
          www.DMROFFROAD.com

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          • #6
            ok well ill give it a shot the front axle is out too which is why in nervous about the whole operation.

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            • #7
              You want to point the pinion 1 to 2 degrees down from the driveshaft angle to compensate for axle wrap when under power. And it needs to be done with the weight of the vehicle on the springs.
              www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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