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Well I went through and did a full diagnosis too, I just want to check before I bother ordering another gauge cluster if anything else can cause this since the procedure I looked up is rather vague. Also I've never seen a gauge cluster go bad and I dont think it is a very common issue.
The problem is the gauge always reads well past full, like the needle points directly to the right. It has the cheapo cluster with the idiot lights.
AllData says:
*Turn ignition switch to Run position.
*Disconnect fuel gauge sender connector. Gauge needle should move to E.
It stays on full+, no difference
*Connect a jumper between terminal A on two halves of fuel gauge sender connector. Gauge should move to F. If gauge is operating properly, replace sender.
Gauges moves from full+ position to even more full for like a half second then for some reason decides to change direction and goes back down to about 1/2 tank.
*Measure resistance of sender. If resistance is not between 5-105 ohms, replace sender.
The sender is fine, it was replaced a few weeks ago along with the fuel pump. I didn't own the vehicle then though so I don't know if it worked before.
*Check for an open between sender connector and gauge.
Resistance along the signal wire from the sender to the gauge is less than 0.5 ohms, 0.49v available at the power contact for the sender (Not sure if this is what it is supposed to be since I couldnt find any spec) and a negligible amount of resistance to ground.
I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with the cluster but I dont want to get a new one if there is an easy fix, anyone had this problem before? Is there something besides the cluster that can cause this issue?
The problem is the gauge always reads well past full, like the needle points directly to the right. It has the cheapo cluster with the idiot lights.
AllData says:
*Turn ignition switch to Run position.
*Disconnect fuel gauge sender connector. Gauge needle should move to E.
It stays on full+, no difference
*Connect a jumper between terminal A on two halves of fuel gauge sender connector. Gauge should move to F. If gauge is operating properly, replace sender.
Gauges moves from full+ position to even more full for like a half second then for some reason decides to change direction and goes back down to about 1/2 tank.
*Measure resistance of sender. If resistance is not between 5-105 ohms, replace sender.
The sender is fine, it was replaced a few weeks ago along with the fuel pump. I didn't own the vehicle then though so I don't know if it worked before.
*Check for an open between sender connector and gauge.
Resistance along the signal wire from the sender to the gauge is less than 0.5 ohms, 0.49v available at the power contact for the sender (Not sure if this is what it is supposed to be since I couldnt find any spec) and a negligible amount of resistance to ground.
I'm pretty sure there is something wrong with the cluster but I dont want to get a new one if there is an easy fix, anyone had this problem before? Is there something besides the cluster that can cause this issue?