Wagoneer d44's

[cherokee-at-16]

Ok, so right now I could pick up a pair of wagoneer d44's out of on '88 for $150.00! They have all of the parts, but are completely taken apart. They were going to be built and put into a yj and already have those perches welded on, which isn't a problem. So, I have some questions.

1.Are these a good swap for my d30 and 8.25(29spl)? For 35" tires 37's tops if i ever find some absurdly amazing deal.

2.Could I use the 1 ton steering off of my d30, I read that the wagoneer d44's are not much wider?

3.Since its low pinion, will 4.88 gears still offer good pinion strength?

4. Whats the deal with outer knuckles and brakes and stuff? I have read a lot about ford, Chevy,dodge stuff all being interchangeable?

5.General opinions? is that a good deal? $150 sounds sweet to me. I don't really want to do any work on my lp d30 or to my 8.25 c-clip, even though I already locked the rear. Could I set these up for a reasonable price that wouldn't kill my pocket. Anyone here do gears?

Thanks

[LittleD]

If you pass up on the front 44, i'd be willing to take it just sayin

[clean4drxj]

Yes they're a good and fairly easy swap for stock axles, Just be prepared to drop some coin on mounts and gears+lockers, I think most people run chevy outters because of different braking(i think) and hi steer knuckles
And even though it's a low pinion the R&P are still stronger than that of a hp30.

[cherokee-at-16]

thanks, the way I see it the money is similar whether its for my 30 or this 44. No matter what regearing will cost the same and i have been wanting to do it.

I have read about using Chevy outers to go high steer, but if i could just go over the knuckle using my existing 1 ton setup, that would work for me for now. I have to look into that

[clean4drxj]

I believe the wms is about 1-1.5 inches difference between waggy and xj

[cherokee-at-16]

I believe the wms is about 1-1.5 inches difference between waggy and xj

Yea, I have read mixed info from a d30 being either 60.75" or 61" and the d44 being 61.5. I think my drag link will be fine. I will just have to check my tie rod, Which wont be to expensive to replace. either way I think I might be able to get enough thread engagement.

[Wide-J]

Yes, $150 isn't a bad price but be prepared to spend at least a few bucks to get them into your jeep. They are 6 lug so you will be purchasing new wheels or you can swap it to 5 lug, but you can't go to 5 x 4.5 lug like you have. You can only go to 5 x 5.5 and that is surprisingly expensive and it puts you in a bind for the rear: Dana spindles, Ford Dana 44 rotors, wheel bearings, seals, studs and optional calipers & pads. It will also have slugs so you will most likely want to swap in a set of lockouts. But that's just the front. Redrill the rear? Find a 44 out of a Ford? Its probably easier and cheaper to just get new wheels. Strength wise, they are pretty strong. I had them (technically just the front) in my YJ and it held up to a 360 and 37's. It's definately a good upgrade once you gear them. I think they had 2.70something gears so gearing is a must. So you have a few things to consider now.

[cherokee-at-16]

The front and rear would be the same bolt pattern, cause I would be getting both front and rear. I would just get new rims, probably soft 8's again. lol, can't beat $52.

My only question is what do I NEED to complete these axles, and I don't know how to explain it but I mean like can I run just the regular waggy knuckles and brakes and just tap them for OTK steering, then I could reuse my steering and i wouldn't have to spend the money. I'm not worried about high steer and stuff like that, it can all wait. I know they are going to need gears and seals.

I was also looking at tntcustoms truss and stuff. Seems like a good deal for making this swap supper easy and making the axle strong enough to last anything i try.

For the price I'm deff going to pick these up whether I can put them in right now for not.

[hoggie101]

trying to be like me?

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Heres my 2 cents on this. By your posts I'm guessing you're looking at making a cheap set of axles. Now if it were me, an axle swap isn't exactly where you want to cheap out; its absolutely one of those do it right the first time things. With that said, its going to take some work but it will be a good upgrade. Rebuilding them will cost some cash and gearing is necessary and is frankly not the cheapest upgrade. I forget what I paid for gears but you'll need a ring and pinion, install kit and carrier due to the deeper gear.

I'm not sure what the deal is with the knuckles but I would search on pirate. I can guarantee someone has a write up there for this. If I were you I would kill two birds with one stone and just throw long arms on this thing while the front axle is out. Thats what I did and it made everything so much easier when push came to shove. This way youre only doing the axle once and not pulling it twice once you decide to do long arms. I also upgraded my LCA mounts once it was out. What I'm saying is, do it right the first time if you decide to do it because doing everything at once is way easier then piece mealing an axle together

[cherokee-at-16]

trying to be like me?

One tons were just too much money/work, as I want it streetable. I was going to do something with full widths, like just buying a 77 f150 with a ford 9 and hp44. I actually found a 1979 f350 (60's front and rear) that I was going to buy the whole truck but the guy never responded to me. So last night I came across these and the guy said 150 for both, and I was like "well fuck" so know I really want them...

How are you setting yours up?

[cherokee-at-16]

I'm not sure what the deal is with the knuckles but I would search on pirate. I can guarantee someone has a write up there for this. If I were you I would kill two birds with one stone and just throw long arms on this thing while the front axle is out. Thats what I did and it made everything so much easier when push came to shove. This way youre only doing the axle once and not pulling it twice once you decide to do long arms. I also upgraded my LCA mounts once it was out. What I'm saying is, do it right the first time if you decide to do it because doing everything at once is way easier then piece mealing an axle together

Well I want long arms, but don't have the cash for a new kit. Which is why In the for sale thread I asked about those tnt long arms being sold, I'm all about finding good deals(like these axles). I know it wont be cheap but I think I can make it not be too expensive. Like I don't need high steer right now, and I don't need to change the lug pattern by changing to Chevy or ford knuckles, etc.

The guy said that everything that is there is salvageable/usable. I know I will get some stuff new but im really just focusing on whats wasted cost for me. Like I think spending $600 on the tnt truss and all the brackets would be a good idea. I weld it on and could bolt it in, for the time it saves It makes sense.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Have you seen the axles? the term salvageable seems like only the housing will be good IMO

[cherokee-at-16]

Have you seen the axles? the term salvageable seems like only the housing will be good IMO

no but I've talked to the guy, he was going to build them. I'm really in no rush to put these in, so if they are not in any usable condition, its ok. I'm going to spend money where a have to. I will probably have to wait for summer to do the actual swap anyway cause I'm at school.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Okay, i'm interested to see how the front turns out for my own project