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This is a little breakdown of what it takes to build a comp buggy on a budget. This will follow with my build thread in about a month or two. But for all of you jeep guys that see build threads of buggys and think "Hell I can do that" this is going to be a guide to what kind of stuff you are going to need. Materials, time, tools and prices. No one ever really gives you the true cost of what it takes. People that pay for a buggy to be built can tell you that it took X amount of money. But that is not the purpose of this, this is to tell you what it takes to do it yourself.
Most of you know, some of you don't. But when you plan to build a Jeep, add up all the costs and then times it by 2 or 3.
I am not going to cut corners in this thread when it comes to the build. This virtual buggy is going to be built right because cutting corners costs money in the long run.
Don't dispute this stuff because I have done it many times before. You might have some price differences but this is for education purposes. So many people scrap their Jeep and get way in over their head and find themselves dead in the water, not having a rig to wheel for months or years.
You might have many of these parts or tools already so feel free to subtract them from the total. And remember this is "Do it right on a budget." A junkyard engine with a pile of parts can end up being $10k and have 500hp and built TH400 transmission can be had for well over $5k but that is not the point of this thread.
I will be adding to this post as I get the info. So give it some time.
What it takes = Tools, parts and time.
Tools
Used prices and new.
- 210 MIG Welder (your 110 isn't going to cut it) - $400 to $1200
Hobart 210 $700
- Grinder - $50 to $200
Dewalt for $90
- 1/2" drill - $30 to $150
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW235G-7-8amp-2-Inch-Drill/dp/B00002233E"]Dewart Drill for $100[/ame]
- Sawzall or Port-o-band Saw - $100 to $300
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWM120K-5-Inch-Deep-Portable/dp/B001W0ZIK4/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1317339402&sr=1-2"] Milwaukee Band Saw $275 [/ame]
- JD2 tube bender and 1.75" die - $700
- Welding wire -
- Cut off/Grinding wheels -
- Saw blades -
- Sanding discs -
- Wire wheels -
- Hand tools -
-
-
-
Parts
Drivetrain
- Engine (LQ4 - Chevy 6.0) - $1000 to $2000 - Easy to come by from yards and get the whole engine complete with harness and computer.
- Transmission (TH400) - $100 used from a yard - $800 for rebuild and reverse valve body.
- Transfer case (Atlas 3.0) - We are not cutting corners here with a D300 - $1500 used or $2500 new plus $300 for shifters
- Driveshafts - 1350 - $1000 new - You can build them yourself but if you wonder if you can do it, you probably cant.
Total = $4500 to $7000
Axles - they get their own section because there is that much crap that goes into them
- Front Axle - Ford Dana 60 - $600 to $1200 used
- Gears and rebuild kit (5.38's) - $600
- Locker (Welded to ARB) - $0 to $1200
- Shafts (Yukon 35 spline) - $750 - If you don't buy chromo shafts you are an idiot
- U-joints (Spicer 860) - $100
- Hub Bearings - $100 to $200
- Drive Slugs (35 Spline) - $150 to $200
- Brakes (new rotors, pads and calipers) $200 to $300
- High Steer Arms (not needed but we will put them in) - $0 to $300
- Diff cover - $100 to $200 - The $120 Ruff Stuff cover will last forever. Don't go crazy.
- 1350 Yoke - $120
- Truss and Upper link mounts - $200
- Misc - gear oil, grease, lock-tite, spindle tool rental, etc... $100
Total = $2900 to $5500 (I'm rounding people)
- Rear Axle - Chevy 14 Bolt - $50 to $150 (junkyard)
- Gears and rebuild kit (5.38's) - $500
- Locker (Welded to ARB) - $0 to $1100
- Cover - $120 to $200
- Hub bearings - $100 to $200
- Disc brake conversion - $300
- Truss and Upper link mounts - $200
- Misc - gear oil, grease, lock-tite, spindle tool rental, etc... $100
Total = $1400 to $2700
Chassis
- 300' of 1.75" .120 wall DOM - $1000 to $1500
- 4'x8' of .120 wall sheet aluminum (two pieces) $500 - roof, floors, firewalls
- 4'x8' of .120 wall sheet steel - $250 - mounts and subframe
- 4'x4' of .250 wall sheet steel - $250 - Mounts, gussets and other bracing
- Quick tabs - (x100) - $100 to $150
- Misc tabs (shocks, seats, etc) $100
Total = $2200 to $2800
Shocks
We are going to go with a budget brand but not skimp on what we are going to buy. (Brand FOA)
- Front 14" 2.5" Coilovers with reservoirs, high temp seals and dual rates - $260 times (2) = $520 FOA 2.5" Res Coilovers
- Rear 16" 2.5" Coilovers with reservoirs and high temp seals - $260 times (2) = $530
- Shaft bumps (4) - $15 x 4 = $60 Foam Shaft Bump Stop
- Coil Springs - 2 coils per shock X 4 = (8) - $75 each X 8 = $600 Blue Coil Springs
Total = $1710
I am not even going to throw out prices of Kings or Bilsteins since the budget will go out of the window.
Suspension components
- 7/8" Rod ends (Uppers) (Rod end, misc spacers, jam nuts and tube adapters) - One set = $68 you will need 4 sets - $68 X 4 = $272 7/8" Ruff Stuff Hiems
- 1.25" Rod ends (Lowers) (Rod end, misc spacers, jam nuts and tube adapters) - One set = $125 you will need 4 sets - $125 X 4 = $500 1.25" Ruff Stuff Hiems
- 2.5" 3/8" wall DOM (Lowers) - 12' at $15 a foot = $180 (3' per link X 4 lower links)
- 2" 1/4" wall DOM (Uppers) - 12' at $12 a foot = $144 (3' per link X 4 upper links) - Regardless of 4 link or 3 link and track bar you will have 4 upper links at each end.
- Axle brackets (lowers) - 10 degree brakets(sets of 2) - $35 x 2 sets = $70 Ruff Stuff link brackets
- Axle brackets (Uppers) - See Axles above
Total = $1100
If you want to, you can mess with Johnny Joints but you are going to come out with the same price but a weaker joint. I have run Johnny Joints, Ballistic Joints and Ruff Stuff Hiems. The RS hiems lasted 3 times longer as the others.
Fuel System
Steering System
- PSC double ended steering system (Almost everything you need) - $1410 PSC Double ended system
- Column from the junkyard - $50-100
You can build a single ended ram system from Surpus Center but you are only saving about $300 but you are losing tons of performance. Choose wisely.
$1500
Cooling System
- Radiator (Universal fit - its cheaper) - $150 to $300
- Rad fans (Taurus fan or equivalent) - $30 from the JY to $150 new
- Misc hoses - $50 if you are running a front rad setup or up to $200 if you are running a rear setup
- Clamps - $10 to $100 depending on the clamps you are running (worm gear or T-bolt)
- Coolant - $30 to $100 a front setup will take around 4 gallons and a rear will take another 2 or 3 because of 30 feet of hose/tube.
- Switches - (see interior)
Total = $270 to $850
Interior
Exhaust
Wiring
Misc
Wheels and Tires
- Wheels 17x8 (This size will leave you open to any tire in the future)
- Used steelies = $200
- Used Steel beadlocks = $400
- Build your own new steel beadlocks = $100 a wheel = $400 + $280 for rings + $75 for hardware = $755
- Raceline Monsters = $400 X 4 = $1600
- Tires 38.5 to 42"
- Used set of 38.5" Swamper SX's (80% tread) = $800
- Used set of 39" BFG Krawlers (80% tread) = $1400-1600
- Used set of 42" IROK (80% tread) = $1200 (Because no one wants them for good reason)
- New set of 39" BFG Krawlers = $2400
Total = $1000 to $4000 (this is not counting a spare tire)
That is all for tonight, more to come. In time I will be putting part numbers and links to the parts. This might take a while...
Most of you know, some of you don't. But when you plan to build a Jeep, add up all the costs and then times it by 2 or 3.
I am not going to cut corners in this thread when it comes to the build. This virtual buggy is going to be built right because cutting corners costs money in the long run.
Don't dispute this stuff because I have done it many times before. You might have some price differences but this is for education purposes. So many people scrap their Jeep and get way in over their head and find themselves dead in the water, not having a rig to wheel for months or years.
You might have many of these parts or tools already so feel free to subtract them from the total. And remember this is "Do it right on a budget." A junkyard engine with a pile of parts can end up being $10k and have 500hp and built TH400 transmission can be had for well over $5k but that is not the point of this thread.
I will be adding to this post as I get the info. So give it some time.
What it takes = Tools, parts and time.
Tools
Used prices and new.
- 210 MIG Welder (your 110 isn't going to cut it) - $400 to $1200
Hobart 210 $700
- Grinder - $50 to $200
Dewalt for $90
- 1/2" drill - $30 to $150
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW235G-7-8amp-2-Inch-Drill/dp/B00002233E"]Dewart Drill for $100[/ame]
- Sawzall or Port-o-band Saw - $100 to $300
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWM120K-5-Inch-Deep-Portable/dp/B001W0ZIK4/ref=sr_1_2?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1317339402&sr=1-2"] Milwaukee Band Saw $275 [/ame]
- JD2 tube bender and 1.75" die - $700
- Welding wire -
- Cut off/Grinding wheels -
- Saw blades -
- Sanding discs -
- Wire wheels -
- Hand tools -
-
-
-
Parts
Drivetrain
- Engine (LQ4 - Chevy 6.0) - $1000 to $2000 - Easy to come by from yards and get the whole engine complete with harness and computer.
- Transmission (TH400) - $100 used from a yard - $800 for rebuild and reverse valve body.
- Transfer case (Atlas 3.0) - We are not cutting corners here with a D300 - $1500 used or $2500 new plus $300 for shifters
- Driveshafts - 1350 - $1000 new - You can build them yourself but if you wonder if you can do it, you probably cant.
Total = $4500 to $7000
Axles - they get their own section because there is that much crap that goes into them
- Front Axle - Ford Dana 60 - $600 to $1200 used
- Gears and rebuild kit (5.38's) - $600
- Locker (Welded to ARB) - $0 to $1200
- Shafts (Yukon 35 spline) - $750 - If you don't buy chromo shafts you are an idiot
- U-joints (Spicer 860) - $100
- Hub Bearings - $100 to $200
- Drive Slugs (35 Spline) - $150 to $200
- Brakes (new rotors, pads and calipers) $200 to $300
- High Steer Arms (not needed but we will put them in) - $0 to $300
- Diff cover - $100 to $200 - The $120 Ruff Stuff cover will last forever. Don't go crazy.
- 1350 Yoke - $120
- Truss and Upper link mounts - $200
- Misc - gear oil, grease, lock-tite, spindle tool rental, etc... $100
Total = $2900 to $5500 (I'm rounding people)
- Rear Axle - Chevy 14 Bolt - $50 to $150 (junkyard)
- Gears and rebuild kit (5.38's) - $500
- Locker (Welded to ARB) - $0 to $1100
- Cover - $120 to $200
- Hub bearings - $100 to $200
- Disc brake conversion - $300
- Truss and Upper link mounts - $200
- Misc - gear oil, grease, lock-tite, spindle tool rental, etc... $100
Total = $1400 to $2700
Chassis
- 300' of 1.75" .120 wall DOM - $1000 to $1500
- 4'x8' of .120 wall sheet aluminum (two pieces) $500 - roof, floors, firewalls
- 4'x8' of .120 wall sheet steel - $250 - mounts and subframe
- 4'x4' of .250 wall sheet steel - $250 - Mounts, gussets and other bracing
- Quick tabs - (x100) - $100 to $150
- Misc tabs (shocks, seats, etc) $100
Total = $2200 to $2800
Shocks
We are going to go with a budget brand but not skimp on what we are going to buy. (Brand FOA)
- Front 14" 2.5" Coilovers with reservoirs, high temp seals and dual rates - $260 times (2) = $520 FOA 2.5" Res Coilovers
- Rear 16" 2.5" Coilovers with reservoirs and high temp seals - $260 times (2) = $530
- Shaft bumps (4) - $15 x 4 = $60 Foam Shaft Bump Stop
- Coil Springs - 2 coils per shock X 4 = (8) - $75 each X 8 = $600 Blue Coil Springs
Total = $1710
I am not even going to throw out prices of Kings or Bilsteins since the budget will go out of the window.
Suspension components
- 7/8" Rod ends (Uppers) (Rod end, misc spacers, jam nuts and tube adapters) - One set = $68 you will need 4 sets - $68 X 4 = $272 7/8" Ruff Stuff Hiems
- 1.25" Rod ends (Lowers) (Rod end, misc spacers, jam nuts and tube adapters) - One set = $125 you will need 4 sets - $125 X 4 = $500 1.25" Ruff Stuff Hiems
- 2.5" 3/8" wall DOM (Lowers) - 12' at $15 a foot = $180 (3' per link X 4 lower links)
- 2" 1/4" wall DOM (Uppers) - 12' at $12 a foot = $144 (3' per link X 4 upper links) - Regardless of 4 link or 3 link and track bar you will have 4 upper links at each end.
- Axle brackets (lowers) - 10 degree brakets(sets of 2) - $35 x 2 sets = $70 Ruff Stuff link brackets
- Axle brackets (Uppers) - See Axles above
Total = $1100
If you want to, you can mess with Johnny Joints but you are going to come out with the same price but a weaker joint. I have run Johnny Joints, Ballistic Joints and Ruff Stuff Hiems. The RS hiems lasted 3 times longer as the others.
Fuel System
Steering System
- PSC double ended steering system (Almost everything you need) - $1410 PSC Double ended system
- Column from the junkyard - $50-100
You can build a single ended ram system from Surpus Center but you are only saving about $300 but you are losing tons of performance. Choose wisely.
$1500
Cooling System
- Radiator (Universal fit - its cheaper) - $150 to $300
- Rad fans (Taurus fan or equivalent) - $30 from the JY to $150 new
- Misc hoses - $50 if you are running a front rad setup or up to $200 if you are running a rear setup
- Clamps - $10 to $100 depending on the clamps you are running (worm gear or T-bolt)
- Coolant - $30 to $100 a front setup will take around 4 gallons and a rear will take another 2 or 3 because of 30 feet of hose/tube.
- Switches - (see interior)
Total = $270 to $850
Interior
Exhaust
Wiring
Misc
Wheels and Tires
- Wheels 17x8 (This size will leave you open to any tire in the future)
- Used steelies = $200
- Used Steel beadlocks = $400
- Build your own new steel beadlocks = $100 a wheel = $400 + $280 for rings + $75 for hardware = $755
- Raceline Monsters = $400 X 4 = $1600
- Tires 38.5 to 42"
- Used set of 38.5" Swamper SX's (80% tread) = $800
- Used set of 39" BFG Krawlers (80% tread) = $1400-1600
- Used set of 42" IROK (80% tread) = $1200 (Because no one wants them for good reason)
- New set of 39" BFG Krawlers = $2400
Total = $1000 to $4000 (this is not counting a spare tire)
That is all for tonight, more to come. In time I will be putting part numbers and links to the parts. This might take a while...
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