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possibly building radius arms, need advice..

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  • possibly building radius arms, need advice..

    need some advice..is 3"s to low to run a long arm lift? would i be dragging them all over the place so much that its not worth having them?

    here my plan, IRO makes these brackets for there longarm kits (http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=WSC) which bolt under the stock WJ crossmember then you drill and use nutserts for additional mounting...well i would pretty much copy these and weld them to the frame rail and run my own radius arm setup like clayton...

    IROs arms are actually mounted further forward than claytons so they may be more towards midarms...

    my other question is, when building radius arms, how do you know where to put the lower mount for the UCA on the lower arm? just put it where i think it would fit?
    -Jason
    99WJ 4.0
    IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

  • #2
    Why do you want long arms over short arms????

    Midarms??? long arms are long on purpose, the longer and flatter angle the better. Shorter and more angled down the worse. Shorter the faster the angle changes. get to vertical very bad.

    Why not just buy Clayton arms?

    It's a lot of work to build your own. I don't know what kind of shop you work in. Can you effectively weld 1/4"-3/8".
    How much is just the materials going to cost you from jam nuts to flat stock.
    If you factor in time especially trying to line everything up.
    Do you have a tap to rethread the inserts after you weld them in?

    I know people build their own it isn't impossible just a lot of work and don't save much money.

    ~Justin
    RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
    www.offroadcustomcreations.com

    Sponsors:
    Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts

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    • #3
      Im in the process of building a set of long arms for my xj. I got about 7 feet of DOM tubing for like 70 bucks at logan. I had just enough of my 3/16 box tubing left over from my bumper to build my xmember. The joints thread inserts, and the tabs are going to be about $220 shipped.

      I asked around about where the uppers should attach to the lowers and got mixed opinions, most say to make sure that they will have adjustment and not contact anything while cycling the suspension.
      God made the world in seven days, on the 7th day, he made the Le Car

      Real Jeeps have Unibodys

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      • #4
        I prefer to build my own stuff over buying it but on something like arms and crossmembers thats something you really don't want to do incorrectly. I would rather pay for a clayton kit just to get the piece of mind that his stuff is proven, it works, and its backed by a no bullshit warranty. IMO dishing out just under $1000 is well worth resting on the fact that what you have under there works and is built for whatever you can throw at it. Really the only downside is you're putting money into Zullo's pay check but hey its all about compromise
        I don't always drink orange juice, but when I do, I prefer to chew it. #madpulp

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        • #5
          Originally posted by customcreationsllc View Post
          Why do you want long arms over short arms????

          Midarms??? long arms are long on purpose, the longer and flatter angle the better. Shorter and more angled down the worse. Shorter the faster the angle changes. get to vertical very bad.

          Why not just buy Clayton arms?

          It's a lot of work to build your own. I don't know what kind of shop you work in. Can you effectively weld 1/4"-3/8".
          How much is just the materials going to cost you from jam nuts to flat stock.
          If you factor in time especially trying to line everything up.
          Do you have a tap to rethread the inserts after you weld them in?

          I know people build their own it isn't impossible just a lot of work and don't save much money.

          ~Justin
          the marina i work at has everything i need...yes i have a 220 hobart...materials wont cost much because i can reuse my JJ's from my lowers that i made and i just need the parts for the uppers and some steel...

          building the crossmember/brackets i can do with the jeep as is no disconnecting anything other than maybe the stock crossmember once or twice...then just measure for arm lengths..

          im only at 3"s and my shortarms ride like crap...that would be the reason in running long arms combined with some new longer shocks and i would have a nice setup...

          i think i would save a decent amount of money then going with claytons and it may sound cheesy but i just like making things myself when i have the resources to do so...
          -Jason
          99WJ 4.0
          IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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          • #6
            then go for it.
            Worse thing you put your old crap back in, but I'm sure it will be fine.
            RCrocs #123 Brown CJ-5
            www.offroadcustomcreations.com

            Sponsors:
            Corbeau, Tom Wood, PSC, Polyperformance, Inner Air Lock, Miller Welds, Heavymetal Concepts

            Comment


            • #7
              are midarms usually always a 3link? has anyone ran like midarms in a radius style? or do they just run a 3link or longer lowers and keep stock uppers?
              -Jason
              99WJ 4.0
              IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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              • #8
                I'm not sure if it's possible to run a radius style longarm with it being "mid" but KTM racer might be able to shed some light on this subject.

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                • #9
                  it wouldnt be too smart to do a radius arm midarm

                  the caster change would be pretty intense and there will be lots of binding.


                  sometimes you can't buy what you want. which is buy i built mine.

                  honestly. at 3" i would probably see if you can change the bracketry around on the front axle and make the control arm mounts a little higher. more ground clearance and better control arm angles. about the same amount of work as building a decent longarm system too, if not less. if you bring your upper mounts higher, just make sure they don't contact anything under full bump.
                  www.eatsleepexp.wordpress.com

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                  • #10
                    thats not a bad idea ill look into it..honestly the main reason i want to get some long arms in is for ride quality but the ride really isnt that bad...my RE mono's are probably 4 years old so i guess im due for new shocks...
                    -Jason
                    99WJ 4.0
                    IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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