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control arms hit shock mount...anyone else?

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  • #1

    control arms hit shock mount...anyone else?

    havent been on here in awhile hope that doesnt mean i cant get some help being that JF is useless...i made some lowers couple months back to get rid of the scrap stock ones and at the time i never cycled the suspension to see if they clear everything..

    after rausch in november i noticed i had paint missing on the tops of the arms and it looks like they hit the inner portion of the shock mounts when the axle is just about fully drooped.. got a chance today to jack up the one side with my hilift and they do indeed make contact pretty much right before my shocks fully extended..i want to run longer shocks soon so i need to come up with a solution..cut the inner shock mount out, come up with new shock mounts, or buy arms that have bends in them like IRO or RC i guess...

    heres a pic:

    -Jason
    99WJ 4.0
    IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers
    Tags: None
  • #2
    pretty common as far as I know

    lots of people just clearance that little section and itll net you more room, no need to lop the whole shock mount off, unless the WJ orientation is slightly different
    - Will


    Originally posted by fizzy
    or am asians pants not a read end lol.
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    • #3
      thats nothing compared to how bad mine are:




      but like Will said, most people will just notch a little out so it doesn't contact it
      God made the world in seven days, on the 7th day, he made the Le Car

      Real Jeeps have Unibodys

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      • #4
        random question, is the CV on the driveshaft supposed to be at the bottom? or is there a CV joint at the top and bottom? I know some dubjays require different shafts but i havent seen that.

        97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.

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        • #5
          those control arms are nice dude. did you make those??
          No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


          ForSure Motorsports
          Win or Lose, We Booze.


          Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CumminsJeep View Post
            random question, is the CV on the driveshaft supposed to be at the bottom? or is there a CV joint at the top and bottom? I know some dubjays require different shafts but i havent seen that.
            yea i originally ordered a single/double cardon shaft from carolina a few years back and they sent me a double/double..being that it was beach season i wasnt giving it back and ran with it...its actually pretty quiet for the amount of weight to it and i only have 3" of lift lol definitely not needed..

            Originally posted by JeepBabiiXJ View Post
            those control arms are nice dude. did you make those??
            yea bought the parts between clayton and RE..pretty much copied claytons for less than half the price...( i think you work there no? not trying to start anything)...


            back to the topic i had no idea it was a common issue, but i guess ill just notch it and fold it up some..thanks guys...
            -Jason
            99WJ 4.0
            IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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            • #7
              No no, not at all. My friend steph has a wj she wants to lift and i was going to make her a shortarm kit cause our longarms are alittle over her budget needless to say.

              Just think its cool, have been thinking about it, but never looked into it. saw that and went... wait a second lol....

              yea common issue, just grind em a bit
              No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


              ForSure Motorsports
              Win or Lose, We Booze.


              Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers

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              • #8
                yea i wanted long arms, was thinking about buying the WJ crossmember through clayton since it would save a crap load of time..but i think im too low for long arms and would just be banging them on everything...

                the standard JJ/clevite bushings are fun to try and fit on the WJ stock CA mounts..you need 1/4" spacers on each side of the axle side mounts, and i used 2 9/16 grade 8 spacers on each of the frame side mounts for the johnny joints and that made them nice and snug...what a bitch WJs suck
                -Jason
                99WJ 4.0
                IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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                • #9
                  we sell the spacers if you needed. they're not on the website, but if you call; adam would probably sell you them. We include them in all the longarm kits, just FYI though, seems like you got it figured out.

                  Cool though, deff looks good.
                  No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


                  ForSure Motorsports
                  Win or Lose, We Booze.


                  Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers

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                  • #10
                    maybe you can answer this question for me that i could never figure out...when i first was making the arms, i noticed that only on claytons long arms (or from what i can tell with the pics on the site that its only the long arms and not the short arms) they make the clevite bushing offset and not centered on the arm? i didnt know which way to go so i just centered them i guess i coould have benefited more from making them offset would have giving me some more clearance between the shock mount..
                    -Jason
                    99WJ 4.0
                    IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by LittleD View Post
                      thats nothing compared to how bad mine are:




                      but like Will said, most people will just notch a little out so it doesn't contact it
                      Don't mean to Hijack, but holy fawking hell are those stock control arms on 6" of lift?

                      And Jason, I guess that is why all the Wj short arms I see are bent. I just picked up the RC X-flex kit for mine and they too have the spacers for the control arm mounts mounts. Maybe call RC up and see if they can send you some if you need em?
                      Last edited by Pedro; 01-12-2011, 09:39 PM.
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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by lakailimited06 View Post
                        maybe you can answer this question for me that i could never figure out...when i first was making the arms, i noticed that only on claytons long arms (or from what i can tell with the pics on the site that its only the long arms and not the short arms) they make the clevite bushing offset and not centered on the arm? i didnt know which way to go so i just centered them i guess i coould have benefited more from making them offset would have giving me some more clearance between the shock mount..
                        That's pretty much what that is for, also it makes it so the line from round bushing housing flows right into the tube of the arm. This prevents a protruding knub from underneath the axle mount and helps protect the bushing from taking alot of abuse on rocks etc. We only do it that way on short arms and front long arms. The rear long arms we just center the bushing.
                        No worries, I'm not actually back, I'm just reminiscing about the old days.


                        ForSure Motorsports
                        Win or Lose, We Booze.


                        Vice President of Internal Affairs at Dirty Donny's House of Hookers

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Pedro View Post
                          Don't mean to Hijack, but holy fawking hell are those stock control arms on 6" of lift?

                          And Jason, I guess that is why all the Wj short arms I see are bent. I just picked up the RC X-flex kit for mine and they too have the spacers for the control arm mounts mounts. Maybe call RC up and see if they can send you some if you need em?
                          im good with the LCA spacers i made some out of 1/4"..but yea i realize now all the aftermarket arms have bends in them like RC and IRO...althought RK and JKS are made out of DOM they are straight...even though mine are 2x2 box the DOM would hit in the same spot so i guess some companies didnt work around this problem..

                          Originally posted by JeepBabiiXJ View Post
                          That's pretty much what that is for, also it makes it so the line from round bushing housing flows right into the tube of the arm. This prevents a protruding knub from underneath the axle mount and helps protect the bushing from taking alot of abuse on rocks etc. We only do it that way on short arms and front long arms. The rear long arms we just center the bushing.
                          makes sense, i should have went this route...i can always order new bungs and make new ones but i think for now ill try notching out the shock mounts a bit...
                          -Jason
                          99WJ 4.0
                          IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Pedro View Post
                            Don't mean to Hijack, but holy fawking hell are those stock control arms on 6" of lift?

                            And Jason, I guess that is why all the Wj short arms I see are bent. I just picked up the RC X-flex kit for mine and they too have the spacers for the control arm mounts mounts. Maybe call RC up and see if they can send you some if you need em?
                            No, Re uppers and box'd lowers.... ment for 4.5 inches of lift.
                            /hijack
                            God made the world in seven days, on the 7th day, he made the Le Car

                            Real Jeeps have Unibodys

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                            • #15
                              that is why some arms are bent.

                              This is what I did to stock arms.
                              Plated the bottom and notched out the top. also lowered the shock mount an inch.
                              And took some material off the axle shock mount.

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