school me on diffs

[Burton58]

lol, coming from the guy who bought another XJ only to rarely drive it and get a WJ to drive instead. I just skipped the XJ part altogether

i've been driving the xj. then it broke too

[Bigbike]

be a bad ass, find a old 9 inch rear like the one doug has.

x2.

[SupermanIce-J]

HEY DIZZZZZ. you want a 44??? i has 44.

[DizzDizz]

HEY DIZZZZZ. you want a 44??? i has 44.

it needs some work but belive me i thought about it plus i'm shitfaced so thinking laot bout it

[Bigbike]

it needs some work but belive me i thought about it plus i'm shitfaced so thinking laot bout it

dude just buidl it outside of jeep.

[DizzDizz]

my 8.25 howls like a virgin getting laid for the first time lol

[customcreationsllc]

Check your pinion nut if it came loose it will do that. then check your backlash, you can reset the back lash a lot quicker than changing an axle.

I just put an 8.8 in a guys jeep last weekend. pretty easy.
If you are going to install a SYE then you need to reset your pinion angle anyways to do it correctly without a massive amount of shims I'm not talking about 3º shims you need to cut off the spring perches set the pinion angle and weld them back on. So you're not saving any time there. Just need to weld shock mounts on.
Then you need a drive shaft for a SYE anyways just order one with the 8.8 flange.
Basically no extra work.

8.8 does have disk brakes but they are little disk brakes, disk brake conversion on a 44 is easy and cheap anyways. and little e-brake. you will need to do some custom work on the e-brake cables.

When you go to disk brakes make sure to take out the drum brake check valve O-ring.

I don't like C-clips first if an axle snaps your axle slides right out. If a semi floater press on bearings like an D44 axle snaps the axle shaft will stay in the housing and you can limp out, not drive it home, might still cause damage. If a full floater axle snap, drive it all you want no issues, just remove the broken peices.

You can can buy a c-clip eliminator, for the 8.8 but a few bucks.

The second issue with C-clips is that when you get deep in the gears the gear covers the cross pin hole. you can get a offset cross pin but not strong enough for lockers, or GRIND the gear down until the cross pin fits.

overall gear/axle strength would not bee that much difference.
That is why I prefer a D44 but 8.8 is still a really good axle and plenty of aftermarket support and easier to find.


Why not just bite the bullet and get a D60 rear a little fab work and they will bolt right in. Wouldn't even cost that much more.
Plus in the long run it will be worth more. If you shave a 60 you get about the same clearance as a d44.
I can help you out, it isn't that hard, plus I have plenty of axle housing tubing I would like to getting my money back for..
Just find me any D60 center housing HP or LP what ever you prefer ground clearance or strength, HP probably cost more.

Lots of options.
~Justin

[Zullock Holmes]

I can help you out, it isn't that hard, plus I have plenty of axle housing tubing I would like to getting my money back for..
Just find me any D60 center housing HP or LP what ever you prefer ground clearance or strength, HP probably cost more.

Lots of options.
~Justin

Sooo it was you that bought that 24 ft length of the heaviest piece of DOM known to man hahahahahaha. What's the O.D. on that stuff?? i have a 44 center i wanna get some tubes into. only bad part is i'm guessing it is 3.25" which wouldn't work for me.

[customcreationsllc]

It is 3.125 X 5/16 wall (9.41lbs/ft) so the 24ft tube was 225lbs
Ford D60 use 3.125 X 1/2 wall (14.05lbs/ft)
Ford SD D60 use 3.5 X 1/2 wall (16.06lbs/ft)
I was trying to get 3.125 x 1/4 wall (7.7lbs/ft) but was more expensive different supplier. the 1/4 wall is most spidertrax and aftermarket 9" use unless they go heavy duty 3/8" I would rather add a truss most of the time you need one anyways for steering or suspension.

I made a little spreed sheet for tube OD X Wall and weight per foot.
Like 1.75 X .120 is 2.09 lbs/ft
Anyone know how to post a spread sheet?

If you need 3" I can just turn down the end.
If you need 3.5" I can use the stock D50 tubing and open the ID to make a spacer
So I bout 3.125 figure it would be the most versatile, can make anything work from there.

I have pucks for the carrier bearings and make a puck for the set 20 bearings and a buck for the SD unit bearing. I have stock so could make pucks for whatever bearing spindle I need. I have a precision ground bar stock so if all three are lined up it doesn't matter where the housing tube is.
Trail gear make an axle housing with offset tubes for ground clearance, hell you can make one out of box tubing if you really wanted to save money.



I'll still make small inner sleeves to make it easier to weld.

I also have an idea to make a oil dam just inside the outer bearings probably use an exhaust flange. Keep from starving the bearings.

Let me know when you are doing your axle.

The D44 I have uses 3"tubes well by tape measure no micrometer.

~Justin

[Zullock Holmes]

Well the 44 isn't for me, so that's just a matter of when either i decide to do something with it or find someone to buy it. It's alot easier to sell a complete axle then 15 pieces. lol.

I'm narrowing my chevy 60 atm, but if i can find a hp 60 centersection for cheap then i'm gonna come knocking. I can get one through Solid for 800 or a currie rockjock for about the same, but that just seems like alot of extra cash for a high pinion front. Idk what i'm doin yet. lol.

[DizzDizz]

That would be awesome Justin I was actually gonna give u a call to point me in the right direction. U comin to the meet and greet?

[customcreationsllc]

I would like to go but probably wont make the M&G I'll see how much I can get done Friday and Saturday, I've got a couple repair jobs and the holidays are coming fast I.

But as far as the rear.
It is still going to cost some money but nothing crazy over a built 44 or 8.8 and I think it would be worth it.

You can buy chromoly XJ/TJ rear axle in 30, 33, and 35 spline, all the same price.
They are drilled both 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5 so you can run either pattern.
With a D60 it will end up being about 2" wider. not a big deal.

Don't quote me on the prices.
So just find any junk D60 housing, cut the ends off weld on Set20 flanges about $100, bearing retainers about $40 and wheel studs. You will probably need a new pinion yoke unless you want a combo u-joint.

Brakes use the GM metric calipers the weld on brake caliper brackets $10 each, calipers like $30 each with core, rotor use your front rotor if 5 on 4.5, 5 on 5.5 Dodge 1500 late 90's but you will need to machine a spacer to center the rotor, and the rotors are too fat so I would just sand down the brake pad about a 1/16" its not like you will wear through the rear pads they will be the same size as the front. You can also machine the rotor thinner if you really like.

You can 8.8 brakes if you want to run little calipers with the drum E-brake but I think that is going backwards.

I would keep it 5 on 4.5 for now and when you upgrade the front axle you will need to go to 5 on 5.5 and just switch around the rear then.

Your not talking about a lot of money in the large scheme of things.
But no where near the price of a stock 8.8

Then later build a SD D50 front axle by that time they will have 35 spline lockers, not as strong as a 60 but you will be the same as D60 from the inner axles out just not the ring and pinion.
And those can be machined to 5 on 5.5 and you can find them at a reasonable price.

If you look hard enough you can find Kingpin D60 at good prices seen them around $400.
King pin is easy for High steer.
You can get or machine 5 on 5.5 hubs on them too. they just weigh 100lbs more than a SD D50.

~Justin

[DizzDizz]

How the hell did u get so smart bro.

[customcreationsllc]

Google



Most of what you need to know has already been done and with the internet most people are nice enough to share.

It has nothing to do with being smart it is just a desire to know.
If you really want to know you will figure it out.
Just don't be afraid to try, it is just money you can always make more.

Hell I didn't know you cannot install the 8.8 cross pin with deep gears until I couldn't get it together. You figure it out.

When I saw that they offer a 35 spline shaft for the TJ it got me thinking will it fit in a D60 and I e-mailed TenFactory and they said all dana splines are the same.
When I bought the shaft I realized it came with both 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5 I asked they all come like that and yes.
It snowball once you learn a little it is easier to figure out how other stuff works.


The AX-15 to Ecotec was by luck someone else figured it out I just saw the link. I was searching transmission swaps.

I was working on a SAAB the other day and realized they have electric hydro brake booster.
So my next project is to get one my boss said he might have a spare one kicking around.
How nice would that be, electric brake booster no need for the engine to run for the booster to work, no vacuum, no power steering pump.
Self contained little electric pump that fill an accumulator.
I tried searching Google, pirate couldn't find anything on it.
I don't know what piston sizes it use or what other master will bolt up.

I'll probably put it in my baby buggy.
I also want to do electric power steering for that.

Then it got me thinking I might be able to make a backup system for my race buggy.
Just plumb the engine pump and the electric pump in a Y with check valves if the engine pump dies in the race just flip the switch to electric pump. Not as good but I can finish the race. or get off the trail.
Also you can bypass the engine pump with a shorter belt, so I'll carry a spare belt and spare alternator.
I like redundancy.


I don't know why, I just find it fun/ challenging, makes me want to know more.
There is still a lot of crap I don't know.
~Justin

[Henchman]

Ps I have 4.10s for front and rear sitting in a box 30 and 8.8