Building TC skid

[lakailimited06]

alright this is the POS stock TC skid im running with right now i dont even know how thick it is but its mounted on one side of the frame rail with these nutsert things that you crush into the holes so they expand and you can bolt into...

the other side is bolted to the crossmember:





i dont have enough coin for a bumper right now that going to be a summer project to i want to maybe make this before i go to rausch in June..want to make it out of 1/4" but i dont know how i want to mount it..i can reuse those 2 mounts on the one side of the rail but on the other side what do you guys think?

i was thinking drilling a hole through the rail, welding a nut to a piece of 1/4" and welding that to the frame rail...then just bolt the skid on but im not sure if thats the smartest way..

i just wasnt sure how good it is to drill holes in the frame rails/weld to the frame rails..

heres IROs 1/4" TC/cat skid im basically going to try and mimic:

[customcreationsllc]

I made a jig to rotate the transfer cases up so you can put a completely flat skid on from frame rail to frame rail.
The tail housing T-case holes are rotated down on the XJ and up on the YJ the jig I made just helps you pilot the holes into the YJ position you gain like 2 inches of ground clearance for 15 min of work after you take the T-case off.

If you want to go higher than that you need to modify the tail housing fill the ribs with weld. (That is what I did for my CJ)

If the XJ is lifted there is no problems if it is not lifted the front drive shaft hits the 4wd shifter and the body but really easy to make room. The 4wd shifter just cut off the lowest of the 4 mounting legs and a hammer to the tranny tunnel you need about 1".

Couple extra inches of ground clearance is always nice.

[polarman]

I made a jig to rotate the transfer cases up so you can put a completely flat skid on from frame rail to frame rail.

Do you have any pics of this mod? I read that like 3 times, and I'm not really following what you're saying. Are you clocking the entire t-case?


Original post.....
Nutserts are alot stronger than you think. If you can think of anyone that works in maintenance/fab that has a nutsert tool and nutserts bigger than 1/4-20, I bet it would hold.

[customcreationsllc]

Sorry just saw the post

This is the Link Sam posted basically the same thing I do
I just made a jig from an old T-case.

http://www.bsfab.net/?p=23

Takes about 15min once you get the T-case out.
The front drive shaft is a little higher you might need to massage the floor and cut off part of the 4wd shifter bracket. The linkages still works and everything.

[polarman]

Thanks for the info!

[LittleD]

so pretty much, make a mark 5/8's from the original holes and drill? the tube jig is to keep every thing lined up?

[JeepinJoshua]

so pretty much, make a mark 5/8's from the original holes and drill? the tube jig is to keep every thing lined up?

Why does it matter after reading some of your hodge podge posts i think that this is way too advanced for you to even try.

Cheers

[LittleD]

Why does it matter after reading some of your hodge podge posts i think that this is way too advanced for you to even try.

Cheers

im not gonna, dont wanna have to worry about the driveshaft angle being changed

[lakailimited06]

i actually started making this yesterday finally, i ended up going this route similar to this fella:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=754151

crossmember is being made out of 2x3 1/8" angles mounts to unibody are 2x2 3/16" and the main belly part is 3/16"...only about 2 hours into it have the belly cut how i want it drilled and tapped holes into my existing crossmember just have to start building the 2nd one...

[customcreationsllc]

The rear drive shaft doesn't move when you clock the T-case and the front still fits it only moves up an 1-2" I drove 80mph after with no vibes.

gobigorgohome your Correct just mark the holes about 5/8 from the others, the jig just helps you keep everything lined up. The first one I did all by eye. Now I made a jig from an old T-case, so it is quicker and everything comes out perfect.

The T-case to tranny bolts are only used the hold the 2 cases together the friction is what holds the torque and the T-case input bearing housing inserts into the tranny tail shaft housing to align the 2 cases so the holes don't have to be perfect.
Another note CJ's only use 5 out of the 6 bolts.

You might need to adjust the shifter I haven't need to yet, and massage the floor a little.

I the YJ's trannys are already clocked.