welding tube inserts

[Even]

To the DOM for my steering.

Parts of the inserts are pretty damn thin and i don't wanna eff them all up by blowing through them with my arc welder. Does about 50-60 amps sound like a good plan?

[Fuzzy Wuzzy]

sounds like alot.

[CSaddict]

50 amps is barely enough to do exhaust tubing. I TIG'd mine in the 175 range.

[customcreationsllc]

that is why I use 3/16 wall tubing not 1/4, so inserts aren't crazy thin.
Then I drill holes plug weld them and seam weld them.

I always run a tap back through after welding, it always deforms the thread a little.

As far as the amperage sorry I cannot help you there I don't arc weld.

[Fuzzy Wuzzy]

that is why I use 3/16 wall tubing not 1/4, so inserts aren't crazy thin.
Then I drill holes plug weld them and seam weld them.

I always run a tap back through after welding, it always deforms the thread a little.

As far as the amperage sorry I cannot help you there I don't arc weld.

I left the rod ends in the inserts for just that reason

[customcreationsllc]

Can you get the TRE out?
I've learned my lesson about leaving nuts or bolts on when welding.
Never ground through the threads it will arc across the threads and weld the 2 together.

[Even]

hrmmm....any more insight on this?

[Zullock Holmes]

according to miller. 140 amps for 3/16 with mulitple passes. and 160 amps for 1/4 with multiple passes.

grind the ends of the DOM down alittle bit at a 45 degree angle, then leave about a 1/16-1/8 gap when you slide the insert in. and simply weld there. that way you can probably use 130-140 and be fine with probably one pass all the way around. don't go around it non-stop though, too much heat and you can damage the threads. and leaving the tie-rod ends in should be fine.

i don't know if thats a good way to explain it, its much easier to show it.

[Even]

according to miller. 140 amps for 3/16 with mulitple passes. and 160 amps for 1/4 with multiple passes.

grind the ends of the DOM down alittle bit at a 45 degree angle, then leave about a 1/16-1/8 gap when you slide the insert in. and simply weld there. that way you can probably use 130-140 and be fine with probably one pass all the way around. don't go around it non-stop though, too much heat and you can damage the threads. and leaving the tie-rod ends in should be fine.

i don't know if thats a good way to explain it, its much easier to show it.

That's actually a really good idea, i thought about sliding the tube inserts in really close and welding like that already, but griding down the tubing is a good suggestion.

I'm probably going to leave the TRE's out, i don't wanna end up with weld splattering all over the threads.

[Zullock Holmes]

I'm probably going to leave the TRE's out, i don't wanna end up with weld splattering all over the threads.

if you have a welding glove, slide it down over the TRE, that should protect the threads

[Even]

Yea i could do that, but what is the point of leaving them in anyways?

[Zullock Holmes]

so the threads dont get tweaked around when you weld it. its rare, but its just a precaution.

[CSaddict]

If you heat it enough to damage the threads of the tie rod end you clearly shouldn't be welding it. You will overheat the insert and have a huge heat effect zone and will make the metal brittle.

[Ktmracer419]

ive seen inserts pull from the tubing from GOOD welders usin blingin machines (timmay)

since then i have always drilled a hole in the tubing and plug welded them in as well as at the seam.

just about everything i weld is using my 140 amp hobart mig at the highest setting

[Fuzzy Wuzzy]

turn it down to 10 amps.. that's good. just go slow. also, I wouldn't ground on the TRE, that's be silly. and yea it does thread out, also checked before installation