The HeavyMetal Project

[HeavyMetal]

thats teh idea

[Zullock Holmes]

yea the only problem is, idk how big they make those countersunk ones and if they make them in grade 8 as well.

I'm sure we could figure out a mounting plate that uses more than 4 of those and has studs for the winch though. Wouldn't be too complicated.

[crosbike]

yea the only problem is, idk how big they make those countersunk ones and if they make them in grade 8 as well.

I'm sure we could figure out a mounting plate that uses more than 4 of those and has studs for the winch though. Wouldn't be too complicated.

thats the only thing i couldn't find either. i did find 12.9 12mm by xx lengths at fastenal.

[HitItWithSomeSpeed]

Make a subframe behind the face of the bumper so you can use the required hardware, make a cover plate that sits flush and countersink hardware into that so that the face of the bumper is smooth. you would need another inch of space to make something like that work, but it wouldnt be too hard to do.

This is also good, because when you counter sink you get rid of material, so im not sure how that effects strength.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

Double nut it, put in lathe head out and taper?

[HeavyMetal]

Double nut it, put in lathe head out and taper?

hmm, forgot we had a lathe to use. seems like this would make sense

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

hmm, forgot we had a lathe to use. seems like this would make sense

I'm sure Phil can taper, I dont remember if his shop had the attachment or not

[ne14dbn]

thanks boss for 4x4 101 , but cherokees (and everything) have been mounting winches base-down also for millennia with no issues.

if i go base forward, crosby mentioned the possibility of flat face allen head bolts last night (wish i thought of that), i just need to find shit strong enough, which i havent looked for yet

That would be clean. Just stay away from the stainless ones, they are too soft.

[HeavyMetal]

good to know, ive never messed much with that stuff

[Zullock Holmes]

Make a subframe behind the face of the bumper so you can use the required hardware, make a cover plate that sits flush and countersink hardware into that so that the face of the bumper is smooth. you would need another inch of space to make something like that work, but it wouldnt be too hard to do.

This is also good, because when you counter sink you get rid of material, so im not sure how that effects strength.

That's the way i'd do it.

if there is a large shear stress (force applied perpendicularly to the body of the fastener) on the countersunk fasteners then yes they are weaker than using standard bolt.

As long as the majority of the forces these bolts will see are normal stresses (compression/tension) then they will be fine. In this case, the surface area actually increases when countersinking.

As long as you can find grade 8 stuff and you put the fairlead on the mounting plate itself so that the forces are applied properly when you use the winch, i see no issue with it.

[Buffalo Phil]

I'm sure Phil can taper, I dont remember if his shop had the attachment or not

We have a taper attachment on the smaller machine.

Also, if you're worried about strength, the nuts on the bottom of my bumper holding the winch down are welded to the bumper. Could also do a few spots for extra reinforcement.

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

If your wanted to use cap screws it might be a better idea to counter bore them instead of counter sink because the taper will cut into the recess where the allen bit goes.

[Zullock Holmes]

God, just buy them....





Pictures for ease.

[HeavyMetal]

i know what the fawkin product looks like............

you got a link to the proper rated stuff?

[ninetysix-ex-jay]

God, just buy them....





Pictures for ease.

yeah because thats not a #10 or anything. Those work well holding up dome lights maybe