God damn I wish my Jeep was still around..... If somebody didnt roll it....
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Project: Rebuilt
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P8R
2012 Honda Accord - For DD/MPG Porpoises - Cooper Tire: Count on Cooper
2014 Granite Crystal WK2 Limited - Nitto Tire: Fueled by Enthusiasts
Poontang Pro 300EX 42" - For lawn porpoises
OG KOT #4736 Semper Sky Rock Racing/Standardbred Racing Designs 15.5 HP Turbo-Cool Craftsman, 6 Spd w/ crawl box, fat turf treads, Custom paint, and a red onzie
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Originally posted by CumminsJeep View Postyou were drunk when you said this werent you.....P8R
2012 Honda Accord - For DD/MPG Porpoises - Cooper Tire: Count on Cooper
2014 Granite Crystal WK2 Limited - Nitto Tire: Fueled by Enthusiasts
Poontang Pro 300EX 42" - For lawn porpoises
OG KOT #4736 Semper Sky Rock Racing/Standardbred Racing Designs 15.5 HP Turbo-Cool Craftsman, 6 Spd w/ crawl box, fat turf treads, Custom paint, and a red onzie
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Originally posted by Pedro View Postyes absolutely hammered.... I dont even remember typing it last night
Also that kit looks pretty beefy.1993 XJ sport 3.5" rustys 33" MTZ's armored.
1999 sierra
1967 M725 Big and Slow
-Dan
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As of now Im happy where this thing is. Since Im going to be getting new tires probably end of winter/early spring, I dont know whether I want to go 35s and keep it open front or 33s and lock the front. 35s would be sique nasty but I would really like gears before I go that route. and by the time the next set of tires is worn out, this thing will most likely be getting bigger axles anyway and I would have a different DD. 33s seem like the better choice. I guess I kinda just answered my question haha.
97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.
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If gears are your worries i would say just keep 33's i mean they work fine, 33's locked front would be the same if not better than 35's open front.... you'd have a little more clearance with 35's but still not a big deal its only an inch at full street pressures, id say go for the 33's unless you get a screaming deal on 35's
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Originally posted by CumminsJeep View PostAs of now Im happy where this thing is. Since Im going to be getting new tires probably end of winter/early spring, I dont know whether I want to go 35s and keep it open front or 33s and lock the front. 35s would be sique nasty but I would really like gears before I go that route. and by the time the next set of tires is worn out, this thing will most likely be getting bigger axles anyway and I would have a different DD. 33s seem like the better choice. I guess I kinda just answered my question haha.
yo plans sounds sique yo.2013 F150 fx4 (Tow Pig/DD)- 5.0 with the 3.73 option
2003 TJ Rubicon- 4.0/42rle/np241or
- 5.13's
- 3" Savvy/Currie suspension with acos
- 33” BFG KO2s
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I like the way phils jeep is set up. mine will be the same just with long arms. but his is just basic susp lift locked f/r with skids and bumpers. Bam, simple. The only thing I have seen him break is D30 U-joints but I have no problem changing one out and bringing spares. a broken U joint isnt going to keep me from getting home.
But as for my next concern, I need to get rid of those fawkin blocks.
97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.
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Originally posted by CumminsJeep View Post
But as for my next concern, I need to get rid of those fawkin blocks.
x2
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^^^^^^ BAM. I think thats a part of what is causing my hoping around slow turns in parking lots. I think its a combo of severe axle wrap cause of the locker and shitty ass rustys long arms and their shot bushings and joints. ill see what happens when i put the new arms in. but as of now, Im replacing those leafs before i get a front locker
97 TJ that I think is pretty neat.
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