XJ Lift Parts.

[HeavyMetal]

wheelspacers dont add any additional stress onto the bearings compared to what an equally backspaced wheel would

anyone that tells you otherwise doesnt know what theyre talking about

ive had spacers forever, like literally since before the dinosaurs

[Ruepart Hoaxley]

Dinosaurs didn't exist, it's an atheist plot.


Sent from my pay phone in Chechnya

[hippie metal]

Ill say a few quick things. Don't go to 6.5" its unnecessary. I run Wj knuckles with offset tre's and 15's with 1" spacers and its perfect

X3

[Hudson]

Alright let me make a few things a little bit more clear so everyone isn't trying to guess what i'm doing.

I don't really want 6.5" lift. I just want more flex. I built custom shackle relocation brackets and i plan on buying rustys .75" extendable shackle. I figure at the bare minimum i will gain at least 2" of lift doing this. I don't really want more lift, but i don't see a way to get more flex with leafs without doing this. (inb4 coilovers in the rear.)

I just bought two new (to me) axles.

Front is a standard HP D30. Has 4.56 gears, aussie locker, alloy shafts, solid diff cover, and WJ knuckles (plus the welded on spacer), 99+ XJ/TJ unit bearings, & at least the lower WJ ball joints, High steer setup, and a RE Straight track bar.

Rear is a D44 out of a 87-89 XJ with a towing package. Has 4.56 gears, and and aussie locker. Drum brakes on it are shot so i'm haggling Robin Fairchild without success to sell me his ZJ backing plates.

The only thing i'm weary about is the front axle. It just doesn't look right to me and i've never even seen one of these setup before. It doesn't have a stock trackbar mount, and i don't think the steering is quite right.

With the current setup the tie rod hits the diff before the knuckles get to full turn.

I think i should just replace the tie rod and drag link as i don't think they're right. I just need to figure out what to replace it with.

As for disc brakes on the XJ 44 rear the ZJ bolt patterns don't line up with the 44. The top two i can slot out, but the bottom two are pretty far off and i don't want to slot them that far. I want to weld them shut and redrill it out.

I've heard i need a 03-06 Rubicon retainers as they 'have the spaced formed in them already'. Not sure what that means, but that's what i've been told.

tldr;

What the hell do i need to get my tie rod to go from lock to lock without hitting the diff cover? I need like a list or else i'll go full retard.

I think i need this;

- Offset TREs (anyone have a link?)
- 1" Wheel Spacers

correct? Oh, and how do i figure out how long my drag link needs to be?

Oh, and one of the WJ caliper mounting brackets is stripped. I'm going to buy a new one, but i've read i need a teves or something like that?

[Burton58]

Ruffstuff has the offset ends and you don't need more flex, just wheel it

[Ruepart Hoaxley]

You can't use the factory track bar with the WJ steering anyway. You need to go over-the-axle with it to keep the drag link and the track bar parallel.

As to the flex? Make it droop more. Lift =/= flex, good suspension setup = flex.

[Hudson]

If i buy this is this everything i'll need for the tie-rod?

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...Category_Code=

I figure since my center to center measurement is 52 1/2" and that kit comes with 54" of DOM tubing that i'm going to have to cut it down. Is it really that easy or am i missing something?

I'd insert the TREs, measure center to center, and then subtract the difference between that number and 52 1/2" and i'd whack that number off the DOM tube and it'd be perfect correct?

Then i'd put the Hex head weld bungs into the DOM and weld them into place. Does that sound correct?

After that dilemma i'd have to figure out the drag link lenght. Is there a way to calculate that?

[HeavyMetal]

[Burton58]

That's the one I have. I got the whole kit from them with the tie rod, Trac bar and drag link

[Hudson]

Did i forget to mention that i was retarded?

That's the one I have. I got the whole kit from them with the tie rod, Trac bar and drag link

Thank you. Going to place an order now.

[sardo_67]

oh shit that offset TRE kit is back!
i thought those steering links looked familiar.

i'd still suggest you just replace the heims and run it, the axle only loses like 4* of turning the way it was when i had it. tackle one thing at a time, getting the D30 INTO the jeep and driving.... then perfect and tweak the steering. when you change 50 things at once and something isn't working you have more shit to go through to fix it.

the RE kit i had on the jeep flexed pretty good and i didn't even mess with it all that much


also i was pretty fucked up when you at my place picking up the axles so my bad if i was kinda rambling on about jeep shit, i thought i was making sense. hahaha

[Hudson]

Alright a few questions.

Decided fuck it, i'm going to run this how it is and see what the fuck happens.

Going to 35s. BFG KM2 35x12.5x15s.

Should i buy wheel spacers and just run my 15" rims or go to 16s (kind of don't want to as they're super expensive and i already have 15s on my current 32s.) Or should i be fine?

My backspacing is 3.75" (not 4.75").

[sardo_67]

bolt a wheel up to that D30 now while its on the ground and see if it fits

[Hudson]

bolt a wheel up to that D30 now while its on the ground and see if it fits

I think that's what i'm going to have to do.

My only problem is that the 30 is totally stripped right now. Going to have to put it back together before i can do that. Have all the parts on order right now.

Seals, bearings, etc etc. Getting this train a' movin.

[sardo_67]

just put the knuckles together then, unit bearing and shaft with brake caliper bolted on with the disc, see if your 15s clear all that shit.

all you have to do is see if those 15s hit anything on there, that axle had 15s on it